Paul Bell

My tank has wiring for a fuel injection pump and I incorporated the gauge ground into the harness. It goes to a stud on the rear frame next to the main battery to frame ground stud.

The 1971 assembly manual shows it going the the bracket this bracket-but I've always seen them to the body over the rear. I'd say the bracket is a better spot

The ground wire is kinda above the rear end. It terminates under a zip bolt to body.

After you get the unit back, before you install it, install the dipstick tube and drop the pan. The dipstick "full" mark is exactly at the pan rail. Make sure your stick markings match it.

Looks like a hydraulic cam. Bullet is awesome. Let's say you're making 475-525 HP and plenty torque. Have the new shop build the unit to handle 700 HP and you should be well set. Fully rollerized and maybe a 300m input shaft. I'm sure they can build a better torque converter than an off the shelf B&M unit. Have your weight, cam, rear gears, GV ratio and tire size for them to get it right. If you're still using the stock in radiator trans cooler, nix it, they can actually heat the trans fluid. Get a good stacked plate cooler to sit behind the grill.

No transmission should look like that with 4,000 miles, certainly not a TH400. Time for a rebuild-including the torque converter. What engine & power level? Who did the rebuild in 2016 and who's doing it now?

I actually have a bunch of printed catalogs, mostly that cover several years and models but they lack in some areas. I have a prized 1971 Chevelle Nova & Camaro catalog which shows every part. As the parts are no longer available, it’s mostly useful for verifying what came on a vehicle and what was shared between models.

Because I have plenty time to do nothing today, I looked up the nozzles. Just for searching, here's the 1971 GM car parts catalog page. I'd say the Chevelle uses the same nozzle. 454 Chevelles got a domed hood so they were different.

I'm not sure how this steering column thread ended up about rear ends but.... 🙄 Anybody else have a color matched column on their '70 SS?

Leo will have correct original ones for any year. Get what you need and wire brush them until they're shiny than maybe clear coat them so they stay shiny & new looking. https://koniksklassiks.com/

I'm trying to figure out why this is. Chevelles had different specs for the interior of an SS car buy the Monte Carlo did not. Maybe some assembly line workers used a black column on an SS Monte out of habit because they were accustomed to doing it to SS Chevelles.

Does anybody have a 1970 SS car with a color interior (not black) and a color matched steering column?

Welcome Mike! Is your car right hand drive?

It's interesting that both cars shown here have no AC. My brother would call these stripper cars "the poverty model". The radio delete plate was a Chevelle delete plate with a wrap on it. I envision the wrap like shelf liner with a sticky side. It looks to match the dash exactly. Too bad that material can't be bought.

We have a member here on Long Island NY with one, I can't remember who it is.

You can get these: https://www.opgi.com/sheet-metal-body-panels/body-trunk-braces/steel-cage-nut-assembly/cage-nut-54-77-gm-complete-assembly-716-14-thread-c241477.html

My block finally got some love at the machine shop, I guess my guy super busy Glenn is getting tired of me harassing him to work on it. Piston rings were filed to fit and cam bearings were whacked in place. Tomorrow I'll wash the block & drop in the crank and it'll come home to MCG. Waiting on smaller rod bearings and I can get the short block assembled.

This guy does it: https://www.lever-family-racing.com/lever-family-racing-home/control-arms-version-2/gm-f-body-70-thru-81

Yessir, they all work together for a 1970 car. I think the 71/72 master cylinder takes care of the duties of the two line valves used on the 1970 car.

Mike, unless you need clearance for big valve covers on a big block, you should stay with the original full sized booster. As your master cylinder looks to be the correct original with bleeders, you should have a local shop rebuild it. Any traded in rebuilt unit won't have the bleeders. There was a discussion a few months back about the valve you're asking about. It's a residual pressure valve to keep a few PSI in the line to the rears to prevent the springs from fully retracting the shoes. There's also a valve in the rear that slows the buildup of pressure which allows the front brakes to grab first. All 1970 stuff, 71 & 72 didn't have either valve.

They make them! https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspension/bushings-mounts/control-arm-bushing-retainers10/retainers-control-arm-bushings-detva42.html

5/16" bolt with 1/2" head, same as fender & radiator panel bolts.

The steering shaft on a Monte Carlo is unique, it's length fits no other car. If it has a bolted shaft, it's very likely it was a big block car. However, it could be a 402 big block car so it's not "proof" a car was an SS. Having said this, it is possible to install a bolted shaft pulled from a big block Monte onto a small block car so it shouldn't be the only proof that a car was a big block car.

The vinyl break molding clip locations look to have holes. Were the clips riveted on? The factory clips slid onto studs that were welded to the roof. A dealership adding a vinyl top might attach the needed clips with rivets.

With 500+ HP (and obviously plenty torque) you'll wanna use it. Go with a 200 or even a 700/4L60E and you'll find out pretty quickly why GM put nothing less than a TH400 or 4L80E behind a big block. Work with a performance trans builder and they'll figure out what torque converter stall speed you need to work with your gears. The later 4L80E cases have the coolant return line in the rear, it shoots fluid returning from the cooler directly into the center support bearing. This is a plus for your power level. You'll need banjo style cooler adapter fittings to clear the trans tunnel-but you may still need a little floorboard adjustment with a big hammer-nothing major. The banjo fittings are all over ebay. An external plate style cooler is always better than the stock style in radiator tank.