ScottNM Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I am considering draining out the 50/50 mix from last year and saving it. For the late spring through early fall I would go pure deionized water with a couple bottles of water wetter. Is that too overboard? Has/does anyone else do that? I guess 15 degrees cooler engine probably. Would like some feedback before I commit. The antifreeze was installed early fall last year so I will put the same fluid back in later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I've used 50/50 mix in mine the paste years, on a 100° day and the elec. fans it would see 210° going down the highway and 220° in traffic(not nice). During our down time from car shows and cruises, I did a heater core swap, 50/50 mix again with a cup full of water wetter and add a stock style clutch fan. From my testing out in the garage with the motor idling it has hit a high of 190° which is a perfect temp for my car. I've read where guys used deionized water, remove the t-stat and have no issue with water temp. If you plan to hit the drag strip alot of tracks like their racers to use water only in case they blow up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I guess I don't get why not run coolant, say 50/50, all year long? Lot's of corrosion can occur in six months. Coolant raises the boiling point as does pressure on the system. If this is a pure race car, then I get it because we used to drain the hot water out and refill each run then drain it all when finished for the day. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I use a 50/50, all year long also. Funny thing about the cross flow radiators whether being a standard or a serpentine cross flow. Last time I had my daily drivers radiator re-core; even though the radiator's flow was good, I couldn't believe the amount of corrosion and gunk build-up on one end. Mostly on the inlet end, yet it flowed ok. It had periods where it would run hot in bumper to bumper traffic. I happen to get a bird's eye view while they were taking the tanks apart. The funny thing the old timer doing the re-coring; a skillful young lad, happen to mention being a cross flow style, they're prone at plugging at that end. What amazed me even more the method of turning my "three" core tanks into a "four" core tank, he just simply spread them to fit the wider core & presto! A dessert cooler! Talk about running cold now. Would you believe $80.00 for the whole thing including radiator R&R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottNM Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 I do not race much but do have a 500hp bbc. I quess my thinking is, like in transmissions the higher the heat, the shorter the life. I know its not as intense with engine but if I can run a summer operating temp of say 190 instead of 210, it seems that would be better for long term life of this engine? It is a long term investment. However, if the pro's thing its insignificant, I am listening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I guess that means I should be looking into getting my rad checked. If I start driving before I reach operating temp water temp will usually go up to 240 then drop suddenly. I have gone through 3 different thermostats and it still does this. Even after the temp drops it will eventually start to climb slowly. I have a 170 degree thermostat in it now and it will still run at 200+ and its a 3 core rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Running hot is a difficult problem. If it's old, I agree the rad could be partially plugged. Fan (de-clutching type?) may not be working properly. Fan shroud in place? temp gauge, factory, aftermarket, is it really working correctly? Where is the sending unit located? Is it dumping out coolant when it's hot? Lower rad hose collapsing because inner spring is missing? Timing retarded? If it's not spark knocking and puking out coolant, is it really overheating? Just some thoughts. Good luck! Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmanabba Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 One thing that antifreeze does is lubricate the water pump seals. If you want to run straight water then the life may be shortened. If you run water wetter I believe it has the necessary additives to lube the seals. Water wetter also will have an anti-corrosion additive. Having said that I personaly wouldn't bother with draining your current fluid if everything else is in good shape you should have no cooling problems. I tried the water wetter/water combo one year in preperation for a trip to Hot August Nights in Reno one year in my 1967 Firebird with a Pontiac 400 and saw about a 5 degree on average drop in temps. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I have a 50/50 mix right now and use that year round. Fan is a stock fan without clutch though I am looking for one of those. I will lose a bit of coolant every time I drive it so I suppose it has to be getting too hot. The cap is less than 2 years old as well. Rad hoses are still original which I will be replacing soon and the lower hose still has the spring in it. Its an aftermarket gage that when I installed it worked fine then. Could be timing, will have to look into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 I used to run 50/50 and the temp never got over 175 with a 160 T stat. That was cruising at 70mph and 3200 rpm. I run water and a product called No-Rosion now. It runs about the same temps. Some tracks do not permit antifreeze, and if you do get away with running it and dump some at the track you will not be very popular. It is hard to clean up and really slippery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichG Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I have a 50/50 mix right now and use that year round. Fan is a stock fan without clutch though I am looking for one of those. I will lose a bit of coolant every time I drive it so I suppose it has to be getting too hot. The cap is less than 2 years old as well. Rad hoses are still original which I will be replacing soon and the lower hose still has the spring in it. Its an aftermarket gage that when I installed it worked fine then. Could be timing, will have to look into it. If you are not running an overflow bottle, the radiator fill line is about 2 1/2" below the neck to allow for expansion. If you fill it to the bottom of the filler, it will puke every time. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Did not know that. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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