Dans '70 Z20

No issue in doing so but just make sure the height of sidewall of rear tire is the same or larger than front or it will look funny. There was actually a 56 Nomad in one of the magazines a few years back with 18" up front and 17" in rear do to large wheel opening in front and smaller wheel opening in rear. It actually looked OK. Dan

Dan, Catching up on your thread and getting excited for you regarding your progress to date …… only to read your last post. Sorry for your loss. Sudden and unexpected. Hopefully at the time I am posting this your daughters health has already progressed in a positive direction. You are in our thoughts & prayers. Thanks for the heads up to all. Protecting your assets nowadays is key. Here in NY once your estate value goes .01 cent over 1 million ( with NY priced homes, 401K's, savings (yeah), cars and other valuables it is possible) your heirs are taxed at I believe 45% estate tax. Have all of your assets transferred & owned by a trust and your heirs as its benficiaries. Did it a few years back and now have piece of mind. We will still be here when things settle down a bit. Family first. Dan

I would assume TH350/TH400 same. Watch the video to see how it works. It adds a a higher detent which when you squeeze button for 1-2 shift it will stop at 2nd gear. Then let go of button for positive shift to third. They also sell one with detents in both directions for those running manual valve bodies. Dan

3-speed Ratchet Shift Detent A new Thomson performance product This detent will enable positive shifts from low to drive Also works for PowerGlide #DT3 ( detent only). . . . . $75.00 See a video of the detent installed and how it works. View video View Video PowerGlide 1968-72 Chevelle Ratchet Shift for Staple Shifter REVERSE MANUAL VALVE BODY RMVB Ratchet Style Detent: This new product from Thomson Performance has positive stops for both up-shifting and down-shifting. For the TH350 and the TH400. #RMVB- DT3. . . $100.00

I personally wouldn't worry about the ends being uncapped. I do believe it would finish them off better. But Marcus from SC&C wrote the book on "How to make your Muscle Car handle" and has worked with many manufacturers to either better their design of certain suspension parts or others to produce his engineered design. He puts many hours into research and development and if it was needed ….. it would be done. All of the stuff they produce are well thought out. He has worked with Spohn, Hellwig, Howe Racing, Curry, SPC Performance and others. Here is a product list of what he has available for our cars. http://scandc.com/new/catalog/11 Marcus has recently designed these application specific performance shocks in conjunction with VariShock. Even Bilsteins (Which I currently have …. for now) are just heavy duty versions of a steel bodied shock from the 70-80's. Much R&D went into these to insure the compression/rebound curves matched the needs of our old cars throughout the full suspension curve to give them a modern like ride. And since the design is inherent the need to spend big dollars for dual adjustible shocks is not necessary. These are affordable and will do the job. http://scandc.com/new/node/960 This is overkill but cool as hell. A Fays2 Watts link to keep rear end dead center at all times in hard cornering & acceleration. http://scandc.com/new/node/249 Truth About "One Manufacturer" Suspension Kits http://scandc.com/new/node/1019 Marcus @ SC&C is a wealth of knowledge regarding suspension & handling specific to our cars. He helped me set up my entire suspension. He loves to educate and you will be amazed with the information he posseses. They offer many manufacturers suspension parts but will give you the plus's and minus's of each to help you better decide betwen them based on your goal and budget. Have any questions. Call him directly. FYI: I believe they are closed Mondays. Dan

Interesting. Just saw this for the first time tonight. This will make the two unsupported front frame horns much more rigid by tying them together and triangulating the brace for strength. The frame horns endure a lot of torsional twist and flex through hard cornering and also stress from the steering box on the drivers side horn. Makes absolute sense to me and a simple bolt on. Says it will reduce many of the squeeks in the chassis because it will minimize the flex of chassis. Here is the link: http://scandc.com/new/node/996 Dan

Wow …. cant believe its been three years. I hope you continue to fill your life with positive experiences and surround yourself with those you care about. Hopefully in time the memories will no longer haunt you. We are here for you when you need us and can't imagine a world without you. Thanks for all you do for everyone. Your friendship & selfless ways are appreciated by more than you likely know. Dan

Great job Rob, as always. But we can't forget all the others that pitched in in many ways to help insure the meet was a success. I know Scott Stevens and Andreas did their fair share too. There is not enough time to get around to everyone as we all would hope to. Regardless, everyone you meet in this club is genuine. We are a special bunch and not your typical car club …. Thank God!! Thats what sets us apart. To anyone I did not have the pleasure of meeting …… hopefully next year …… but I assume with due to my height & loud voice you must know who I am. LOL Great time. Dan

Found the strawbery waffles on the last day but I really enjoyed the "Black Cherry" and "Cotton Candy" scent Mike Boyt had coming out of his exhaust. Those scents he adds to his race fuel are great. Dan

Great group here, I agree. Always good times ….. good people. Thanks for everyones efforts that regardless of a gloomy weekend turned out to be a great time as usual. FGMCC represented strong at Carlisle once again. Dan

Figured I would take advantage of a somewhat cooler and cloudy day. Took a VAC day and started the cleaning, waxing, vacuuming etc. to prep for the Eastern Meet. Up until now I was simply using Hand Glaze and Detailer. Got some direction from Steve as far as what products to use and WOW what a difference. Hand Glaze where needed on dull areas, Detailer, Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax (Liquid) and Mothers Synthetic Wax (Liquid). This combination produces unbelievable results. I was very impressed. Car looks better than it ever has. Now just undercarraige. back of wheels and windows. Started to mist rain as I was finished waxing so had to tuck her way. See you guys in a week or so. Dan

The support braces are to help make the frame more ridged during hard cornering/acceleration. Can't remember if they were there on a stock car and simply stamped steel. If you are doing the lower arms it just makes sense to do these at the same time as one project. All the aftermarket suspension guys make them. Would likely match them to the lowers arms you choose as Rob did with the BMR ones above. Currectrac, Hotchkis, Speedtech Global West, BMR, Spohn, PST, Metco, Detroit speed and alike all make the control arms and I believe the braces. Dan

Is it the one four posts down from yours in SS454 section "My '70 SS454 build" by Overdrive. I believe that must be the one you are speaking of bc it has a l ot of good info. Dan

Yep. My 70 SS454 has the canister and all 70 California emissions. It was built in Van Nuys in Dec 1969 and I believe had one owner in California and then spent the rest of its life in Washington State. Haven't attempted to learn how to post pics here. I did not realize the new site was any different. When time allows I will make my first attempt and surprise you all with my newly learned IT skill set. LOL. Thanks for the reminder Dan. Dan

Seems you solved the issue already. I had the same issue with mine, whole house smelled when I came home. I had a new NOS filter bottom for mine but that did nothing for the smell. Seems some have given you an aftermarket number for the bottom canister cap. All I needed to get was new charcoal. The 40 year old charcoal can only absorb so much before it is completely saturated and provides no benefit in suppressing fuel smell. I went to my local pet store (PETCO) and purchase a jug of activated charcoal used for aquarium filters. Cleaned out the canister, installed new filter and filled to the top with the new charcoal. WOW !! What a difference. I highly recommend everyone do this. For a little over $10, I no longer smell like a gas station attendant after taking her for a ride. Hope this helps Dan

I run Steves old Pro Systems 780cfm carb from Patrick. When Steve upgraded to a larger carburetor when he stroked his car his old carb was almost the exact carb for my application. As many have said bolt on and turn key. Almost dead on from the factory with no issues since. Dan

Mine was built second week in December 1969 ……. the week of General Motors annual Holiday Party. That sure explains a lot !! LOL Dan

I whole heartedly recommend Legendary Auto Interiors also. Ordered everything from them from headliner, door panels, seat covers and even vinyl top. The vinyl top is made correctly in almost a satin finish rather than really shiney like some others out there. I am very satisfied with everything I received from them. Tony, I do believe they started making the cloth seat covers now. Good luck with resto. Dan

Larry. I have pics I can send of my modified bracket and what speaker looks like installed. Remember I have the Boston Acoustics which need more modification and were nearly impossible to fit (even had to trim frame of speaker itself a bit). But at least with the pics you can get an idea of what steve was talking about regarding L brackets. Or you can by the kick panels by your feet designed to hold front speakers to. I myself would find a set of original frt speaker brackets and use the Kenwoods. Sent you a PM to get your email to send pics. Not in your profile. PM's are in drop down list when you click on your name on top right. I myself have to get used to the new site. Dan

These guys make stock replacements and also upgraded speakers that will fit. http://turnswitch.com/speakers.htm Keep in mind. If you are using your original factory radio or a newer one makes a difference. You will need speakers designed for either 4 ohms or 8 ohms depending on which unit you are using. Keep that in mind. Here on Long Island many use a current model Kenwood set of front speakers if we are using aftermarket radios in-dash or glove box. They are the only ones (believe me I checked the specs/line drawings of literally every one made!!) that can be made to fit with some modifications. I can get the model number for you later. I'll get Steve to respond here. Most are either too deep or have larger magnets that we do not have the room for. In my car I installed a set of Boston Acoustic SE's. Boston acoustic was getting out of car stereo market and had all their car audio stuff on clearance. The specs were very very very close. But even with those we(Steve) had to REALLY customize the brackets and add add'l mounts to get them to fit. Huge ordeal. It would have been impossible with the windshield installed but luckily it was not yet. Literally millimeters to spare in every direction. Have pics of install if need. I would either stick with one of the sets above or get the Kenwoods. The Kenwoods can be made to fit with a lil work. I will try to get the model number for you. Dan

All I can recommend without a lengthy post is to call Mark Sevitske @ Sevitskes Classcs & Customs ( http://scandc.com/new/ ) . He is the author of the book How to make your Muscle Car handle. He has also worked with many aftermarket suspension companies in the design of sway bars, performance springs, and most recently performance shocks by application. He was very helpful in setting up the suspension in my car. Try to have an idea what the goal of your car is and your budget. He will then give you his idea as to the direction you should go. He sells all brands of suspension components and can share the good, bad and ugly of each and how they compare to others on the market. He is a wealth of knowledge. Do yourself a favor and give him a call. FYI : I believe he is closed on Mondays Dan

Just found this formula from an article by David Vizard who is supposdly respected (?). It was published in Super Chevy magazine. According to the article you need to flow 2.2 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of exhaust per 1 HP. Therefore you first need to know what your flywheel HP is, and multiply it by 2.2 So for an example: If your engine produces 500 HP at the crankshaft, then that's 500 x 2.2=1,100 CFM. Now remember that because you're using dual exhaust and therefore will have two exhaust pipes (left and right) then you need to divide this total CFM figure by2. So that's 1,100 CFM cut in half.... or 1,100 divided by 2=550 CFM. So you'll need an exhaust pipe diameter that will flow 550 CFM. with that in mind here are the pipe diameters and their flow rates. 2.5" dia. = 560CFM ….. Good to 509 HP @ crank ……. 509 x 2.2= 1120 CFM produced -- 1120 CFM divided by 2=560 CFM per pipe needed(dual exhaust) 3.0" dia. = 672CFM ….. Good to 611 HP @ crank ……… 611 x 2.2= 1344 CFM produced -- 1344 CFM divided by 2=672 CFM per pipe needed(dual exhaust) 3.5" dia. = 784CFM .... Good to 713 HP @ crank 4.0" dia. = 896CFM ….. Good to 814 HP @ crank …..so just do the math above using your engine's HP and you'll be able to determine the cfm's your engine produces which translates to how big of an exhaust pipe diameter you'll need. Obviously, other factors like mandrel bent tubing, % of straight vs bent tubing, and better header design for scavenging and exhaust flow that will effect optimal performance. NOTE: Every muffler manufacturer will list the max cfm's that a particular muffler can flow. Be sure to match your mufflers with the cfm demand your engine requires. If you are running dual exhaust remember that each muffler only needs to have a max cfm of half what your engine produces. Dan

For Sam it was likely the HP and high compression (13:1 from memory) he used to run with his old E85 motor. He has made his 454 more streetable now. I know the breaking point at which a 3" exhaust may be a benefit is 500hp. It also depends on the gears your running and max rpm engine is expected to run up to at the track. Not sure where the same point is where a 3.5" is beneficial. Bigger not always better performance wise. Dan ;

3" inlet/outlet Dynomax 17770 Hemi Super Turbo's. Love 'em. Nice deep muscle car sound on a 575hp - 468. They are quiet and flow as well as Flowmasters. Using a full 3" exhaust with an X-pipe and experiencing no resonance. They are 27" long tip to tip (just fit). As per Dynomax: "Dyno tests prove it--Dynomax's Super Turbo mufflers are the closest you can get to running an open pipe, but a lot quieter. To make things even better, Super Turbos have more features than most other mufflers put together--less backpressure for improved quarter mile times, aluminized construction for long life and good looks, patented flow directors that channel exhaust for maximum performance, and fiberglass matting for a deep, throaty, powerful performance tone." The ones I have were disco'd a few years back. I think I got the last set available in the US like two and a half years ago. DYnomax Performance Mufflers Dynomax 17770 Hemi Super Turbos There are many threads like this one that speak highly of them. Dynomax Hemi Super Turbos Not sure if any of there current Super Turbo muffler models compare or fit our cars. This list from Torque techs website may help you decide. Once you choose you exhaust diameter the Flowmaster mufflers get quieter as you move down the list. Muffler list - Torque Tech The guys at torque tech run the mufflers I have but had no more in stock. They told me if I located a set I should grab 'em …. so I did. Dan

Hellwig Frame FX Kit for ’68-’72 Chevelle One of the most effective ways to improve the stiffness and handling of a Chevelle is to box the factory chassis. This process could take considerable time with measuring, cutting and fitting steel panels, however Hellwig Products is making the task easy and even more effective with their new custom fit Frame FX kit. Most Chevelles have an open C-channel chassis that is only 3” wide at the top and bottom. This design is inherently weak in handling torsion and marginal in bending. Hellwig’s Frame FX kit doubles the width of the tension side of the frame rail and closes the area for dramatic increases in torsional and bending stiffness. The new Frame FX kit is made up 14 pre-cut 10-gauge steel panels that match the thickness of the factory frame and fit into the weak points of the factory chassis. Hellwig also engineered another panel that adds an extra mount to tie the floor to the chassis to add even more strength to the entire car. In addition, brackets are provided to mount the transmission crossmember with enough adjustment to accommodate nearly any drivetrain configuration. The increased strength that the Frame FX kit provides results in handling and ride quality improvements while retaining the factory chassis and mounting points. If you’re adding a high powered drivetrain and bigger tires, the Frame FX Kit should be in your Chevelle’s future. Stiffen the factory chassis to improve the overall strength, handling and ride quality Supplied with 14 pre-formed steel panels that fit in weak areas of each factory frame rail Adds an extra body mount to secure the floor pan to the chassis for added stability Transmission crossmember mount allows multiple drivetrain configurations For more information about the Frame FX line and other Hellwig load and sway control components, check out: Hellwig Products or call 800-367-5480.