Sam (Bones)

I don't know much about auto trannys, but when I gang second in my 400, it hits hard and fast, but I had it professionally built for racing

Rebuild what you have!

very nice!

TSC, the '70 4 speed I had also used it

that will be fine I ran a -10 (5/8") stainless braided (nylon inner) pricey and a pain, it was when I had the 12:1 468 in it

good thing someone there knows how to work on a monte

I wouldn't stainless braided line is a pain and expensive, your factory steel line...if in good condition...is the best way to good unless you NEED! a larger line, and if you have the 3/8" steel line...I highly doubt you need anything larger unless you're pushing close to 550 or more horse power

http://cliffshighperformance.com/

more bottom end torque, street engines spend most of their time from 1000-3000 rpms, yes they take short blasts to 5000-6000, but really....how often? for a spunky, fun street car...1000-4000 is where you want your best power, and when I say power...I mean torque, I could give a crap about horsepower, torque is what you want bigger tubes are only going to help in the way upper rpm's and 2 1/8" tubes are way too big for anything under 500 cubes unless it's built for extremely high rpm's I have 2" Hookers, wish I would have went with 1 7/8" tubes, I also have a 3 1/2" exhaust which I'm thinking about removing in favor of a 3" or less more is not always better esp with a internal combustion engine my burnout video below....that's a 12:1 (yes 12:1) 468 ci spinning at 7000 rpm with 2" tubes thru a 3 1/2" exhaust

1 3/4"!!!!!!! I have 2" on my stout 10:1 454 and wish I would have went smaller, esp on a street driven engine

I run a 180 stat on a 10:1 454 with 3.73 gears, I also run electric fans only it runs down the road at 170 (auto meter gauge mechanical) without the fans even turned on now when I stop the temp rises and the fans kick on at 210, start moving and the temps start to drop and the fans turn off at 185, even in the summer heat it runs 180 while moving no fans

orange

if you are going to install the Pertronix kit, make sure you buy/use their coil for it, I know many that have had the Pertronix fail and the common thing was the coil

most Q jets likes the idle screws out 3-4 turns

replace it

points!

that's the 724 hp version too!

how about this one

ALSO...the pressure needs to be checked with the AC running, if you watch the front of the compressor, you should see the outer hub of the clutch spinning, at 45 degrees the system may not come on but if you use defrost, the clutch should kick on

I have very good results from inline tube, I've used them on 2 different montes so far, yes you may need to tweek them a little

water sprayed in the carb is one of my favorites, it takes a lot of water to do it

I totally agree The carb needs to come apart, you have a float/needle and seat issue I would also pull ALL the plugs out and let the engine dry out

as Tony said, I would add another or a heavier spring

Does it still do it if you disconnect the throttle cable

with it being a Dominator 3 circuit carb, I would try a larger intermediate air bleed, when cruising that's where it's pulling fuel from, that may also help lean WOT A/F ratio