Chevy Dave

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When I was a Boy Scout one of the leaders had a new Oldsmobile Super 88 two door ht. I rode with him on a ski trip to Mt. Hood. I believe the car had a 394 cu. in. V8 with about 315 hp. I was very impressed with that car.

Welcome aboard! I have been judging and restoring GM cars for over 30 years, your Monte has the first red differential cover that I have ever seen.

The recommendation to not delete the ballast resistor has been added since I installed these systems over ten years ago. Petronics used to recommend bypassing it. I would certainly recommend following the instructions that came with your kit.

I have used Pertronix ignitions for many years and have been very pleased. I definitely prefer the lobe sensor model. I have used 7mm wires and stock as well as high performance coils. Be sure to bypass the ballast resistor for full voltage to the coil.

After installing a reproduction gauge and a new ACDelco sender, I read 210 degrees with an actual 185 degrees. I then replaced the sender with a Lectric Limited one and everything now works perfect. I think your Lectric Limited sender is defective.

I replaced my temperature sender (factory gauges) with a new AC Delco unit. With the new sender my temperature gauge was reading about 20 degrees to hot. I then installed one from Lectric Limited and am now getting accurate readings. The car is a 70 SS 454. I thought you guys would like to know about this. I have heard of other guys with older Chevys having similar issues

I have done some research on the subject, including speaking with Mark at Mad Electric. The 63 amp alternator puts out more amps at idle and at lower rpms. I have verified this testing with my 63 amp alternator and a 61 amp off of another car. You can directly replace the 37-61 amp one with the 63. The 63. amp looks like a 73 and later 10 SI, but does not have the integral regulator or the diode trio.

My 70 SS: Dark blue vinal bucket seats Optional sport steering wheel Black steering column

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The 1970 Cranberry Red SS 454 sold for $62700 plus the commission

Why was this offered on AC equipped cars with the standard 61 amp alternator? A 2 amp increase was not much, was the 63 amp more durable? Did it offer a higher output at idle? It appears that the 63 amp one has a case similar to the later 10SI interregnal regulator models. If anyone has any info on this subject I would appreciate it. Thanks, Chevy Dave

I stated that the internally regulated alternator was an option, but I may have been incorrect. The 63 amp alternator was an option, but my 63 amp is not internally regulated. The service manual shows both types , but the internally regulated one may have not been available on a Monte Carlo.

The internally regulated alternator was an option on the 70-72 cars.

Does a 4 bolt LS5 block have a different casting number than the 2 bolt blocks?

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I have used Power Brake Booster Exchange, located in Lynwood, WA. They did good work for me several years ago when they were located in Portland, OR. The original owner retired and it was taken over by a new guy in Washington.

Thank you Dennis for some great information. The reason that I changed the printed circuit was because some of the lamps were not illuminating and I wanted to replace all of the lamps with LED bulbs to make the display brighter. During bench testing I short circuited the new printed circuit. I replaced it, but I may have blown the two gauges at that time. With the second new printed circuit everything works accept the temp and fuel gauge. What is the best way to test the gauges to see if they are good? I have added an extra ground wire just in case I might get a bad connection at some time.

Does the temp and fuel gauge pod have a separate ground?

My Monte is a factory gauge car. I disconnected the battery and the gauges are still pegged all the way to the right. Do you think that I some how destroyed the gauges or could the printed circuit defective? The only changes that I have done is to replace the printed circuit. The ammeter and all the lights work.

I just replaces the printed circuit on my 70 SS w/gauges. Everything works good accept for the temp gauge and fuel gauge. These worked OK before, but now both needles are pegged with the ignition off or on. Running the engine does not change anything. Has anyone else had this problem ? Any idea what is wrong?

The 7040200 is not a small block carb. According to the 1970 service manual It was used on 1970 big blocks with automatic transmissions.

I am restoring the auto leveling system on my 70 SS454. Where are you guys purchasing the air hoses?

I wonder if I installed the mic under the radio, on the underside of the dash, if it would pickup my voice for Bluetooth phone calls?

Thanks for the info, I will look into your suggestion.