Rob Peters

Hope everyone going to the Western Meet will have a great time..... I am sure they will because I am aware of what a wonderful job Aaron does on planning and hosting the Western Meet all of these years. Aaron, Thanks You so much for taking this on every year. You will all be blessed with fantastic weather and beautiful views on your driving cruise and while parked at the show. God Speed.... and we hope he does not get any speeding tickets. rob

Went to a local car cruise and met up with one of my Johnson & Johnson co-workers. rob

Dale, I found the following information in this link( http://phscollectorcarworld.blogspot.com/2015/04/gm-body-restoration-guide-interior.html ) : Not sure if it will help you out or not. rob Headliner Bows: This last bit of help is really for the do it yourselfers who want to install their own headliners. I often see headliners installed so poorly by these Tear [censored] Bubba car flippers however that you often need to re do the whole thing right. Frequently the fabric is loose in some areas and too tight elsewhere. The ear muffs often are baggy and loose. Another common flaw is sections of headliner that aren't arced correctly, Ninety nine percent of the time they've installed the bows in the wrong order. Here in lies the secret. Each bow is color coded from the factory to show installation order from front to back. A body headliner bow sequence From Front- Blue, Pink, center thinnest no color, Pink -Orange, Green-Pink. I have a nice pic from Joe Petrik showing the bows and the color code sequence from front to rear of roof. From the front his was marked Blue, next one was Pink, the center rod is the thinnest one one with no hooks, often no paint daub, the rear ones are Pink-Orange followed by Green-Pink. Install Tips Mark your pieces as you remove them. Now, on an older car you'll often have rust build up on these bows. It's a good idea to removed the rust with steel wool but mark your rods before you take away all the rust. Be sure to mark them so you know which one goes where. Also, do not paint those rods. They were bare for a reason. It makes slipping them through the headliner fabric listings easier. Once you paint the rods, the loops inside the fabric listing tends to "grab" the rod and it causes bunching of the fabric all along the way. Very time consuming to straighten out. Remove the rust, by all means but don't paint the rods. This will go a long way towards ensuring a nice installation. * Article © 2015 by Patrick Smith. Images by PHS MEDIA ARCHIVES except last one which is courtesy of Joe Petrik archives.

I was cleaning out some old dead posts and came across this one from 2010 and thought it should be re-shared. rob

You won't actually see the Mercury switch because it is completely encased into the housing. The lights get their ground from being attached to the hood or trunk so you could clean up those connections. With a volt meter set to read DC voltage, raise the hood or trunk and remove the bulb. Connect the voltmeter black lead to a good ground point on the car and touch the red lead to the silver or brass spring loaded contact recessed in the lamp socket. You should read 10 to 14 volts. rob

Very nice Larry, congrats!!! rob

This is a link to the one Jim is talking about. rob http://www.luttyschevy.com/search.html?#!year%3D1970%7C%7Cmake%3DCHEVROLET%7C%7Cmodel%3DMONTE%20CARLO%7C%7Csxq%3DRSDG10030971

I don't know of anyone who sells them as a full assembled assembly. rob

Looks great!! rob

Looks beautiful Aaron. Thanks for all of the work and planning you have put into planning this meet. The success of any meet is the number of people attending but if not enough pre-meet work and planning are not done the attendance will reflect that. Thanks for all you do for the club!!! rob

Well, not Monte related but I got the Model A out for the first time this year. I started having issues with my starter awhile back and have been having to start it by pushing it (tearing my Achilles Tendon in the process with surgery scheduled on that June 27th) or using the hand crank to start it. Recently I found out they now make a modern style starter bendix so I ordered one and installed it today, took her for a ride and then flushed the radiator and block and refilled it with distilled water. rob

Satin or Simi gloss rob

Rick, I think a lot of it is trial and error. I'm not sure how Tony did it but if it is just a swap of hinges, I would try marking yhe hood and fender around the old hinge for a good starting place. I remember helping Scott install his hood and I guess we got very lucky because I don't remember it fighting us much. His Brother in law was also there to help which may have contributed to making it easier. rob

Just sanding off the rust and primer and paint it as close to the finish color. Be sure ro tape over any electrical contacts. rob

If it works and can be freshened to look nice I am always for using original parts because they hold up better than repo parts. rob

I just did the same thing a few weeks ago. rob

Bruce, my 70 350 2brl is exactly the same. From experience I know if that small ground wire to the fender is missing, broken, loose or corroded where it attaches to the fender all of your lights will flicker when the motor is running. rob

Two keys here and the first one is that you are planningoing to replace it in the future so why not go ahead and do it now. Key number 2..... Ryan, with as much as you have put into this car and engine, why take a needless chance or risk. rob

Very nice Aaron!! rob

Pulling the fuses one or two at a time was going to be my suggestion. You say you did that for a day for each fuse. You may want to give each one a little more than one day. To divide and conquer try this..... Pull half of the fuses and let it set for a week and then check the battery. If it does not drain reinsert those fuses and pull the other half and do the same. If either time you get a drain pull half of that group and do the same. You did not say if you have a trunk light and under hood light. If you do remove the light bulbs. Sometimes those mercury switches don't shut the light off and that could cause a drain. rob

Looking Good Doug... Post more pictures once you get it out into the sunshine. Almost ready to cruise!!! rob

I don't understand why a float issue would only fill #8 with fuel, who can answer. Just a thought. Once you find the cause I would recommend draining the oil and replacing the oil and filter because with that much fuel sitting in #8 I suspect some of it would have to seeped into the oil pan, etc rob

Doug, that is all any of us hope for when we start a project

Looking good Doug, can't wait to see the final results. rob

Regarding the solenoid.... That is an idle dropout solenoid. One of the purposes of that solenoid is this. When the key is turned on that solenoid will energize (extend slightly). When adjusting the throttle idle this solenoid is energized and at the end of the solenoid is a bolt head that screws into that solenoid that is used to adjust the idle speed. When the key is turned off the solenoid deenergizes which moves the throttle below idle speed to help prevent engine runon (dieseling) after the key is turned off. I am not sure what caused the gas in cylinder 8 issue. Maybe a valve issue. I am sure some of the more knowledgeable engine guru's may help on that one rob