jft69z

That's one way out of the closet....

I actually have had trouble with the brass ones Jim, if you recall from my build thread. They were installed by me in the late 80's, engine was pulled (and drained of coolant) in the mid 90's and sat in a unheated garage for about 25 years. When I put it in the current 72, it started weeping out one of the plugs on the driver side. Engine had to come back out, and most of the plugs were compromised from the back side. Brittle/cracked/green corrosion, etc. I did replace them with another set of brass ones from Summit I think. As a side note, I also put the same brass plugs in the Z/28's LS6 around the same time way back then. Only difference is that one has had coolant in it the entire time. I'm hoping they don't fail down the road. I doubt they'll be a problem, mainly because the circumstances of the empty engine, etc.. With my luck, that'll bite me in the butt though, mainly because the engine has been out for the last number of months & that would have been a good time to do them. They appeared good though (as did the other ones, lol), but always submerged in coolant.

He'll take care of everything I imagine. If the engine needs to come out, it may be a good time to freshen it up a bit too. Or...replace it with something LARGER, 😁 (Snowball turns to avalanche, lol) You could always just replace the bad one, but to me, that's a giant gamble & ticking time bomb. Not the way I would approach this situation, nor most of the people here would suggest either, I'm pretty sure.

That's a freeze plug, and it's not leaking fuel. It is antifreeze. Your cleaning job may have just became a 'snow ball'.... If that one is leaking, there's a good chance more of them are going bad as well. There are some under the motor mounts, plus a couple in the back of the engine block, behind the flex plate/flywheel. Only way to really replace them is to pull the engine. I've done an odd one or two in place before, after engines have come back from a machine shop that leaked, but all of yours are probably old.

I use DOT4 in my vehicles. Used to be Castrol LMA (low moisture absorbing), but it's name changed years ago & harder to get. I just picked up 4 bottles recently, should last me for awhile. In the ZR1 I use Castrol SRF for the brakes and clutch, even higher boiling point, but pretty expensive. Any DOT 4 would realistically work, as it would need to meet the minimum standards for that class.

They always run great, right up to the very point they explode 😁

Not a problem at all Glen, car looks great!

These loaded up pretty good from your email, but they're already at a fairly reduced size.

blah, blah, blah...

Those Corvette snobs 😉 (Inside joke...Yes, I have one..)

We'd be more than happy to do that with you Mark! Better than being a ball washer 😁.

I forwarded the email to you as well Rob.

To get back on topic, lol.... I get an email from Carlisle events saying to look thru their photo gallery of 1076 photos. A whole 6 pictures of first gen Montes, on the next to last page. Multiple shots of the same blue & red Firebirds going around a track, or multiple shots of Fieros, Camaros, etc, but 6 whole shots of our cars. Seems like they just don't like us much....

The booster is sold.

"Smart sharks travel alone"....😆

You always hurt the ones you love.... 😢

Yes! I put the urethane on the glass, that ensures the entire window has sealant on it. Plus, that's how the glass installers I've watched do it. Get suction cups, a lot safer and easier to move the window around. I picked these up after the old ones I had dried up and made me nervous to use them. Appears they're unavailable now, but a quick search should find a good alternative. These were something like $21. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T59QX6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same here Mike, I never used the foam tape in the past either. Truth be told, it's not really necessary if you apply the urethane properly, but it didn't hurt either. The key is preparing the urethane applicator tip properly, and not drinking too much coffee first before trying to apply it 😁.

Something could be drawing excess current to be catching fire like that (compressor clutch or blower motor), dirty contacts/connections on the switches & old wires with high resistance could possibly cause heat (smoke) too. Check to make sure proper sized fuses are installed as well. Here are a couple of pics of the factory manual regarding HVAC. Disregard some of the highlights, they were from a problem someone else had.

Mike, I used the Belden speed site to do a little research, plus the factory manual & the glass install manuals below. I also got the foam dam tape from Belden for the install & have an extra roll if you need it. I've used both the butyl and urethane in the past with good results, but also have seen a couple of vehicles come in with butyl and the window just about popped out by itself (my last Custom was one as well, about 30% of that window was loose). Sika Training Manual.pdf Icarglass.pdf

I used to use 3M urethanes, but on this last Monte I used Dow Betaseal U418 Auto Glass Urethane & 5504G Primer. Worked fine with a good leverage manual caulk gun, though I have a Milwaukee 18V gun too. Nice stuff, I'd use it again.

72 doesn't have a coolant control valve in the engine compartment.

True though. Unfortunately one of them was discontinued last time I looked, and pricey...very pricey .

Those are the right holes. I think the one in the block is 5/16-18. One inch length would probably work good. I can check later when I get out to the shop.

Bottom pic.