Leghome Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 My 72's 350 started to miss out quite badly last Sunday on my way home from Danville IN after visiting my granddaughter. Finally took the time today and figgered out what the problem was. I think I might be burning a little oil on the number one plug. I started using Mobile One about two years ago and today a good friend suggested I go back to Valvolene 30 Wight oil to see if that makes any difference. He had a engine that did not like the synthetic oils and used oil until he switched back to a straight weight oil. Number one was the only plug fouled all the rest look very very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badddoin Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Ow! I wish you luck with the oil swap, but I'd have to say I think you have an engine issue (other than oil type) if all the other plugs looked good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Take the time to do a full compression test. Replace the plugs (how many miles on them?) and when it's due for an oil change, go back to a 10 W 30 or 5 W 30 standard type oil. Does it use oil? 1,000 miles per quart or?? Good luck, Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 synthetic flows better so it leaks more and gets into places easier than conventional oil, esp the places you don't want it to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 You could try to switch back to a straight weight oil to see if that helps. I would still check that plug every 500 miles or so for any deposits building up. You may have something deeper going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 After talking to one of my mechanic friends he thinks it is the valve seals. Going to Carlisle and back plus several shorter trips around here for a total of around 2000 miles we went thru 2 quarts of oil. Since then it has stayed pretty much the same after another 700 miles. My son in-law is going to come up Sunday and we are going to check the compression plus a few other things. I did order a new PVC valve today that has a smaller hole in the bottom similar to the Billet Specialties one that JEG's and Summit sell. Billet price $35 the look alike $20. Another friend had a furd 351 that was using oil close to what I have been and he changed the PCV valve to this one and it fixed his problem. With my plug looking like this I know mine is more than the PVC valve. Should know more Sunday afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Mine does the same thing on #1 plug too in about 3 to 4 thousand miles I am assuming valve seals I carry a couple extras with me all the time but it never stranded me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 I pulled the left side of the engine apart and see no apparent reason for the oil consumption. The valve seal looked good but I went ahead and replaced it on the intake valve just to be safe. I am not going to replace any thing else right now lack of no monies, but we are pulling the engine this winter to replace the leaking rear main seal so then it will be gone over with fine tooth comb and any and all issues will be addressed then. Also going to change the oil and filter tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 if you are oil fouling plugs, it's coming from somewhere you will not be able to tell by just looking at the the valve seals, look down the intake port at the valve your intake valves will get build up like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 I pulled the intake off and found no serious problems there so the snowball has started to roll again. Glendia said why put it back together and then have to take it apart next year to fix it then. I was going to stick it back together and then redo it next winter but Jamey(son in-law) will be pulling the engine in the next couple of weeks. Going the roller cam and rocker route as it is ONLY $600 more than just having it repaired as is. We have decided it will be worth the money to do it now and not have to take it apart again next year. What would be a fair price for the rebuild with the roller set up? I have estimates so far of $2,100 to $2,400 and waiting for another call back. $2400 and 4 to 6 weeks turn around is local and the $2100 and 7 to 10 day turn around is on the South side of INDY. I can drive an hour for $300 and have it back together quickly. The INDY shop is used by a lot of Jamey's friends so I have a good feeling about them. The local guy is pretty good but not very quick. He has been known to take up to 6 months to do a motor but I think a lot of those problems are the people keep going in and bugging him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Going with a roller is a very wise choice I refuse to use another flat tapper cam ever again, today's metal and oil make for a cam failure very real Go with your gut, take it to your son in laws shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Go with the proven shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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