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Fuel drains from carb after shutdown?


Murphy

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I've installed a new stock fuel pump (3 line), new clear fuel filter, had the qjet rebuilt, and new rubber lines replaced. I was hoping that after all this new equipment it would stop the fuel filter from going dry 10-15 minutes after I shut her down. She runs fine, great in fact, but was this common with 40 yr old cars, I can't remember?

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It is a problem with this new gas as most of mine do sit from time to time and you have to spin it over and over.My 40 Ford conv I have 2 97"s and they dry up after a couple weeks.I know because I rejeted them and the bowl were dry when I took them off.So the corn gas does evaporate

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  • 7 months later...

Eureka! I think I've discovered the fix to this fuel draining issue........I was talking with a 2 older (65+) mechanics the other day who have a shop near me (they happen to be brothers), I was inquiring about the AC conversion to R134. Their eyes just lit up when they came out to the parking lot to see the Monte, anyway, they both commented "Nice to see your still running the quadrajet, they're a great carb if you have them set right.' They asked me to start her up and she's idling a little choppy, as if there were a big cam but smoothes right out once over 1000 rpms, both looked at each other and said "Your airhorn has a bow in it and its sucking air" They proceeded to tell me how to fix this problem. Mike (the older of the 2 brothers) then asked, "Does your fuel filter drain down after 15 - 30 minutes after you turn her off. I said that it did. He said you fix that airhorn just the way we told you and you'll solve that problem also.

So, yesterday I pulled out the Q-jet book, pulled the carb off (which was rebuilt last year) and proceeded to remove the airhorn. The airhorn for inquiring minds is the top section of the carburetor. They told me to use a steel straight edge and with the airhorn upside down, lay the straight edge across the airhorn deck from left side to right side. If there's a gap in the center of the airhorn you need to sand/file the outside edges to get it as close to level as you can. Also using the straight edge from front to back of the airhorn. After some filing and sanding and thoroughly cleaning, I had the airhorn ready for re-assembly. Mike and Johnnie both told me to use some white lithium grease and a small paint brush and very evenly laydown a THIN layer of grease on top of the new gasket. Paying close attention not to allow any globs of grease to fall into any of the openings thru the gasket. I did all these steps very carefully and reassembled. She idles like a different car, I even backed off the idle screw slightly. I then went for a short cruise (10 miles) enjoying the new 4-speed EMENSELY, by the way. And to my surprise this morning the fuel filter is full, I turned the key over and she pops right off. So it looks as tho I've 'killed 2 birds with 1 stone' as the saying goes.....

Also, one key point they both made was the way the airhorn should be tightened down. Install all the screws only to a snug position, including the 2 bolts, then starting with the center 2, start tightening down all the way around. Do this 3 times to get everything the same tightness.

The main cause for airhorn warpage is that people tend to way over tighten everything, especially the aircleaner wingnut as it is pulling up on the center of the airhorn. Good luck!

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That's way cool, Murray! It's a great feeling to finally solve a long-standing problem, especially with the advice of some old-school mechanics! The Q-jet on my 454 SS does the same thing so I will add that to my list when I rebuild it this summer. It also has the fast idle problem that is being discussed on another thread.

 

Glad you are enjoying your "new" 4-speed! I really miss mine since I had to leave it parked in FL all summer. Thanks for sharing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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