Rob Peters

Thanks Sam.... definitely a late 70 production year vehicle but I was already aware of that due to the label on the drivers door. Not sure when they started changing the line over for the 71 production year. Rob

I am pretty sure others have seen their blocked slightly different than their VIN number. I have noticed the same thing on mine. The engine block stamping ends in 205023 but my VIN ends in 205043. Has anyone found this on their car? Rob

I thought we had an engine decoding link in the Technical area but I could not find it. Could someone decode mine? It is T0609CNN

Lookin Good Dave. Looks like the weather is agreeing with you. Bet you wish you had my orange chair with the umbrella and leg rest for your days at the beach. Rob

I am not sure what you are referring to. I am not aware there would be any limits to something like this. Rob

Having the paint code is a good thing if you are going to do all of the interior. Over the past 41 to 45 years the original paint has faded so your best bet is if they can get a reading from an existing part and match it that way. Rob

Steve, You say it is flashing very fast. Is this only with the trailer wires hooked up to the trailer? I remember this happening to me on my original Monte but only when my trailer lights were hooked up. If this is the case, you may need to get a heavier duty flasher since you have the extra current draw of from the additional lights. Rob

This is what worked for me. I was having the same issues with Microsoft Internet Explorer and switched Google Chrome... all issues disappeared. Rob

Possibly bad vacuum line to the distributor spark advance/retard. Sounds like spark may always be advanced and that is why it runs ok at a higher speed. It needs to retard more at lower. Not sure if that is what is going on but it may be one of the possibilities. Rob

Good evening all. I had not looked through all the pages of this Mugs post in quite some time and in doing so I found quite a few of the posts missing the pictures due to the age of the posts and the picture hosting sites having the pictures having been removed so the links no longer working. I noticed an old post from Capri saying she had removed all posts with missing pictures. Over time this has happened again with close to 50 posts with missing pictures or posts refering to pictures that are no longer there. I have gone through all of these posts and removed these old useless posts. You can scan the Mugs and re-post a more recent picture if you want. Here is a list of members whose pictures no longer show up in this MUGS post. There are many very old pictures also so you may want to check your old pictures here in MUGS and post a newer picture. A couple of these are Ian and Capri.... your kids are so small in these pictures. The list of members whose pictures no longer appear in their post so I have deleted those posts so if your name is below you need to re-post a new picture of yourself. Sam Michales Jared Richey Scott Stephens Steve Wagner Robert King (ERT) Laurent P.O.S.racer Rob

Thanks Sam. Once everything is cleaned up and painted I will be able to start reassembly. I will have to think about if I want to install them as is or coat with a stainless or silver heat resistant paint, what do you suggest. Not sure if they make a heat resistant clear coat paint. One of my concerns with using paint is if any oil or gas got onto the paint it may loosen it. Rob

Thanks Bob. Rob

I need the color of several things in the engine compartment. The first thing is the Exhaust Manifold bolt locks. There are four of these bolt locks. There are two on each side. There are six bolts that hold each manifold in place. These bolt head locks are on each front and each rear bolt pairs. They are shaped in an arch which arches over the manifold and has a tab which folds over the side of the bolt to lock it into place. I am not sure if these were painted the orange engine color, black or if they were natural metal color Whatever color they are I will need to get some heat resistant paint. The second item is the head shield which wraps around the bottom of the passenger side Exhaust manifold and is held on with three rivits. This head shield is to shield the starter and starter solenoid from the exhaust manifold heat. I suspect this was painted in simi-gloss black but not sure. The third item is the stove pipe saddle.. This is also attached to the exhaust manifold and is a seat for tube which runs from this saddle to the air cleaner snorkel. I think the color of this, if I remember correctly from my original Monte, was heat resistant simi-gloss black paint but I am not positive.. If anyone has any thoughts on the color of these items please let me know. I know the spark plug heat shields are the natural metal color. Thanks in advance Rob

It looks great Al.. Can't wait to see it in Carlisle. Rob

I love your Parking Brake ERT!!! I used to drive a Volkswagon that had the same brand of P-brake. rob

Sam is correct, they are not reproduced yet But...... someone here figured out a way to make them from another seal. Unfortunately I can't remember who it was. If I can find their post I will let you knnow. Rob

I thought you had decided to wait to have the rear quarters during the winter months. Rob

Al, it has been awhile but to bleed the rear brakes, I think you will need to press and hold that P-valve Button in during bleeding. It doesnt depress very far, onlu about 1/8th to 1/4 inch depression. Rob

Bruce, I feel the pictures you have posted here on the site have been very helpful to many people here. I don't know of anyone here who has documented their restoration with near as much detail and pictures as you. Thanks for your attention to detail. rob

Bill isright!!! rob

Scott,Don't forget, pictures are a reverse image so wouldn't a frown really be a smile? Rob

I agree with Jim. Believe it or not I even use Pledge Wipes on my engine compartment, they work great on the hoses, inner fenders, fan shroud, really most anything under the hood and most but not all interior parts. Rob

I highly recommend you NEVER use Armorall on any interior parts. It eventually gets gummy and sticky and does nothing but attract dust and grime. rob

Abe, if you have never removed a rear seat bottom you are in for a treat. Sometimes they pop right out but sometimes they can be a real bear but that will definately be the hardest part. Aaron was correct when he said you need to push in on the bottom of the seat. Just to add to what Aaron advised... for better leverage move your front seat/seats all the way forward. Also, as you push the bottom of the rear seat (Spring Steel) toward the rear of the car you will also need to lift up on it to release it from the retainer bracket. You will need to do this on both sides because it locks into a bracket on each side. Rob

Ronnie was a great guy. He always had a smile on his face and was always good for a funny come back for whatever had been said. Ronnie drive his First Gen Eastern Meets no matter where it was so we named the Longest Distance Driven Award after him. I can allways see that infectious smile in my minds eye. Rob