Paul Bell

Yes Steve, that's how I learned of them.

They look pretty bright. A little costly. Has anybody see or used them? https://easyperformance.com/products/chevy-monte-carlo-sequential-led-taillight-kit-70-72?fbclid=IwAR086D5OvDK0G-MF53aWHmquj8gqieb1suN7PjXp-alyypka6EoNz6ZhjW0

The headlights are powered from a 12 gauge red wire in the dash that also feeds the ignition switch. This red wire is powered from a fuseable link fed from the horn relay. The headlight switch has a circuit breaker in it. The short instrument cluster lighting fuse is 4 amps.

You'll need to find a buddy with a 1971~1972 Monte so you can pull the emblem off and make a template for the holes. And yes, the lock cylinder is installed before the emblem goes on.

Any decent speaker is gonna want 100 watts. I don't know of any in dash radio that produces more than 15 watts or so, even if they claim 50. There's some good compact amplifiers on the market, Alpine has a few.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XR1701/Kenwood-Excelon-XR-1701.html?tp=105 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html?tp=105 https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/KAPPA463XF-.html?dwvar_KAPPA463XF-_color=Black-AM-Current&cgid=speakers#start=1 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SA69/Scosche-SA-69-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html?tp=2824 https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t1s-1x10p/

I can recommend what to look for and what to avoid in speakers: Avoid oval speakers, they have a lot of distortion from the cone being twice the mass on the long sides. These cone auto speakers are small and they have no problem reaching up into the midrange frequencies. There's no need for anything more than a two way design, a nice woofer and a single tweeter. IOW, a two way design. I love these "four way" speakers that have just a tiny silver dome as a tweeter next to a bigger tweeter but it's just for show. Find a speaker set with an external crossover in a small box. It'll have the needed chokes, caps and resisters that tune and match the woofer and tweeter. The cheap stuff just has a cap for the tweeter. Unfortunately, this is only found with component speakers where the tweeter is separately mounted. To get around this, you can get a 6 x 9 adapter plate that takes a 6-1/2" round woofer and a tweeter mounted side by side. There's a handful of decent 4 x 6 plate speakers. Find a speaker with a substantial tweeter in it. A one inch titanium, aluminum or soft dome. It should have a phase disc blocking the center of the dome. Avoid a Mylar dome. A recent trend is to put two identical speakers side by side on a single plate. This causes all kinds of lobing at certain frequencies. Magnets and voice coils. Like some things in life, bigger is better. None of these speakers-even the big 6 x 9's, have any real bass. If you try to turn up the bass, you'll overload them and maybe blow them up. Get one of those compact powered sub cabinets you can hide away in the trunk. Then turn down the bass to the smaller speakers.

I used to have the correct hose saved in my PC, I think it was a Dayco but I can't find it. I certain it's one of these but you'll need to figure out what looks to fit best: https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=bypass+hose+for+1970+chevelle+454&form=HDRSC2&first=1&tsc=ImageBasicHover

You may be right Joe. This one is listed for a Chevelle. The clamps look like the ones I couldn't find earlier to post here. https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/CPH-1658.html

https://www.topflightautomotive.com/products/auto-accessories-of-america-1965-1974-chevrolet-corvette-water-pump-bypass-hose-396-427-454/

It's been discussed that there may be an F in the trim tag of Baltimore built SS cars. If you have an SS car from any plant, post here if you have the F code or don't have the F code. This is related to this thread (example shown):

This is very interesting information. If the theory pans out, SS cars built in Baltimore will have an "F" after the "B" thereby proving a true SS car. We would need to see a much greater number of SS trim tags with the F. My 71 Baltimore car, originally a 350 engine has the B but no F. Also, was this for Baltimore built cars also? Not to take away from this thread, I'm starting a thread that calls for those with SS car owners to look for the F code.

Greg, is the black one you posted yours?

I've discovered a slight problem-but it won't stop my work. The screw holes are further apart on my original. The mirror guts must also be different. I'm sure I can fix this.

I, and I’m sure a few others here, have been frustrated acquiring a right side bullet mirror. The usual way to do it is to get a bullet mirror from another vehicle and sand down the bottom of the pedestal and build up an angled gasket to get the angle right. This really doesn’t work well, the screw hole gets in the way and the mirror sits too low on the door. I have a “correct” one on my driver’s side, it’s a remote version. My idea is to have the pedestal scanned and reproduced by metal printing one-but in reverse. However, there appears to be two methods that the housing mounts to the pedestal. The top of my correct one is almost flat and the housing matches it. The two screws that secure the mirror in place also bolt the housing to the pedestal. The other type has a more pronounced stepped bump that keys deeper into the housing-and there’s an additional screw between the housing and pedestal. I can only find this type of right side bullet mirror. As the mirror screws holes are the same in both designs, I believe a reversed printed pedestal can be made to fit the differently mounted right hand housings. I’ll need to pay one company a not too small fee to do the scan then I’ll find out the printing cost from another company. After I’ve done all this and if it’s successful, I’ll be offering the pedestal to all here who wants one. Buyers will still need to acquire a right hand housing & mirror.

Whatever you do, use a roller camshaft. Besides no longer needing high zinc oil, the opening ramps are more aggressive. Engines are air pumps and need to breath.

It should be the same for 1968-1972 Chevelles so you can widen your search.

Thomas nailed it, I got mine out and in with 3" tails in place. Get that car up good and high, empty tank, get a nice blanket on the floor, plenty lights, no drinking the night before and do some stretches first.

There's been a few changes since this shot.

No SS emblem on the tail of the 1970 SS car, 1971 only item.

I found this on Facebook, not sure if the poster, Chris Deel is a member here. https://thenewswheel.com/behind-badge-cryptic-origins-monte-carlo-red-knights-crest/

Bruce, I know you're the original owner of this car. If you have the Protect-O-Plate, the key codes are on it. They're also on the build sheet. An old school locksmith with the GM books from back then will be able to cut your key from the code. It's actually a hand held tool that punches out the notches in the key.

As usual, I couldn't find anything on the market that I had in mind so I made my own from stainless angle. It ran the wires along the bottom edge of the valve cover. My last engine photo here shows the boots I went with, they're from a Jeep and hold the wire pretty far away from the spark plug-and header primary. This worked well except for plug #8, of course. I'm using Granatelli Motor Sports solid core zero Ohm wires. They have a ferrite ring on them that eliminates RFI. I use these wires on all my vehicles.

It sounds like your trunk cylinder doesn't match the glove box cylinder. Take it and the key you want to use to a locksmith and they'll re-key it for you. Do you have a center console in this car? If yes, it's lock cylinder should be keyed alike to the glove box and trunk. You can buy a new set of cylinders but you'll need an engineering degree and a rocket scientist as an assistant who doesn't mind cuss words to remove & replace the glove box cylinder.

Hey Darren, welcome! The fuse amperages is marked on the fuse box.