FASTSS454

Powerglide is a racing trans suited for light weight cars, everything your Monte isn't. I would do a 400 turbo with a Gearvendors overdrive hung off the back of it.

You should check the orignal wiring instructions on the Spal website and start all over and wire it correctly.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/tranny.html

it should have the C-clip

Install the tranny, then call Strange Engineering in Ill. and they will tell you how to measure it and will build you a very nice driveshaft.

ZCould also be sucking oil through the PCV valve, are your covers baffled?

It could also be a clogged sock on the fuel pickup in the tank.

I would shoot for a middle of the spec total backlash. Pinion depth is important too so make sure to check the contact pattern before calling everything good.

I prefer to adjust them while engine is running, call me old school but that was the way I learned how to do it when our cars were new.

I hate to tell you but he is right, never by a rebuilt from some parts store. They will let you down at the worst possible time. I always pony up the extra for a new Delco or Powermaster starter or alternator when I need them.

Not sure what combo you have but Moog has springs for a variety of combos, best one for what you are looking for go with big block with A/C for max lift. You may give up some of that nice Monte ride but things like this are a trade off. Unless your willing to call Moog and talk with aapps rep. and see if you can come up with a spring with the correct rate but with a taller installed height.

Common problems for a Chevy with headers, I experianced this issue with my Nova SS while vacationing in Florida about 20 years ago. Not a fun job to jump the starter terminals with a screwdriver every time you stop for gas during a 1300 mile ride home. When the motor was cold it would start fine but once the heat was on it was click click click. I added this mod and never had a problem again. http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

Looks real good so far, can't wait to see the finished product. Great work.

Here is a link to the one I have on my Monte, it has given me many years of good quality service. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8851/

Why are you worried they are going to foul out?

X2

OK now check for power at the nuetral start switch, it should only be hot when key is in crank position and it needs to be hot on both sides while key is in crank. If you take a jumper wire and run battery hot to 3 o'clock the starter should start cranking the engine, you can always jury rig a push button switch as a way of getiing it to crank but it will make the price go down. The ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column about 12 inches up from where it passes through the floor, the key in the column is connected to it by way of a rod about 10 inches long.

Not really needed until your making 500+ HP, I have never had a issue and don't use one.

Looking at the solenoid the main stud is at 12 o'clock it should be hot all the time, the 3 o'clock terminal is the crank terminal it should be hot when key is turned to crank, or you can jumper 12 and 3 and engine should turn over. 6 o'clock is the feed down to the windings in the starter, leave it alone. 9 o'clock is 12 volts out to the coil to bypass the ignition resistor that is built into the harness. Edited because I have club sized fingers and often hit 2 keys at the same time.

Do you have power to the inside small terminal at the solenoid when you turn key to crank? If no then the next place to look is at the neutral start switch.

Double Post

Check for voltage at the 2 small terminals on the starter, One will be hot with key on, the other will be hot with key to crank. If you have both of those we can work down the line.

Can you post some pics if they have been installed on the car?

You are running a fan shroud right? They all free wheel when a litlle when you kill the motor. Check air flow at the front of the radiator with a piece of printer paper, see if the air flow will suck it up to the radiator or condensor if you have A/C.

Nope none from the factory and when installing them the bottom of the spring should be oriented so it covers one of the small drain holes but not both.