Gush's monte Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Has anyone run into having a rear quarter power window stuck in the down position? I have a new motor for it but can’t see how to remove the old. Looks like the window needs to be at least 1/2 way up to remove it from the regulator so that the motor can be replaced. I have 12.5 volts to the switch and the motor clicks when working the switch either direction. Tried multiple switches with same result. Also tried hitting the motor to see if it would start working again (like a starter) but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 After removing the rear seat and side panel you will need to unbolt the window regulator from the body of the car. Then see if you have enough movement to take the regulator off of the window. If not you may have to loosen the window stop (on the bottom) and possibly remove the window track itself to gain the room . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 John, It sounds to me like your regulator motor is actually working and the clicking you hear is the worm gear on the motor shaft skipping over teeth on the drive gear inside the regulator housing (see photos). While the worm gear and/or some of the drive gear teeth may be damaged, I suggest you first focus on seeing if you can free up the glass travel as it seems to be bound up. I would NOT run that regulator motor any more until the window glass and linkage arms are confirmed to be free to move naturally. You may still have to remove the seat, back cushion and side panel to get access to the linkage and window glass just to free up/repair whatever is binding. Examine the linkage carefully for worn or broken guide wheels on the ends of the linkage arms and for dry/greaseless tracks for the guide wheels. There are also physical metal stops to keep the window glass from dropping too far which can come loose and may bind up the linkage. lf you determine the window glass and operational linkage are indeed free to move naturally, then you may need to replace the entire regulator, especially if teeth are damaged/stripped off the drive hub inside the regulator housing. NOTE: there is a strong coil spring attached to the linkage that is retained only by the compound force of the drive gear and worm gear. Anytime you separate the regulator motor/ gear box from the linkage, that spring (unless it is broken) will whip that linkage arm around with dangerous force! Fortunately, I don't believe it is possible to remove the motor/gear box from the linkage unless you first unbolt the linkage and remove the entire assembly - a challenging task, especially if the motor will not operate the linkage which has to be collapsed just to get through the body sidewall opening (see photos). If/when you get the regulator/linkage assembly out of the car, BE SURE to secure the linkage arm with the coil spring on it BEFORE you remove the regulator motor/gear box from the linkage (see photo with screwdrive blocking the arm). I'm guessing your "new motor" comes as an integrated assembly with a new gear box. If not, you'll want to open the original gear box, clean out the old hardened grease and repack it with fresh grease. Good luck! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Great explanation and pics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gush's monte Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Thank you Tom and Dennis. I have the back seat out, side panel and door vent out so I can have as much access to the area. The window is not bound up on the tracks, I can move it around. I have already unbolt the regulator to try to see if I can remove it from the window but with the window in the down position I can not get the regulator separated from the window. I have tried moving in all directions but run out of room before to roller on the regulator will get to the point of being able to remove it from the window slot it rides in. I have even removed the bottom window stop and removed the bottom over the vertical window track to try to get more room. When I restored the car a couple of years ago, I cleaned the tracks, put new lithium grease and rollers on the window. I wish I took the motors apart at that time but they were all working good. The clicking sound I hear does not sound like a gear noise, more like a solenoid click. I was thinking about prying the window regulator roller off so I can separate the regulator from the window, but think I would end up breaking it and not sure if I can find a replacement roller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 John, if the window glass being all the way down is preventing you from removing the regulator assembly from the tracks, I would try to move the glass up manually. A locking suction cup or two used on the inside might get it started and high enough where you can get ahold of the top of the window and pull it on up. I seem to remember that the track the linkage wheel runs in is attached directly to the glass so you'll probably have to reposition the linkage as you push/pull the glass up. If your motor was still working, it would be easy raise the glass or at least pulse it in the correct direction while you try to lift the glass upward. However, if you have already disconnected the regulator assembly from the inner body panel, you should be able to lift the glass while repositioning the linkage somewhat without running the motor. If you have to disconnect the arm guide wheel to escape the window track, I suggest carefully drilling that pressed-in axle stud out from its backside rather than risk breaking the wheel. It should be easy to weld that axle stud back in place later. I've never removed a rear regulator assembly, but I have installed two of them and distinctly remember having to use 12V power source to reposition the lift arms several times to snake the whole assembly through the relatively small access hole in the inner body panel. I don't know why it would be any different to take one out. Just a thought: If you unplug the factory harness from the regulator motor and attach a portable 12V power supply with the positive lead to one pole of the regulator, it should move the arms either up or down when you touch the negative lead to the regulator frame. One of the poles on the regulator is a horizontal blade, the other is vertical. I don't remember which is for upward movement, but you can easily test each one to find out. I know you say the regulator motor doesn't work properly and clicks when power is applied but I'm going to stick with my stripped gear theory. If that is the case, you will need to manually "help" the motor move the arms upward initially to engage intact gear teeth. There is a relay in the factory power window system but I have never hear it click on any of my Montes. It is simply used to energize the system only when the ignition is turned on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gush's monte Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 Thank you Dennis, I tried wiring the regulator directly to the battery, but the regulator motor still just clicks. I think I will try either drilling out the guide roller pin, though I may need to cut off the part sticks out from the arm as it is folded over like a rivet, I read that is how the factory installed them. I looked online it looks like they may sell replacements. I am going to try to save it first by carefully cutting it off or drilling it off and welding it back on after I get the regulator out. Thank you for your help and the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 If you need parts let me know. I have a few power regulators. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 3 minutes ago, Dtret said: If you need parts let me know. I have a few power regulators. And by few, you mean 12-15???? lol 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 1 minute ago, willie said: And by few, you mean 12-15???? lol Probably. That grass mow job I did a couple years ago netted me two cars worth. I’ve acquired a few since. But he may just need pictures right now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gush's monte Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Thank you Dennis, I was able to remove the roller. I have the motor replaced on the regulator and tested. Waiting for a new roller that should arrive Monday. If it does not fit I can always weld the old one back on. It was definitely the motor that failed as all the teeth looked great when I took the motor apart. While I am waiting I am going to address the headliner at the sail panel that needs a couple of wrinkles smoothed out. When I put it in a couple of years ago I must not of got it tight enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Glad to hear you found and solved the problem, John. After replacing that roller, you will have the fun task of getting the whole assembly wormed through that small opening in the inner body panel. I had to use a 12V power source to move the lift arms a couple of times before getting it back in place and connected to the window tracks but maybe you are more of a Houdini than I am. Good luck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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