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MCfan last won the day on May 12

MCfan had the most liked content!

About MCfan

  • Rank
    Gold Member
  • Birthday 03/20/1947

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Punta Gorda, FL (winter); Crosslake, MN (summer)
  • Interests
    Hunting; shooting (skeet, sporting clays, 5-stand); re-loading (metallic pistol/rifle, shotshells); chess; cars (my '70 Monte Carlo) and anything mechanical
  • Legal Name
    Dennis Bengtson
  • Occupation
    Retired Management Consultant

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  1. Sold my '70 SS to another club member today. Sad to see her go but it was inevitable. Loved owning, driving and working on her for the past eight years but since I had averaged less than 200 miles a year driving her, it was time to let someone else enjoy her. Going to hang on to my '70 4-speed in FL since I get to drive it much more down there. Owning a first gen SS is a unique experience - one I will always treasure.
  2. MCfan

    Wheel bearings

    I used Motor City by Federal Mogul in my '70 4-speed and Timken in my '70 SS. No issues with either brand.
  3. Just type "295x50" into the Search Box and hit Enter. A couple of threads will come up on this subject. Here's one of them: LINK
  4. MCfan

    Wheel and Tire Data Base.

    1970 Monte Carlo SS454 Front: Stock15x7" rally wheel; 245x60-15 BFG Rear: Stock 15X7" rally wheel; 245x60-15 BFG
  5. MCfan

    Wheel and Tire Data Base.

    1970 Monte Carlo Front: 15x7" rally wheel; 4.5' back space; 255x60-15 BFG (1" spacer in front coil prevents rubbing) Rear: 15x8" rally wheel; 5" back space; 275x60-15 BFG (3/4" sidewall clearance with fender well - no trimming or rubbing)
  6. Antione, I believe they were all semi-gloss black like the frame (both of my '70s are) but someone that does factory-like restorations (LS5, Overdrive, etc.) will surely answer this for you. I checked a list of GM A Body Paint and Plating guidelines that I have but it does not specifically list the components you asked about. In case you wonder about the original paint/plating of other engine bay components, I will paste the list I have into this reply below: GM A-Body Paint/Plating Information All of the General Motors engine compartments are very similar. Each division may have made small changes to suit their individual applications, and each have their own engine colors, but the major components color of parts, and plating that are used remain essentially the same. I would emphasize that research is the key. When you take your engine out for rebuilding or detailing, photograph the components before they are disassembled. Remove the parts and note whether they are plated, painted, or just natural. When the car is being reassembled the parts should be returned to their original condition. Through research it's been discovered that the following components should be restored as shown. Naturally there are always exceptions for a given year but these can be used as a guideline. Accelerator rod, accelerator lever: Black oxide. Alternator: Natural aluminum finish, no paint or plating. Alternator fan: Zinc plated (silver). Alternator pulley: Silver cad plated or gold cad plated (depending upon the application). Most plating shops can handle either application. Battery box hold down clamp: Semi-gloss black. Brake distribution bracket: Cadmium dichromate. Brake lines: Natural steel, no paint or plating. Brake line clips: We've seen these clips in natural finish, black oxide, and zinc chromate (green) finish. Clutch cross shaft: Gray phosphate plate. Clutch linkage parts: Gloss black finish. Clutch fork: Natural steel finishes that can be painted with cast-iron spray paint. Clutch return spring: Natural steel or gray phosphate. Clutch return spring bracket: Natural steel finish. Control arm cross shafts: Semi-gloss black enamel. Control arm bolts and large-end washers: Natural steel. Control arm adjustment shims: Natural steel. Engine accessory braided ground strap: Natural, no paint or plating. Engine dipstick handle: Natural steel finish. Exhaust manifolds: This is another area where the GM divisions differed. According to restoration sources, Chevrolet exhaust manifolds were over-sprayed when the engine was painted. According to Pontiac sources, Pontiac engines were painted first, then the exhaust manifolds was installed. Whatever the case may be, if you are going to drive the car, any over- spray that may be sprayed on the exhaust manifolds will bum off quickly. Exhaust manifold locks: The exhaust manifold locks were natural finish unless the exhaust manifolds were painted; then they were over-sprayed. Fan blades: Fans on GM cars differed from brand to brand. Some divisions, like Chev, painted the fan and blades black, while other GM divisions used natural stainless fan blades with black center hubs. If the fan was a clutch-type, the clutch was natural aluminum with a gold cadmium center. The clutch shaft and spring are natural finish. Fender bolts, fender bolt washers: Black oxide. Frame or sub frame: The frame and sub frame on all Sixties through Seventies GM muscle cars were painted semi-gloss black. Some restorers like the frames a little more on the shiny side, while others like a flatter finish. There are a lot of different formulas for this and different paints you can use. Most restorers use acrylic enamel or acrylic urethane finishes with a flattening agent for frame components because of their durability, One formula that you can use is as follows: 3 qt. PPG Delstar mixing black 1 qt. flattening agent PPG DTR601 quick-dry reducer Front springs: Natural metal. Fuel lines: Natural steel finish, no paint or plating, Heater/heater shroud: Semi-gloss to gloss black lacquer. Generally, more shine than the engine compartment. Hood hinges, hood latch, hood catch, hood springs: These components look like they are natural finish, but they were actually gray phosphate plated. This process is available from several plating companies. Upper and lower alternator brackets: Most pulleys and brackets used on GM cars were painted semi-gloss black, but there are some exceptions to the rule. Research your particular car because on some GM brands, individual pulleys could have also been gray phosphates, zinc, or cad plated. Some of the GM divisions also used large aluminum brackets that were natural aluminum in color. Horns: Gloss black finish. Horn relay: Natural, no paint. Ignition wire dividers: Black plastic. Inner fenders, firewall, radiator support: As with the frame, there are many different formulas that can be used to achieve a semi gloss black paint to match the factory finish. Some restorers like to mix their own paint to get the shine they desire, but. many restorers also use a premixed PPG paint for their engine compartment. We have used PPG 9423 lacquer on our cars and it is about as close as you can get to the factory finish, We usually buy it in quart cans because that's enough to do a complete engine compartment. Many of the spray can manufacturers (e.g. Krylon, VHT) make a semi-gloss black that also looks good on engine compartment components if you don't have professional spray painting equipment. If you have spray equipment here's another custom lacquer formula that you can use: 2 qt. PPG mixing black #386 1 qt. universal flattening agent 1 qt. mixing clear #3 10 PPG DTL16 thinner Master cylinder: Most of the GM cars came with natural finish master cylinders. For a lasting natural look, they can be painted with cast-iron gray paint, which is available from a variety of sources such as The Eastwood Company, VHT, and Krylon. Master cylinder lid: The master cylinder lid should be cadmium dichromate (gold rainbow cad This type of plating is available from several sources. The master cylinder bail clips are natural metal. PCV- hose clips: Black oxide. Power brake booster: All GM power brake boosters were cadmium dichromate. The two companies mentioned above can rebuild and re-plate your power-booster. Power brake hose clips: Black oxide. Power steering pump: Gloss black enamel. Power steering brackets: Semi-gloss black enamel. Some brackets may actually look like a cross between semi-gloss and gloss black. Radiator: All GM cars of this era had Harrison radiators that were painted gloss black. Radiator cap: Radiator caps were not painted, they were plated. Radiator shroud: Radiator shrouds should be left natural plastic. Some shrouds on early GM cars were steel and they should be painted semi-gloss to gloss black. Shock absorbers: Gloss gray enamel. Steering box: The cast-iron portion of the box is natural finish. The access lid is natural aluminum; the bolts are black oxide. Stabilizer bar: Depending upon the GM division, these can be natural or semi-gloss black. Stabilizer bar brackets: Depending upon the GM division and supplier, the brackets can be semi-gloss black or natural. Tie rods, steering components: Natural steel finish. These components can be painted with clear or cast-iron colored paint. Voltage regulator cover: Gloss-black enamel. Water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley: Semi-gloss black, some crank pulleys were cast and left natural finish. Some water pump pulleys on early GM muscle cars were zinc plated. Windshield wiper motor: Gloss black finish.
  7. MCfan

    Dash light out.... (circuit board repair)

    Wayne, Following are some instructions for removing the dash which I believe were written by one of our members: Just take your time and don't try to just force any part of it. The dash pods in our cars are VERY BRITTLE and will break if you just look at it wrong. Here is what I had to do: 1. UNHOOK BATTERY then Remove the dash pad 2. Unbolt two lower and three upper dash bolts (corners of the dash and near defrost vent) at this point the dash will be a bit easier to move but not even close to come out. 3. I cut a 2x4 to use as a small wedge and removed the a/c duct above the climate controls and placed the wedge there to hold the dash out about 1 1/2 inches from normal. That is all I "needed" but would have gone a bit further knowing how tight it all was 4. Remove the headlight switch knob by pulling it out to the on position and pushing the button on the side of the switch mechanism and removing. 5. Remove the switch itself by removing retainer from the knob side. It can be unplugged and put to the side until the job is done. 6. Remove the small ground wire from the drivers side of the rear of the gauge pod 7. Now you can remove the under column cover and then the screw on the lower side of the steering column that retains the gear selector wire and unhook the clip and leave it hang. **REMEMBER THIS IS THERE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE GAUGES OR YOU WILL BE MAKING EVEN MORE REPAIRS** ask how I know 8. While you are down there, remove the two bolts that hold the steering column in and support the column so it does not get bent. 9. Above the column, at the lower side of the gauges there are two 1/4 fasteners that need to be removed. The connect the gauge pod through two metal supports into the lower dash 10. Remove the three fasteners at the top of the dash pod (rear) and I believe two that are down the sides. 11. Remove the wire harness by depressing the clips on the sides and pulling it free, be careful not to rip the printed circuit, then if you have the factory clock remove the adjuster from the dash side with a small screwdriver 12. Pull the dash forward a bit and reach down the back and unhook the speedometer cable by pushing in the retainer and removing the cable Your dash panel should now be free from anything holding it there, make sure I did not miss anything by looking carefully around the perimeter and you can now carefully guide the dash panel out of the dash. You may need an extra set of hands to keep wires out of the way when you get near the speedometer mount and don't forget you have that clip hanging at the bottom
  8. MCfan

    Dash light out.... (circuit board repair)

    Wayne, Converting your idiot light instrument cluster to a full gauge cluster is a very worthwhile project and complete kits, including the other circuit panel, all the gauges and extra wires, are readily available on eBay. What was missing from the otherwise excellent kit I bought several years ago was a good set of instructions. I wrote up a detailed set of instructions after struggling through my conversion project and had it verified by Darren Bull (LS5) who knows our dashes like he invented them (maybe he did). When you get ready to convert your dash, you may want to review my project photo journal at this LINK and then shoot me an email with your address so I can send you a Word file with the detailed instructions. BTW, you may want to consider converting to LEDs when you do this conversion. Good luck.
  9. MCfan

    Build sheets

    Brian, No, the salvage guy I know and use is in Cleveland, FL since my '70 4-speed lives in Punta Gorda, FL. I have found Jeep parts at a salvage yard in Brainerd, MN but have not searched for any first gen Monte parts there. I can stop by there when I'm in town next and see if they have any first gen power steering setups, if you want.
  10. MCfan


    Bob, your wish list is much like mine was ten years ago. It took some patience, luck and a couple of healthy checks to fulfill my dreams then and I expect it will be the same or greater for you now. The good news is that I have seen at least four excellent specimens on your list (three SS454s and one 402/4-speed) come across our forums in just the past few weeks so they are definitely still out there. Of course, there are also several other guys with your same shopping list out there right now, too. You'll know when the right one surfaces and, based on my own prior experience, you will need to act very quickly and decisively to snag it for yourself. I bought both of my '70s over the phone and contacted one of those sellers within minutes of his listing being posted on this site. Good luck!
  11. MCfan

    72 bucket seats

    Wow! Beautiful work and end result! You can be justifiably proud! Lots of satisfaction in having a project turn out so well - congratulations!
  12. MCfan

    white ceramic piece

    Roger, I think your suggestion is probably correct. The headlight "switch" is also a dimmer for the dash lights (by twisting the knob when it is pulled out) so it has a rheostat that has a wire-wrapped coil around a ceramic core. Although I've not seen or heard of that before, I'm sure it is possible for a piece to break off and it would naturally fall down on the left side of the driver's position. I can't think of any other source of ceramic material under the dash in that position but maybe there are other possible explanations.
  13. MCfan

    Build sheets

    Brian, My '70 4-speed Monte was built without power steering and that is also reflected in box 34 on its Build Sheet (photo below). My '70 SS was built with power steering and had the code "DE" in box 34 of its Build Sheet. I see the '71 Build Sheet uses box 32 for the power steering pump and pulley code. There is a fairly common misconception that PS was standard on first gen Montes, but it was not, at least on the '70. It's not only possible to add factory power steering, it is fairly straight forward. You just need to get all the additional parts together (pump, mounting brackets, pulley, belt, hoses, fluid, etc.) and swap out the manual steering box with the power steering box. I did this on my '70 4-speed because it was an absolute bear to parallel park or maneuver in any tight place without using both hands on the wheel and still shifting the transmission. I got my power steering set up from a local salvage guy who was parting out a couple of first gen Montes. There is a low cost rebuild kit that I first installed before mounting the pump. The most difficult part of the conversion was finding the correct high pressure hose. The salvage guy wanted my manual box for his '70 442 since he was driving it with a power steering box that was not hooked up to a pump so the manual box was "easier" (no kidding!).
  14. MCfan

    Manual Transmission Montes

    1970 408 (402 .030 over), M20 4-speed, 3.31 posi, Astro Blue/Dark Blue vinyl, black vinyl buckets
  15. MCfan

    master cylinder

    Sorry guys, I didn't mean to mislead anyone. Both of my '70s came to me with Delco Moraine master cylinders WITHOUT the bleeders. One was built in Baltimore the other in Van Nuys. Also, the re-manufactured Bendix replacement I bought for my '70 SS did not have them. I would be most happy to have a master cylinder with the cast-in bleeder ports and valves, regardless of originality or brand. It is often difficult to tell what is original and what has been replaced on our cars when we are not the original owner with good records or recollections. Also, as someone else pointed out, assembly plants were sometimes known to use functionally equivalent parts that were not identical to others. This makes it difficult to claim absolute "originality" on many features of our first gens, IMO.