Mo's70MCs

From the description it sounds like vacuum leak to me as well, I'd make sure to have a steady and within the range of 17 – 22 inches of mercury. A stock motor should read within those readings.

Thanks for the reply Denise. One can't be too careful specially when it comes to pieces that can be easily lost or damaged. Outfits out here in Ca., because of the EPA and state regulations(RoHS directive) some shops seem to be less interested in providing a decent service. The smaller Mom & Pop shop are getting harder to find and a great many are no longer in business and have thrown-in the towel. I'm not sure what has taken place but the chrome finish of yesteryear is difficult to find. It has to be attributed to the restrictions imposed on these outfits? The three step process once used is not likely to be used in all remaining shops. Good to hear about Tri-City's favorable results, it may be that I need to start using someone out of state, before the art is totally lost.

Nice, they look amazing. Are you 100% satisfied with the chroming finish? Some chroming outfits skimp on their process, mostly on the prep. At $75.00 a piece did they do a good job?

it does extend into trunk area. If you look closely you can see the round holes that you can see from under the trunk.

Try here see if this helps? linky browse through the whole thing or the categories on the side.

I think that cap and rotor kit (Accel:GM HEI - Red - part # 8141R) would be much better if in fact.. had it been molded from mica-filled & glass-filled polyester rather than a cheap run of the mill plastic the dielectric strength of the cap would be much better. I'm sure it's not long before they get wind of the inferior quality of the "Cap" material and they come out with a better cap. Maybe the problem lies in the crossover terminal encapsulation within the cap, it is in fact a congested area as Mark points out. It's funny that a Co. as big as Accel would fly on the cheap and not invest more into R&D.

Chinese made crap.. I hate that junk!

I like it, beautiful color choice.

Nice! Couple of observations..nice pass, you smoked him.. nice white Chevelles..both of you sporting the "Woodpecker" and Red has gotten better at holding the Camcorder or you finally invested in a tripod. Nevertheless a great pass, I kept trying to determine who's reaction time was faster. It looks like you?

I've heard stories warning you about being careful when working with the front suspension springs. Relating to the possibility of death.. Cmon that's a bit far fetched and somewhat of an old wives' tale. I have always used a (decent) floor jack, under the lower control arm being careful, after I have loosen the press fit of both ball-joints from the spindle, (leaving castle nut loose on the upper) I start by working with the lower control arm releasing the compression/tension of the spring until all, usually most tension is released. Then I pull the spring away, there's some tension that remains when you lower it wide open (having the car nice and high on stands is important) but none that will kill you. Once you pull the spring it's wise to use a spring compressor for easier installation, not that you have to, but it's wiser to. Because I have managed to R&R a spring without ever touching a spring compressor. Now from experience I will be the first to tell you, you'd be foolish not to use one, cause in fact it makes the job much easier. To me tying the spring is a step you could do, practicing safety I suppose. Though If you live on the edge as I do. I'll toss that step right out the disassembly sequence.

Good thing Scooter, cause the suspense is killing me.

I don't see anything ugly either, on the contrary I see that as a work of art. The 18+ years of darkness & silence, left alone & abandoned. That's ugly for sure.. Progress is good!

I wouldn't unless you want to pay double and wait an eternity for them. Now if you want them shipped to your front door.. linky otherwise use Tony's method. Though your local parts store may not have them in stock, or may send you to will/call to pick them up nearby. Moog, or TRW, McQuay-Norris, Raybestos, AC Delco, to mention a few?

If you have to replace the two piece seal? A tool I've used in the past with wonderful results. It "removes the upper half of the rear main bearing seal without dropping the crankshaft ... removing tool works like a corkscrew." Sneaky Pete is a product of Lisle Corporation, Clarinda, Iowa.

You know the English & Germans have been toying with the wooden interior idea for a while now.

Good luck with it Romain.

You say it idles fine, but push the gas pedal and it starts acting up? I'd say you need to narrow down the problem, you say you replaced the carb, did it have the same problem prior to the carb change? If so, first you don't mention if you replaced the points "condenser" one that would give you some awful running if it were faulty, much like what you describe. A carbon tracked & cracked cap, would also make it run like crap, and at times intermittently. Though you say you've changed that. All the info given above is very valid, specially if it has sat for a long period of time. The octane value of fuel would not have the adverse running conditions you're are experiencing. You have, I believe with the vague info you describe, something related to ignition timing, a firing order issue (crossed ignition wiring) or a valve train issue. I would do a compression test on it & set the timing statically, to see if it has a timing chain issue. Have you done anything in the way of a valve lash adjustment? That done wrong, would have you pulling your hair. Don't overlook the points condenser. Narrow your problem down, by doing a double check on every component, and make sure you adjust and understand one before checking the next. Is it popping and coughing out of the carb, and does it do it out the tailpipe?

Well! because in my past life I was a fireman. because you hate French speaking people and are waiting on the first to ask. cause should an emergency arise you want one within arms reach. cause you're axe murderer and having one close to you keeps you at bay. cause you don't give a damn about the strange looks you get, even though you keep close adherence to the rules of forceful entry. cause you're close kin to Brawny, and a firm believer in keeping wedges and axes handy. cause your chaps are in the shop, and your tool shed is overfilled.

Nice! Nothing like the finished product.

You're right!! T60 Option.. side post H.D. option. I haven't heard from him. Let's see what happens?

Are you sure? I'm coming up with different #'s. I'll wait see what he says.

Sam... I need to dig-out a part# My reference manuals are elsewhere right now..do you have G.M. #'s handy? I have a friend that has a large inventory of O.E.M. cables..I believe at one time they were Delco Packard, although I don't think it applies to the Monte. I'll check with him.

It is a side post..correct? How.. original do you want these cables? With G.M stamping on them? I have someone but I might have to place a call..

Sit Down! linky better than a cover from OPGI.

Lost in translation.. I read that and couldn't make "navia aut caput" out of it.