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engine breakin


jacob

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I remember when you first posted on this site, and I thought you had a long way to go. I am very impressed with your spirit and progess as you started and now move through your project. Nice work Jacob!

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Here it is we got all 3 montes for $1500 got the title and he brought it for us on a roll back we tryed to pay him but he woudnt take any money. The car your looking at has hardly any rust exept for the top wich we have a perfect one to put on so not a issue and the fender has a little rust at the bottom but is very much fixable.

 

just to let you guys know I was looking at a very large wasps nest... I used 2 cans of wasps and hornet spray and knocked off 4 nest crazy they still managed to hold on and get to my house.

 

image_zps8eb1a440.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had to tear the motor down frown it was running good then it did a real light skip and not to long after that it was blowing steam out the back. So we let it cool down I pulled all the plugs and # 2 shot out water and antifreeze so we knew it was either a cracked head or a head gasket... kieth put his pressure tester on the radiator we waited and waited but the clyinder was dry as a bone so we restorced the heads ( all the bolts were a little loose ). we ran it again and no steam no skip pulld the plug and no water. The next day it was full of water again pulled the head took it to mike found it had been repaired before and discovered a new crack in it so i just decided to get a brand new set of aluminum heads I had wanted from the start. mike gave us a deal on those aluminum heads they are $1200 and hes letting us have them for $700 so hes taken off $500 which is twice what we paid for the old heads. Im glad it wasnt a cracked block or a pin hole. grin

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Keep up the good work Jacob. You have made a ton of progress so far and you've already learned more about these cars than I have. You live in a great area for classic car parts and for working on them. Good luck with the new heads and the rest of the restoration. That's one great looking rolling chassis. smile

Cheers,

Larry

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thank you guys so much for your comments they mean alot to me. I got the new cylinder heads on and one the bolts wouldnt tighten down so we will have to pull it again and retap it. Im so glad we did a chassis crank it just makes it so much more easyer to get to this stuff.

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I have a question about the points on my orange car we put new points in new coil and new rotor button. we have fire from the points but not to the spark plugs we've tested the coil there is 12 volts there what else could it be? Shot Howard owned the car before I did and he hooked up the jumper cables back wards and it burned up a fuse able link to the starter. My guess is either we have a bad rotor button or distributer and as far as I know the cap does not have any cracks in it. confused

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Ok this might sound stupid, but is the rotor going around when you crank the engine? Pull the cap and actually look as the engine turns over.

 

As for the coil, it's common to hook them up backwards: the positive (+) side should be hooked up to the power supply, and the neg (-) side goes to the points. Make sure your points are adjusted so they both open AND close. When the points are closed current flows and fills the coil; when the points open the coil discharges a spark. You can unhook the points wire from the coil and replace it with a length of wire that will reach a ground...with the key on, the coil should throw a spark when the temp wire is removed from the ground. The points are just a simple switch that turn on/off that wires' connection to ground.

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Ok this might sound stupid, but is the rotor going around when you crank the engine? Pull the cap and actually look as the engine turns over.

 

As for the coil, it's common to hook them up backwards: the positive (+) side should be hooked up to the power supply, and the neg (-) side goes to the points. Make sure your points are adjusted so they both open AND close. When the points close, it triggers the spark. You can unhook the points wire from the coil and replace it with a length of wire that will reach a ground...with the key on, the coil should throw a spark when you touch the temp wire to ground. The coil basically fills up when the points are open then fires a spark when the points close. The points are just a simple switch that turn on/off that wires' connection to ground.

 

no wonder I could never get my car to run right, I always thought that the coil fired when the points opened!

 

also, please explain how "the coil fills up when the points are open"

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no wonder I could never get my car to run right, I always thought that the coil fired when the points opened!

 

also, please explain how "the coil fills up when the points are open"

 

Wow, I was close LOL.

I had a 50/50 chance of getting that right. I corrected the above text.

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