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700r4 question


patman

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Here is one post I found by searching for 700r4 Pat. smile I have one on the floor out in the garage right now, just need to rebuild it and get the other parts I need to install it...

 

http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=244917&page=1

 

 

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Pat, there really isn't that much to do. Install the trans, change the position of the crossmember, shorten the driveshaft, install a convertor control for the over drive. B&M makes a really nice set up for that overdrive. The one in my Monte was really great. I change out to a TH400 because the car is going for strip only and no highway. Good luck.

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If you go to the right place pat like bowtieoverdrive.com the convertor control is all ready installed in the trans. The main thing with a hi-proferance overdrive trans is to make sure the line psi is right other wise you burn them up. I run a level 2 bowtie overdrive trans behind my big block which can handle 450hp. In od my motor turns 1980rpm's at 60 mph(2.73 rear gear). The differane between the 200r4 and the 700r4 is the 200's gears are evenly space where the 700 has a deep 1st gear 3.06. Either way you go I would add a trans temp gauage to keep an eye on the trans fuild.

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Pat, there really isn't that much to do. Install the trans, change the position of the crossmember, shorten the driveshaft, install a convertor control for the over drive. B&M makes a really nice set up for that overdrive. The one in my Monte was really great. I change out to a TH400 because the car is going for strip only and no highway. Good luck.

 

The problem is that there's no place close that I can get my drive shaft shortened. I live in the middle of now where! haha

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cleveland clutch and joint could build you a driveshaft and ship itto you ,i will help with if nessasary.

im sure there has to be someone that would do the same on your side of the country.lol

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the converter control has nothing to do with the overdrive.

(i only say this, because I've run into a LOT of people over the years that are under the misconception that the o.d is 700r4 is electric.. like fords)

 

 

700r4 will shift into o.d just fine even if you never hooked any electrical up to it at all.

 

however, driving for long periods with the converter unlocked can generate excessive heat in the trans and that would lead to bad things.

 

it's up to you how you go about it but, my personal feelings are that I HATE a 700r4 that locks up AS SOON as you hit 4th. it's very irritating actully, and very hard on the torque converter clutch. I use a toggle switch on the dash that feeds through a mid 80's car's brake pedal switch that includes a TCC switch so it will unlock as soon as I touch the brakes.

around town, I almost never use the tcc... on the freeway, I turn it on.. and leave it on.. and adjust my driving style to match smile

 

the ideal setup would be a window switch with a MAP sensor.. so when you let right off the throttle and vacuum spikes way up, or when you get into it and vacuum drops off, it will automaticly unlock for you.

 

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Probably one of the best upgrades you can do, if you set it up correctly. If the driveshaft thing scares you, use a 200-4R. That is a direct fit with no modifications with a better gear split.

 

You can make the torque converter clutch do whatever you want. I have mine set up to only lock above 55 mph, unlocks at 50, unlocks when my vacuum gets below 5", ie stepping on the gas. I have a heavy duty 3 disc clutch so I can lock it under full throttle and it acts like a 5th gear.

 

With my 4.56 gears, it runs 2000 rpms at 55, 2500 at 70.

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I'm in the process of getting a 200-4R rebuilt right now. I went with the 200 over the 700 mainly for the sake of not having to mess with cutting the driveshaft down and for the more even gears. I did get a lot of upgrades and hardened parts for i though too so that it'll be strong enough to hold up for my setup as well as my future setup. If you go with the 200 definitely get the hardened parts though as they weren't built to handle much over 300HP from the factory. I'll let you know how mine goes once I get it back from the shop and get it installed.

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I think I will go that route (200-4R) some day vs repairing my 150,000 THM350 that's starting to leak again.

Bruce

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My boss used the 200-4R in his 70 442 Convertible. Running a built 455 with tons of torque and HP, no issues over 10 years now, and he beats on it! If its built right, there should be no issues

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the 200 and the 700 are comparable in strength once they are built properly smile it basicly comes down to the choice of the deep 1st gear or not. but I hear a lot of people talk about how they don't want that big step in ratios.. but have never actully driven a healthy v8 with a 700. even with my mild 300hp smallblock, I don't even notice the difference in the 1-2 shift... in my old astro van with the gutless 4.3lv6.. yeah.. it was really obvious. (van had a 2.3x axle.. monte has a 3.55)

 

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