Mikstudie

Spindles are left/right. Cross shaft??? Are you talking about where the alingment shims would go,if so there are the same. You have gone this far dont even think about NOT replaceing springs,if you dont you will kick yourself later..

Welcome Austin.. WE have a few jerks here to,I'll clue you in on who they are as time goes on. But rest assure none of them have GREEN cars..

HE!! ya we care. Wheels look nice,the cars stance looks good too. Austin did you ever think of getting the crome back around the wheel wells?? It would look good with the red..

Take out a second mortgage... Good Luck, we will help anyway we can. Keep us posted with progress pics..

your fax wont pick up,i have been trying all day. Iam heading north and wont be by a fax until next tuesday..

Mine runs best with the stock Quad a Junk, a good carb when working right...A bolt in the kick down cable does the trick,but then again I have a 4 speed. So my secondaries kick in as soon as I turn the key..

My thoughts exactly. Rob do you have access to a four gas anaylizer,that will tell you HC's and CO and tell you if your running lean,rich or the proper fuel mixture??

If the resonators are restricing the exhaust it will cause a super heat condition.You should not need heat shields,nobody else here does to my knowledge.Heat shields will only mask a serious problem that may cause valve damage in the long run.

I totaly understand your way of thinking and it would seem to make sense but it still should not heat the floor boards to the exstent that I think rob is describing.Car exhaust can reach temps of 500 degrees F. With the hottest points being the exhaust manifolods/headers, and the catalytic converter. Mufflers have good flow so generally they dont get that hot unless something is causing them to "super heat" as we call it. But of course what your saying makes total sense,with air running past the exhaust it has to run cooler. On modern day cars they install heat shields above the exhaust so that if the exhaust is super heated it will protect the floor board.Cars nowadays are more likly to overheat because of converter restrictions and improper fuel mixtures due to faulty engine sensors.It just sounds to me Rob that something is getting the exhaust to hot,I would still pull the resinators and see what happens. JMO and I was wrong once before,so I got a divorce and righted my wrong..

Good therory but i dont think so,the exhaust should only get so hot as hot as the fuel mixture running thru it(unless restriced).Exhaust doesn't depend on being air cooled,if so they would have cooling fins. JMO working with exhaust systems for 30 years.

Pull the resonators and see what happens. I always go for the most logical before going down different roads.I try not to over think a car problem,the answer is most likly staring you right in the face. Car problems are simple it's over thinking that gets you in trouble. Something is super heating the exhaust it cant over heat by its self unless there is a restriction.

Is the car running LEAN as far as the fuel mixture,if so that will super heat the exhaust system. New exhaust work? Are the mufflers getting a blue tint to them? Also a sign of lean fuel mixture. Sounds to me like the exhaust is getting too hot because of other reasons.JMO!!!

Larry I will put it in the mail today...

I have a diagram if you have a fax machine... give me a e-mail and I will try to send s a attachment.

I have a 17 page manual with diagrams I would be happy to fax or put in the mail for you. Do you have a fax or PM me your address. I cant put it in an attachment the program wont allow me.

Can you say $$$$$$$$$$ paint job. That owner has some bucks in that car. It's a first gen and a nice one...That looks like a 100K sitting there..Hats off to the restore job...You Cali. people are wack...

Try a different brand of u-joint.

Install Air Bags....

Jared, perform an isolation test to get you i the right direction.. Isolation test: Clamp both flex hoses to the front calipers,I use plastic hose clamps made for clamping brake hoses,(vise grips can be used but be careful dont get macho and clamp to tight) Clamp rear flex hose(one hose on our cars,two hoses on newer cars) Apply brake pedal,the pedal should be as hard as a rock. If not, Master has external or internal leak.(replace master) If pedal is hard have someone remove clamp from rear hose while you apply slight pressure to brake padal. When clamp is removed pedal should drop about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. If pedal drops alot,problem is in rear brakes,leak,air ect.... If pedal remains hard replace clamp and repeat with right front wheel and left front wheel in that order, always replace clamp before moving to next wheel. This procedure with get you to the problem area 99% of the time. _________________________

Worth every penny

You dont need the tools,all you need is air and a bottle of assembly fluid,same with wheel cylinders. The trick is getting the dust boot back over the piston. It's a lost art.After you get the dust boot started over the piston with proper lube the piston will slide right in. This is starting to sound like a porno!!

Yes,as long as the strap bolts are not rusted too bad.

If you have a bad ground it will peg the needle.Theres a wire where the sending unit goes in the tank that breaks often.

I thought you said you were busy. Looks super nice......

Must be nice...Great looking cars but the green one is by far the sweetest....