MC1of80

Sounds like the bushing inside the tailhousing has gone bad. Have you taken out driveshaft? What does the yolk look like? Do you have a short yolk or a long? U joints ok?

Hi. Mine was a resistor problem.

Congrats!!! Looks good! Reminds me of the old school "Daisy" style rims.

Congrats!!!!! Nice looking Monte! The "stepped" fenders are 71-72.

The VIN and Halo top say 70. Everything else from what described is 71. I'm thinking like Canuck, a 70 shell was used as a done for a possible 71 SS. Keep us posted of your findings and welcome to the club!!

There are a few other differences but the quickest and easiest way to identify which years is where they meet the fenders.

Quick and easy answer, the 70 is flat where it meets the fenders and the 71-72 has the "step". Lol good trivia! More!!!

You are very welcome. That's what we are all here for,... To help eachother. Glad what little I know was able to help you!

X2! Lol

If I am remembering correctly the wire from the posiibattery terminal to the distribution block is a type of fusable link. I hope that is the problem. Good luck again!

What year Monte? If 70, check the wires and power distribution block on the radiator support by the battery. I have had these connections give the problem you are describing. Good luck!

Thank you Aaron! I was not able to make it this year. ☹️ The video is great! Thank you again!!!

All good. That's what we are here for, to help eachother. If you want to stay with the valve covers you already have, a smaller brake booster may be an option. So is a hydro boost system. Pricey from what I have heard.

What are you asking? Even with aluminum heads you will have the same issue. Are the valve covers stock? Aftermarket? Tall? With my big block I installed a 9" brake booster. No issues what so ever. They also make stock style valve covers with a "booster cut" in them for the left side. I have seen them on the SS396.com website. Hope this helps.

X2 to what Mr Peters has said. I personally installed the Chevelle repro steel fenderwell in my SS. On an interesting tidbit, some 70 Chevelle's came with one plastic and one metal inner fenderwell. The plastic on was usually the right one, under the battery.

Depending how bad it is. Looks like once you dig into it it may be a can of worms. Lol. Most likely the "Chevelle" repair panel is what you will use depending on if the window channel is rotted or not and of course how your fabricating skills are.

On the quarter itself or the panel between the quarters, rear window and trunk? Again I would use a piece of the quarter skins to make a patch

Yes. Fenderwell and wheelwell were meant as the same. There is a company that makes the rear window channel and plates where you are describing is rotted by the back window corners.they are made for a Chevelle buy with slight "flattening out" they work with our Montes.

From the looks of the pics, I would say that I would buy the outer skins and just patch where needed. Unless the inner fenderwell lip is totally rotted where it meets the outer panel, I would use the unused portions of the quarter skin to patch the fenderwell also. Just my opinion by what I can see in the pics.

Cool!!! Thank you for sharing!

For rot on the outer "skin" panel, yes. For rot on the outer wheelwell, no. You could weld a piece to it or replace the outer well. We just did both ways to my brothers 72. One side we cut out the rot and added pieces the other we replaced the whole outer wkeelwell, which we feel was quicker and easier. Another option is to purchase an outer well and cut it up for what you need. When I say outer wheelwell, I'm referring to the outer part of the fender well. Between the quarter panel and inner wheelwell that attaches to the trunk area. Lolol (just in case)

Hi MonteMack! Where is local? Lol I have used both types of panels successfully. Depends on how much you wish to repair. For a full quarter, AMD all the way. If you are using the skins to cut up and do spot repairs then the skins. I have used the full skins. Just more body work to do. As opposed to more initial work for the full AMD quarters but less actual bodywork. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Glad you found it! I bet it runs alot better now and stops better too! Nice job!!

X2- silicone, either black or clear on the intake ends and liquid thread sealer on the bolts. The bolts not sealed can cause the dreaded oil through the bolt leak and I have found a few having a vacuum leak through bolts that were not sealed.

The 70 has a vented gas cap. Check and see if you indeed have a vented cap. Somewhere along the line someone probably, most likely changed it. If it is vented, I would get a new vented cap. Good luck!