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MCfan

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MCfan last won the day on December 11

MCfan had the most liked content!

About MCfan

  • Rank
    Gold Member
  • Birthday 03/20/1947

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  • MSN
    dbengtson4@comcast.net

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Punta Gorda, FL (winter); Crosslake, MN (summer)
  • Interests
    Hunting; shooting (skeet, sporting clays, 5-stand); re-loading (metallic pistol/rifle, shotshells); chess; cars (my '70 Monte Carlos) and anything mechanical
  • Legal Name
    Dennis Bengtson
  • Occupation
    Retired Management Consultant

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  1. MCfan

    adding OEM A/C to non A/C

    Sendo, that looks exactly (except for the snazzy chrome finish) like the one I used when I installed the Classic Auto Air system in my 402 '70. I simply cleaned repainted an original 3-groove pulley that I picked up at a swap meet for $5. I am not in the same location as my '70 454 with factory A/C right now so I can't check that pulley or belt configuration but the 1970 Assembly Manual shows the following belt configuration for the crank pulley: the alternator runs on the larger outboard groove and the water pump pulley; the power steering pump runs in the center groove; and the A/C runs on the inboard groove. If you don't already have one, I strongly suggest you get the 1970 Chevelle/El Camino/Monte Carlo Factory Assembly Instruction Manual. It will be invaluable for the project you are doing and many others. You can get one on eBay at this LINK. See page 160 for belt configuration and pages 450- 517 for RPO C60 air conditioning. Good luck.
  2. MCfan

    Air Shock Problem

    Strangely, I've been burned twice by parts transactions with other members and once with a "reputable" auto parts supplier, but never with eBay. At least there you have an impartial arbiter and lots of leverage to get disputes settled, usually in the customer's favor. The cardinal rules of ethical business: 1. The customer is ALWAYS right! 2. If in doubt, see Rule 1.
  3. MCfan

    Not Monte related but one of my projects

    Very cool, Larry! If you need an address to send that to in FL, I'll give you mine. My lanai could use something like that ... 😁
  4. That's a great looking ride Darren, especially with the Buick wheels! Being more spacious and comfortable is a real bonus, too. I don't know where or how you consistently find the cool vehicles you do - you either have a special talent or good connections - possibly both. I remember when Chevy brought out their first Impala in '58 and all the great muscle car versions beginning with the 409 in '61-'64 followed by the 396/427/454 big blocks from '65 on. I believe the first SS was in '61, also. I must admit I haven't followed them in recent years but I'll bet yours probably has the 300+ hp V6 in it which would make it as quick as many of its gas guzzling predecessors. I remember my brother-in-law's '62 Impala 409 4-speed averaged 10 mpg - but sure was a lot of fun! Hope you enjoy your new ride and experience improved health during the holidays and new year.
  5. MCfan

    Gear Vendor O/D install with TH-400

    Looks great and sounds exciting, Alan - nice work! I love projects that increase the versatility, performance and enjoyment of first gen Montes without messing with their classic beauty. Hope you are able to wrap up this worthwhile project without major hitches. You probably won't be testing it out until spring anyway, so no major time pressure. Thanks for sharing - keep us posted.
  6. MCfan

    repairing clock

    Paul, Intermittent failures can be very frustrating. You know the clock works under certain conditions but not why it stops working. I would suspect a faulty electrical connection (i.e. bad/dirty contacts) or a mechanical binding in the works. I assume the clock hands (especially the second hand) are free to move. Can you observe anything in the works that may be causing it to freeze so the electrical power cannot overcome it? Whether the coil is either good or bad should be revealed with a simple continuity test. I suspect the contacts, especially since you observed blackening after initial cleaning. Are the contacts able to close fully? If they are held slightly apart or even lightly touching, they could possibly arch, causing the blackening you see. Can you carefully adjust or bend the contact arm to make solid contact? I obviously don't have a clock in front of me and it's hard to see from the earlier photos. Sorry I can't be of much help since I've not see that problem before.
  7. MCfan

    WTB OEM PW set up

    Thanks, Darren, that's very thoughtful of you! I'm not desperate to get '70 switches as my current switches work great, but if someone wants to install a factory system in their '71/'72 when only a '70 system is available, I am certainly willing to swap. It would be a minimal amount of work and expense to have a win-win situation with another member. Of course, reproduction '70 switches are readily available, but I see no need to spend that much just to have "year correct" switches in my '70 4-speed. It still looks original in most respects but has so many internal modifications and option enhancements beyond its Build Sheet that it will never again be an "original".
  8. MCfan

    WTB OEM PW set up

    If anyone wants to buy this system for a '71 or '72 Monte, I would be happy to trade my '71/'72 square cornered switches for the rounded corner '70 switches in this system. I completely refurbished my switches and their contacts so they all make good electrical connection. Also, my switches exhibit very little chrome pitting which is a common problem. Just let me know ...
  9. MCfan

    WTB OEM PW set up

    I paid $400 plus shipping for mine but that was six years ago. I'm sure I've seen two very large collections of salvaged Monte Carlo parts advertised on this forum in the past year. I have to believe that there are still plenty of the original systems out there. Maybe you should search the forum for salvaged first gen Monte parts and also contact Leo Konik at leo@koniksklassiks.com or (810) 334-4162. I would expect eBay prices to be much higher, probably even more than the new non-factory systems at $799. If you find a reasonably complete original system, remember that they will be 46-48 years old so you should plan to disassemble, clean and re-grease the regulator gear boxes and also refurbish each of the door switches and their respective connectors. You will likely be very disappointed in their performance if you don't first refurbish the mechanical and electrical components and also liberally grease the guide rollers and tracks.
  10. MCfan

    repairing clock

    Paul, As I recall, the inside of my clock was neither dirty nor gummy. However, if it had needed major cleaning, I almost certainly would have sprayed it with either Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber or Break Free CLP Powder Blast which are both excellent degreasers. I clearly remember lightly lubing each of the bearing/pivot spots in the repaired mechanical mechanism with Break Free CLP Cleaner/Lubricant/Preservative (as shown in slide 31 of the photo journal). I suggest location specific lubing rather than general spraying so you don't overdo it. It is obviously critical that the balance wheel/gear and spring are correctly set in their jewels at the axle ends. The adjustment screw can be backed out enough to reset the wheel axle ends on their jewels. Be sure the pin in the balance wheel hub is engaged with the fork of the pivot arm before resetting the adjustment screw and that it still moves freely without binding or wobbling. This was the most tedious part of the repair for me. The stiff gears may be gummed up with old lubricant but. like most clock mechanisms, the compound gears create such low speed ratios (compared to the electric motor rpms) that it is impossible to manually move any gear in the chain. I think the best you can do is be sure the coil has continuity, the electrical contacts are clean, the balance wheel is in register and moves freely and each of the gear shaft ends are lightly lubed, You should be able to bench test the clock with nearly any 12V DC source. I installed my repaired clock in my other '70 several years ago and it still keeps accurate time.
  11. MCfan

    WTB OEM PW set up

    Hey, Darren, good to hear from you - hope you are feeling some better! I purchased my '71/'72 complete factory power window system from Malibu 400 several years ago. I believe he had two at that time and has offered at least one more for sale since then. I don't know if he has any right now but he seems to have a source or is stripping first gen Montes himself. Maybe you can PM him and see if he has any right now. The system I got from him was very complete, including the harness, door grommets, switches, relay and all four regulators. Of course, I installed it in my '70 4 speed so the square-cornered switches aren't "year correct" but they work just fine. If you can only find a '70 system and the round-cornered switches are in working order, I would be happy to swap switches with you so we will both have the correct style for our respective years. Just a thought ... BTW, other than installing factory power steering, installing those factory power windows was by far the most useful modification I have ever done to either of my '70s. I literally use them every time I take the car out here in Florida.
  12. MCfan

    Exhaust manifolds

    Chris, you may have already made a decision but, if not, since fitment and ground clearance are top priorities, I suggest you also consider full-length headers with 1 3/4" primaries and three inch collectors like the Doug's Headers D313. Depending on how you drive your Monte, I doubt you will ever need or benefit from full-length headers with 2" primaries and 3 1/2" collectors . In fact, the smaller headers will almost certainly produce more torque in that size engine and the smaller tubes also make plug changing easier, offer more clearance (and less heat) around the starter and oil filter and provide more ground clearance. I don't know if you were on the forums when Crazy Davey was active here (he has since passed) but he was a very respected drag racer of BBCs and strongly recommended the D313 headers for street driven Montes. He even ran them on his wife's '72 "W code" 454 with a Straub cam. They are a bit pricey but the only reason I did not go with them on my modified 402 was they don't fit a manual transmission Monte (the #7 tube sweeps back against the clutch bell crank). I replaced a pair of tuned (equal length 2" primaries) ill-fitting, full-length headers of unknown origin with a pair of Patriot H8012 ceramic coated mid length headers because they work with manual transmissions. I am super pleased with them because the 1 3/4" primaries allow me to change plugs easily and the increased clearance has completely eliminated the former "heat soak" problem with my factory starter. Also, I have plenty of clearance to replace the oil filter which used to require a pry bar and several Houdini moves. The only issue I had installing those headers was that I couldn't find a head pipe with a tight 45 degree elbow to connect the collectors to the mufflers. I ended up fabricating my own but a muffler shop with a mandrel bender can also make them. I also replaced the 2" factory exhaust system with a very basic 2 1/2" system from Summit. I think I now have a more attractive and effective over-all exhaust system, as well as, solving a couple of other problems in the process. Bigger is not always better ... Good luck.
  13. MCfan

    WTB 1970 Monte SS

    Congratulations, Sendo! I bought my '70 SS the same way ... only from photos and telephone conversations with the seller. I jumped on it within an hour or two of it appearing on our site but, even so, I was second in line to a local buyer. I went ahead and made an offer and won by only $500. There may be a number of little things you'll want to correct/change, but that's the fun of acquiring a pre-owned classic - making it your own. You may even have a twinge of buyer's remorse when you actually see the car, but it sure looks like a reasonably solid survivor in the photos. I was really disappointed in how absolutely filthy (primarily dirt and road grime) my SS was when I picked it up. The engine compartment, interior and trunk had all been neglected but a lot of elbow grease and shop rags later that was resolved. I see your rear bumper needs to be realigned just like mine did. I went ahead and refurbished the rear bumper and brackets and may have a project photo journal on Photo Bucket if you're interested. Enjoy your new ride ... nothing like finally scratching the "SS itch"! 😄
  14. Just wanted to share my recent experience on cleaning up a nasty oil spill on my driveway. The villain in this story is a broken plastic line to an oil pressure gauge mounted under the dash of my '70 Monte Carlo. The hero is an amazing product I found at Walmart (of all places!) called NviroClean. If you are not aware of this product (as I was not) you may want to give it a try the next time you need to remove oil or grease drips/spills on a garage floor or driveway. It is a light, dry powder that is easy to apply, sweep up and even re-use. A 2 pound bag costs $4.97 and should last a long, long time under normal conditions. The story: Upon returning to my Florida home for the winter in late October, I prepped my '70 4-speed for weekly cruising and errand-running and took it for a brief shake down trip around the neighborhood. I soon smelled hot oil and saw some smoke coming from under the driver's side so I knew there was a minor oil leak somewhere. An initial investigation revealed engine oil on the driver's header collector and head pipe going back to the muffler. It looked like it might have oozed from the rear of the valve cover gasket on that side so I tightened all of the cover bolts evenly and then crawled under the car with spray de-greaser and rags to clean the existing oil from the exhaust system. I called that good, thinking (foolishly) I had solved the problem. A few days later I hoped into the Monte to head down to the monthly Swap Meet at Muscle Car City. She fired right up and I carefully and slowly backed out of the garage and down the full length of our recently re-paved driveway confident that I had solved the burning oil problem. However, when I pulled off the highway just two miles latter at the swap meet, oily smoke began pour up outside the driver's door and coating the window. Now I knew I had a major oil leak because I saw an even, solid line of fresh oil on the pavement where I had just turned off but I was unsure what the failure could be. Subsequent inspection revealed that the small plastic oil line from the block to the oil pressure gauge under the dash had somehow contacted the driver's side header collector and was melted onto it. That was obviously the cause of the original burning oil smell. I did not see that when I was de-greasing the exhaust system and apparently snapped the now brittle line off just in front of the header. That allowed engine oil to be pumped in a small but steady stream onto the driveway and street all the way to the swap meet. I quickly placed a secure plug in the oil pressure port in the block but now had a major mess to clean up from my driveway. To say my wife was upset that I had "ruined" our newly re-paved driveway would be an understatement. I needed to remove the spilled oil but that is almost impossible on porous cast concrete pavers. I tried soaking the line of oil with liquid de-greaser and then a concentrated Dawn solution followed by pressure washing with a turbo nozzle at 2800 psi but a deeply ingrained oil stain was still very visible (see photos). Remembering that I had successfully used clay kitty litter to remove a large gas/oil mixture spill from a concrete storage unit floor in MN, I went to Walmart to get a bag of that to try next. While at Walmart, I suddenly remembered that I had seen a special oil removal product in the automotive section several years ago. A Walmart employee helped me find this product they now carry called NviroClean. I was a bit skeptical but the bag said it was more effective than kitty liter and could be re-used up to five times plus it cost less than kitty litter so why not try it. Yesterday was the first cooler, lower humidity day we've had in SWFL this fall so I went to work applying the NviroClean product to the ugly oil stain on my driveway pavers. I just rubbed it into the stain using leather gloves (because the pavers are fairly rough) and then brushed it in thoroughly with a stiff plastic bristle scrub brush. I left it to sit overnight and when I vacuumed it up this morning, all but the faintest trace had been removed! Best of all, my wife was so pleased with the results that she let me out of the dog house with a stern lecture about never letting that happen again! I hope other members will give this product a try if they want to remove oil drips or spills from their driveways or garage floors. Following are a couple of before, during and after treatment photos:
  15. MCfan

    Replacement dash lights - LEDs

    Paul, You will need 15 sockets and LEDs to convert your dash cluster. Actually, you may not need to replace your original sockets as the new LEDs will plug right in but I wanted to remove the exposure to bad connections if the old sockets had any corrosion. There are now many sources of the sockets, LEDs and even complete kits of both on eBay. Several years ago, I could only find them separately. I had to special order the 5/8" diameter sockets through a local auto parts supplier because they only stocked the 1/2" diameter sockets (which absolutely will not work). I ordered a package of 20 white 5-LED bulbs from eBay in order to have some spares. You can get them now from many sources including Amazon at: 20X White 5-LED Bulbs You may want to consider ordering a couple of the 10X kits of both LEDs and 5/8" sockets from eBay: 10X LED/socket Kit There may be other kits or sources for colored LEDs but I wanted white because my '70 dash has the light green fluorescent markings and numerals. Of course, you can also buy special LEDs (like Superbrights) individually if you want to mix colors and/or intensities but the cost will go up significantly.
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