Mikstudie

The function of a shock is not ride height,although you can achieve ride height through them. The sole purpose of a shock is to hold the tire to the road. JMO but dont achieve ride height (stance) through your shocks. This is achieved thru springs,get the stance you want do alignment and leave it. That being said adjustable shocks that change the firmness of you ride for different applacations(ie racing,street) is OK. My cars stance was achevied will coil springs and I run Monroe sesatrac shocks..

These cars may not be my cup of tea.BUT THERE IS NO DENING THAT THEY HAVE SERIOUS CASH INVESTED IN THEM......

Rod,you got edited,welcome to my world. Damm what did I miss.......Now Rod you know not to be naughty..

Give Leo a call and see what he has available..

Lowrider friends we want to see more pics of your awesome Montes. Lets show these boring Monte owners what the other side is like...

On a stock car for street use just use Dexron 2 like the owners manual calls for. A pint of Lucas trans conditioner will help keep it running cooler...JMO!!! Its trans fluid in a stock car,dont over think it...

Dump the air shocks and install air bags in the coils,fixed all my problems for 70 bucks...JMO!!

also check,scratch check,just replace the module. Also check the wires leading to the module they tend to break...

For 200 bucks let him deal with the grief,your going to spend that much in coolant,oil and beer,plus days in your driveway.this is a no brainer,let him do it than if there are any problems there his not yours...JMO!!!

Had one on mine for many years,had a reciever so the hitch didnt stick out when not in tow...

Not sure about the orange wire or what your question is,BUT DONT cut any wires until your sure what it is.Until you know what it is just hide it and dont loose any sleep over it...If you have power to the motor and a GOOD ground (clean the ground bolt of paint) or ground with a test wire to the battery. Use a test light to check not only power but also ground. with test wires, apply 12 volts to motor and a good sure ground to motor to make sure it is a good motor.

Are you talking about the lower mounting bolts??? Dont tighten the lower bolts with the rear end hanging. Support rear end or lower on ground before tighting.Torque is not nessasary on this application,put the car on the ground or jack stand under rear end,take all the hanging weight off the rear end,install bolts and zap with a impact..

Happy B-Day to my money pit,not Trich,my Monte. As far as green she cost me 4067.00 new,not Trich,my Monte. Two girls that cost me money but I love them both,at least Trich gives me a good return, I guess the car does to...

You strait track racers are so pickie,just turn on the AC,put back the power seats,with Power steering and relax. Late 60's gear box.Malibu,Chevelle will work... Lube,80w90 I think...And replace the sector shaft seal before installing a used gear box,much easier when off the car...

What is this Z bar we speak of. All my parts came from the 69SS. Did I do a modification I dont remember? I am sure the only issues I had were ujoints and a front shaft yolk...I also remember making a piece of linkage for my cluth fork. I now remember welding work on the frame,is this the Z bar. All I remember is it took me about 2 hours to do this EASY conversion..

The holes n a MOOG ball joint are never threaded. Try a 8mm or 5/16 socket (not a deep well) and force it in.They make a larger greese fitting but Moog is normally spot on with there fittings,nuts and cotter keys.Grease fitting are self tapping..

My shifter bolts to the side of the rock crusher trans back by the tail shaft. I have a hurst short gate shifter,all other componets are from a 69 SS Chevelle. The OE auto drive shaft was the only issue I had,I needed to change the front yoke(rock crusher has a course spline)Ford parts Depot has a u-joint for the rear of the shaft,I had to change this to mate up with the 12 bolt pinion flange. cross member is from the Chevelle and I had to mount it backwards so the (CHEVELLE) trans mount would line up.Sounds complicated but its really not. Call or PM me if you need help and I will confuse you some more.. MOds I had to make were to u-joints and where the cluth pivot bolt to frame... MY FRIEND??? is doing this. I have heard that before,honest officer its my friends dope.. Are you sure its not your MOnte...

Congrats sweet looking car you have... Red one is nice too...

First thing I would do is get another flex line and see if it is different. I have seen this many times,eliminate the most logical cause before starting to pull your hair out. It's a aftermarket part this happens all the time. If that doesn't work get a brass male/female adapter, screw the adapter into the hose and the steel line in the other end of adapter. Brass is very soft and forgiving and genrally has a larger male flare surface. I have used this method on many applications.

Sits high but not crazy high. Are the upper ball joints good?? Are those 14" olds wheels??How many shims are there in the upper control arms.Looks like spring, ball joint issues to me.JMO!!!!

First of all,glad the sugery went well and your feeling good.Next very cool car,next we need rally wheels no white walls,next GREEN would be great,J/K, awesome rare car enjoy.. Glad you felling better....

Get well son Rob. Thanks Dan and stick around...

If you want better ignition with little cost go HEI.