wallaby Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 I'm about to take the plunge and get myself an aftermarket converter. I have the stall speed figured out, but now I need to figure which BRAND to get. There are several makers that list similar units....anybody have input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 it depends a lot on what you want. for example. B&M converters tend to be very 'loose' meaning the engine will rev up, and then the car will 'lurch' when the converter flashes. (that's great for the track) Â other brands, like my Daaco are 'tight'.. when I drive with a light foot, you almost can't even tell I have a 2500 stall converter in the car, it drives like any normal converter.. if you let off the brake the car will roll on it's own.. etc. .but yet if I punch it to the floor from a stand still, you can feel the engine rev up, and then feel the converter flash and away you go :> Â what's the rest of your drivetrain like mark? sbc, bbc? 350,400, 700 trans? and what gears? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Call a manufacture who will build you one for your application. Off the shelf converters are to generic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 ditto here too  I am considering a new converter too, my first stop will be Coan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 ditto here too I am considering a new converter too, my first stop will be Coan  X2  Talk with Craig at Coan. They got my converter spot on the first time (10" 3600 stall Max Performance). The thing feels near stock on the street but at the track will flash to 3600.  There are also other good converter companies out there but my experiance with Coan has been great.  David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 A couple others to check on are "Yank" and "ATI". I have a 3500 Yank in my full manual 4L80 and really like it. ATI also has an excellent rep for custom built transmissions and convertors. - Dave   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL M Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 COAN!!..HANDS DOWN!!. My 10in 3000-3500 feels close to stock until Im into the pedal, then all hell breaks loose!!! Best $495 I've ever spent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Burns Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Here I go again defending B&M... I whoop the snot out of my B&M Nitrous Holeshot converters- they drive like a dream and for $320, the price is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 10" ATI here. I like it. I talked to one of the older guys who works there and I told him that I wanted a converter that flashed to around 3000 rpm but was good to drive on the highway at less than stall speed as well. They made me a relatively tight converter that also flashes to 3200 or so. It feels pretty close to stock but jumps when you lay into it. Any reputable company can make you a tight OR loose converter that stalls at the same stall speed. It just depends on what you want. I've also heard lots of good things about Coan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71monteme Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 10" tci here, lots of 1/4 mile passes and few hunded miles on the street for the past 5 years, still holding up pretty good. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 Thanks. I sent my info to coan....can't wait to see what they say. I already got a recommendation from ATI. Â I just wanted a heads-up if there were some horror stories out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 LIke scott said.. it depends on what you want 'feels nearly stock on the street' is actully a matter of opinion.. some guys may not like a converter that behaves that way... and would therefore consider your converter 'junk'.....  Leo's race car has a fairly loose converter and getting it onto the trailer without launching it over the top of the towing truck can be tricky  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I sent my info to Coan too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I have a Yank converter in my 4L80 and it works good, well see what its capable of after the turbo goes on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 I got my reply today from Coan. Of course they recommend their 11-inch "Pro Street" series converter, custom built. They didn't mention what stall speed. Â Their street/strip (cheaper) series is the same except it has furnace-brazed fins, while the pro street series has TIG welded fins. Â Holly smokes. I have never damaged a torque converter before and always ran original equipment stuff. Do you think it's really necessary that I have the "bullet-proof" TIG welded internals, or will the "bullet-resistant" furnace-brazing be ok? TIG welding is an extra $100. I know what I'm going to do, but what would YOU do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I don't know anything about your drivetrain mark.. what kinda h.p? you gonna spray it? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Yes, yes, and yes. You get what you pay for and too much protection is never enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 coan never gotten back to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 I understand that sometimes too much is a good thing, but like a billet steel crankshaft, or tires rated for 300mph, this might be more than I really need. Â They recommend this Pro Street converter for high-torque applications, so maybe because I have a big-block I automatically jump into that category....but C'mon; for a company that specializes in the racing business, my numbers must seem pretty small. I don't run a blower or spray or trans lock and RPMs never see 6000. I've had my car to the dragstrip all of two times. Rear wheel dyno numbers are: 365hp/370tq....I think it peaks at about 3600 RPM. I am exploring the converter issue only because my engine would like some more freedom at idle. Right now it slams pretty hard when you put it in gear and the engine is laboring under load trying to pull the car against the brakes. Other than that, I have no complaint with the stock converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL M Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I thought that their Competition 10in 3000-3500 was a bit much for my mild small block..But Craig said it would stall on the low end of 3000-3200 and he nailed it..if you have the $$ go for it. They've been "spot on" in every recommendation that I have heard about so far..good luck w/ whatever you do..your gonna love a good converter but either way your going to pay for it. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 My neighbor got a transmission from these guys (Coan) in his Willys and loved it, the Willys was in a wreck this summer though and it's in pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 If it were me, I'd spend the extra $100. I've wasted money much worse than that before! Â Also keep in mind that the heavier the car, and the lower numerically the rear gears, the more stress/torque the converter sees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 I just got my response from Coan, they recommend a 8" w/ a 5000 rpm stall, I'm running a 10" now w/ a 3800 stall, I'm going to call them tomorrow  the bad news....it's $795 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 How many tenths you think itll drop to lose a lot of drive ability? and is it worth it for the money? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 what drive ability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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