overdrive

No. Mine is 3963512, CPD, cast in late '69, installed in an early '71 model at the Leed's plant in KC. Not original to my car. The original owner lived in KC and was a drag racer. He's the one that put this engine in my car. Dan

My 454 block is code CPD, which is a '71 LS5. It's also a 4 bolt main block and it has a forged steel crankshaft. Some LS5s are 4 bolt. Dan

$150 entry? Wow. That show is a huge money maker for someone. Thanks for your reply. Dan

I might be interested in taking my car to that show next year. What does it take to enter? Dan

I'm looking for a 7041201. Any help is appreciated. 1971 with a 4 speed. I know it's a long shot. Dan

I have a number of spare Quadrajets from various years. One of the '72s with the slotted arm like yours has had the arm twisted so the top of the arm is closer to the carb than the bottom is. I suspect that was done because someone had the same problem you have. The top of the linkage slipped into the slot and jammed. I can see how twisting the arm a little could stop that from happening. Dan

Ron, I believe your linkage is installed backwards, or it's the wrong one. Also, the hairpin style clip you have is incorrect. Changing it to a new one won't cure the problem. These photos are of my '71 carb. The '72 and later carbs used a slot for the linkage to attach to. The hairpin clip and a slot won't work well together. The hairpin clips are for round holes. The earlier carbs have just a round hole and the larger style clip that I don't know the name of, but a hairpin is ok with them. I think your linkage is going to hang up in that slot, no matter which style clip you use, unless the linkage is turned around. I'm not certain that would even eliminate your issue without seeing how it fits. Dan

This is the clip for the cable. The other one is for the cable sheath. Dan

My original starter for my '71 is dated about 3 weeks before the car was assembled. Dated 2 months ahead of assembly isn't common. Dan

You'll need to buy the lower piece and you can easily modify it to fit correctly. Just file it to the shape that Aaron showed to fit around the raised area by the latch. Dan

Thanks for your support, Paul! Dan

That trim is not a Chevrolet part that was used on a first gen Monte Carlo. It's just another part that OPGI likes to push to make money. They have others too. Dan

That one's starting to rust a little. You got some good parts. Dan

Another Kansas City L code '71. Very nice! Dan

Beautiful SS. You'll want to check with C.A.R.S. Inc and Legendary Auto Interiors for seat covers. C.A.R.S. will likely have the better price and they are great quality. P.U.I. is another company that makes them, but some say the quality is not as good as the other two. Dan

The outer brackets for the rear bumper are made from round tubing, or from stamped steel, depending on the model year. The guy on Facebook has stripped and parted out dozens of first gen Montes. Dan

Steve, thanks for offering, but my hood opens fine just from stretching the original spring. I was in Menards anyway, so I just got a spring to see if it fit. I appreciate your offer. Dan

What year? '70 is not the same as '71. Dan

The Menards spring wouldn't let my hood latch down. I had re-stretched the original spring on my '71 before I got the Menards spring and it was much better, but I was in Menards a few weeks later and picked up their spring. I went ahead and tried it, but it's too long. Dan

Thank you for the kind words, past help, orders, and the confidence in my detent plates. I'm sorry that you're having an issue with installing the detent. As you found, your aftermarket shifter isn't made quite exactly the same as an original. There are at least 3 different aftermarket shifters out there and the only one I know of that has changes that cause a problem with my early detent plates is the one that, if I remember correctly, has the RestoParts name on the box. The rear bolt hole in the shifter base is higher than the one in the original shifter base. This causes the rear of the plate to be too high and the crossbar can't get high enough to pull back to 1st gear. I've been adding a second threaded hole right above the original one to allow the detent plate to be used on that shifter base. If I am understanding your issue correctly, and this is the case, I can ship you another detent plate that already has the extra bolt hole for a RestoParts shifter. An option is for you to enlarge the shifter base bolt hole to let the detent plate mount a little lower in the back, if it just needs to be dropped a little bit. If the amount of lowering needed is very much, I would just drill and tap another hole right above the existing one. I appreciate your continued support and I'm glad you found the "lost" parts. I stress in my instruction sheets to please call me with any questions. I'm serious about making every shifter with one of my products installed on it work just as good as mine does, and I can save a guy time and headaches. With there being at least 4 different 68-72 horseshoe shifter manufacturers, there are bound to be questions, and I'm here to help.

I haven't had much time to work on this car yet, but I changed the plugs and did a compression test. It runs and idles better, but now it seems the fuel pump is giving up. Suddenly, the motor is fuel starved when accelerating hard. That'll be the next change. The Hurst Competition Plus shifter felt pretty sloppy. The car actually came to me with the original Muncie shifter, plus a spare one that had a part number written on it as if a salvage yard would have done. I cleaned it up in the degreaser tank yesterday and it's in great shape. Gus changed to the Hurst in '74, so my guess is that he got the spare Muncie shifter from a low miles Chevelle that had been wrecked, but decided not to use it. The mounting bracket and braces were still attached to the Muncie shifter that he took out, and that shifter was worn noticeably more than the spare one was. I was able to remove the Hurst this morning and install the Muncie. It works great, and every piece of original hardware I needed was in the Hurst box. I forgot to take a photo of the shifter after it was cleaned up, but I'll get one with it installed. The rubber shifter boot was hard and it crumbled getting the Hurst shifter out, but a new boot came with the car. I'll be installing it soon.

Which B&M shifter are you using, and why? Are you going to use a factory console? Just an FYI, a factory horseshoe shifter is much less costly than an aftermarket and can easily be made to function just as good and sometimes better than a B&M. Dan

Hi Dave. I believe you sent emails, correct? I'll let you know when I have them ready. Thank you for your order. Dan

Bump. Bump.