Scott S.

The steering box out of a gmc pick up doesn't align with the steering arm of the Monte Carlos. (the flat spot on the gear isn't the same.) Which is probably why you had issues with resistance. But that many turns (lock to lock) is worse than manual steering. I'd take it back... The steering boxes from Jeep Grand Cherokees (late 90's) are a bolt in, provided you get the metric hose thread conversion kit. There's tons of articles that can help you find the right one. (12.7:1 ratios) Best of luck.

I'm thinking my tires are probably a bit on the "vintage" side. lol I've always run Bridgestones on my '04, and have gotten lots of life out of them. But sadly, they don't make anything in the "classic" sizes. On another note, I did some more digging on the origin of Montelishi, and she is a Flint built car. So I'm still at a loss on the I.D. plate above the brake booster. All the tags look untampered. Not sure what to make of it.

Retro manufacturing and Muscle Cars and Classics both carry something that should work for you.

There's not a lot of room behind the kick panels, so your best bet is to find a good slim mount speaker with a "directional" cover, or there is a molded kick panel that goes over the originals. Not sure who makes them, but they look like the easiest way with the least amount of cutting.

So other than the lettering issue, which seem to be a better handling tire ??? My lettering comes pretty clean when I used one of those plastic dish pads and a little dish soap. (BFs)

How do you like the Cooper tires compared to the Goodrich ?? I get varying opinions on both. Love the colour.....

Tons of these steering boxes at Pick n Pull. Seams they all got retired at the same time. lol Just be sure to check the code on the component body to make sure you get the 12.7 to 1 model. I found that tube compression fittings worked well to hook the lines up without taking everything apart.

An 8.2 " differential doesn't have the two "block tabs" on the bottom of the carrier housing. 8.5"/8.6" do. Chevdiy.com has a good article on I.D.ing things. As for going to a 700r from a th400, PATC has a step by step procedure. It involves shortening the driveshaft, changing the input yoke, changing the cross member, plus all the linkage revisions. It'll give you better mileage, plus the overdrive on the highway will keep the rpm's down.

Quick,Cheap,Perfect..... Pick any two.

Yes, changing to a 3.08 gear requires a "type 3" carrier. (3.08-3.73) And depending on the differential, (8.2"), it may just be easier to go to the 12 bolt. 8.2" parts are getting hard to find. If you've got the 8.5"/8.6", you'll have better luck finding parts. I've heard some good things about Edelbrock's carb bodied fuel injection systems.... Any thoughts ??

Are you using a modern "digital" stereo ?? If so, they require a full time battery connection as well as an ignition connection, to keep the clock and tuner set. If these leads get crossed, then you'll have to reset all those functions every time to start the car. Or if one of the leads isn't even connected, you may not be getting power to your stereo. ie. Ignition to battery lead and no power to ignition lead. As for factory radios, that's a completely independent circuit. One thing I have found with G.M. ignition switches is that over time, the "turned back" position on the key tends to fail. Not sure if it's just a worn out point in the switch, or dirt build up that isolates the point.

No, not something meant for highway trips. lol !!

It's usually a full time power feed to options over the base model. ie. lighter, stereo, horn.... or anything that operates when the ignition is turned off.

I've been working through the same process with mine. ('70) The 350 is set up with a similar Edelbrock kit (1405 series carb) I personally went with the 200r4 transmission..... Easier to switch than the 700 and has a wider gear separation. Still have the 10 bolt/2.73 rear end. It's fantastic on the highway. 1750 rpm at about 60 mph, and when I step into it with the engine the way it is, She'll grab 2nd gear and take off like a rocket !! I'm planning to put a 12 bolt/3.31 rear end in this fall, should make it more "streetable".... The 2.73 just doesn't twist up fast enough off the light. But with the 0.67 to 1 overdrive, the highway mileage shouldn't suffer to much. These "newer" transmissions are actually nice in the gas consumption department.

Montelishi's still in the shop anyways, but I'm sure once she's out, I'll run into (lol) some of these people somewhere. Good to see there are more out there.

Cool !!!! Sorry I missed it.

Does a rebuilt 12 bolt on the back deck count ??? lol

Just out of curiosity, what are you running for rear gears ???? If you're using 2.73 in a 10 bolt, no amount of horsepower is going to make your Monte go quicker. (Faster, yes. But only on the highway) Plus, what transmission set up do you have ?? Is it a "factory" th350 ?? The torque converter may be robbing you as well.

Probably just the bulbs are burnt out, but if the contact on the parking brake is pushed through to far (or not connected) It won't close the circuit either.

Seat belt light ???? We don't need no stinking seat belt light......

Up here in Canada, it's bears and cougars we deal with mostly. Small, furry dogs seem to work well as a diversion. Just toss them at the bear (or cougar), and you're good to go.

A little lube solves all sorts of issues....

After popping an "aged" factory brake line, I went with steel braided hoses. Found it gave the pedal a touch stiffer feel. Definitely would recommend them.

Does the 4 door come with a fin on the truck ???? LOL !!!

Wish I'd thought of that plate !!! Sounds perfect. One thing I did find though, was the machine screw that holds the mirror plate to the stem rusts up really quickly, and yeah, it's metric too.