Scott S.

In the infamous words of Jimmi..... Hey Joe, (lol) The second white wire does come off of the door switch, but, as discussed, it disappears somewhere along the edge of the dash/parking brake assembly. I'll take a better look the next time I get under there, as I can't really tell by looking down from the top side. Thanks for all your insights. 👍

Yes. I've connected the wire to a live feed, but then they stay on all the time. I'm was thinking that they need to connect to the door switch, but the diagram shows some sort of block connection in line.

I recently replaced the light switch in Montelishi, and I still can't find the connection spade for the white/light grey 20 gauge wire that operates the under dash lights. I've looked at the diagrams on here, and they show what appears to be some sort of common connection block............ But I just can't seem to find it. It has a smaller female spade end on it, but not sure where it attaches. Any ideas ?

So the smaller buckles don't fit the male ends in the recoil boxes ? I've got a '70 with bucket seats, and the front seats have smaller ones than the back seat. I believe that they are spring loaded and just pressed together, but I'm sure someone here has taken them apart before.

My understanding of the two different sizes of buckles for the front seats is so you could tell which belt connected to which, as the lap belt adjustment was in the box, whereas the adjustment on the shoulder belt was in the lower belt itself. If the buckles were the same size, one could confuse them and they'd be out of adjustment. Mind you, a tight belt across your wife's/girlfriend's/hitch hiker's chest might be a good thing.

Registered in the spouse's name ???? Hmmmm, seems to me I've heard that story before.....

If memory serves me right.... the two belts on the right are front seat lap belts that fit to the recoil boxes, the three sets in the middle are rear seats, and the one reversed female belt in the middle is for the shoulder belt. But I'm thinking there should be two of those.

Any speeding tickets ???? Welcome to the "Machine".....:)

Large sockets work too....

The bushing kit I bought came wit a lube to install them..... And the freezer trick was a great help.

Doing it on blocks creates more work than yo need.... As for bending the bracket, a really big cresent(monkey) wrench works. Just clamp it to to bracket and you'll effectively have a pry bar. When it came to getting the bushing sleeve out, I used a hacksaw to cut it down the length and basically split it. Not sure if you'd have room while the diff is still in the car, so a small sawsall and a lot of caution might be the way to go.

And sadly, most of them will never see the light of day or the open road again.....

I've questioned some of this "distilled" water before. Not sure if it's the water or just the container, but I had a few 1 gallon jugs that had brown sediment in them. Not sure if there's an expiry date for this stuff, but I haven't bought any from Super Store since. I think Walmart uses the same..... Could just be by territory ? Also, if you have aluminum components, there is a different A/F recommended for that.

Montelishi spends her winters outside, and I just don't want to take the chance on these -40 degree cold snaps. I flush the system every spring before putting her back on the road, and use an additive to lubricate the system. Seems to work.... so far.

A nice, numbers matching car on Road Kill ????

Block her up, drain radiator and windshield res., pull battery, cover and sit sadly in the window waiting for spring. Come spring, I change the oil... just to be sure that there's some in the top end of the engine before firing her up. Replace the other fluids and grease everything, Fire her up for about 30 minutes and run through the gears before putting her back on the ground. Just to get everything loosened up. I made the mistake the first winter of starting up in the cold..... Weakened the battery, and because of the aluminum intake and heads, the top end gaskets all needed to be replaced.

I found one made by Dorman that works well (350 cid) But you have to be specific when you buy one, or you could wind up with the warning light sender.

The mechanic that re built my 200r4 recommended synthetic.... Wasn't specific on any brand.

Ethel ? Is that you, Ethel ? What do you think you're doin' ? You get your clothes on !

Sunny Alberta !!! +6' c and MELTING !!!!

It was Metric by the time I started (legally) driving..... 18 cents a litre.... So about 80 cents (can) for a gallon (us).

And a brand new 1971 Monte Carlo cost less than $4000.00 !!! Most G.M. A/G body cars had the filler behind the plate until '87..... AND.... One could work on them in their own garage. Progress......

Could also be a broken cable....

You know you've become obsessed when you start watching movies just for the cars.....

NICE !!! Is the original Batmobile still the George Barris one ?