overdrive

Dennis, I've made a few pair, but I don't like to. Fabricating time is very hard to find right now and they are more expensive to make than a used pair normally costs. I can maybe find a pair for you, if you want some help. This is a pair I made. Dan

A lot of parts there that don't fit Monte. Dan

Hi Steve. Welcome, and I hope your cancer treatment goes as well as my brother-in-law's did. He beat it and you can too. I can make the compressor brackets. I make them to look just like the originals and I can supply the layout for drilling the inner fender bolt holes, if needed. You can call 573-248-1389 anytime or email me at dpjfabts3@gmail.com. Dan

Thank you, guys. Hi Denny. I can make and supply the brackets. I copy my original pair so that they look and fit the same as the originals do. I start with 4 pieces of sheetmetal and I finish the welds to look like they were stamped. I've sold 2 pairs in the last week. All of my products come with a satisfaction guarantee. The brackets are $240 shipped to the 50 states. Dan Janes 573-248-1389 dpjfabts3@gmail.com

I got another message from a happy customer. These detent plates are doing very well. Dan

You're right. I got the first pair of '70 door panels they made and they were actually a cloth-like fabric where the originals are vinyl. I compared them when I noticed it, buy they fabric is a very close match to the vinyl. They fit so poorly that I couldn't even close the doors, and the heat seams on the vertical pleats were coming loose. I called and complained (with photos) and they had them picked up for the return. I offered to loan them my original panels to use for a pattern, which were in pretty good shape, other than being faded. They also paid for the shipping on them. My car has power locks and windows. When I got the replacements and the originals back, I checked the new panels and they fit well. I didn't open the box with the original panels until 5 or 6 months later, when I needed to take the stainless steel pieces off for the new panels. That's when I found that they only gave me back my passenger side. I assumed they wanted and kept the driver side because it gave them the locations for the lock and window switches. I should have called them and blasted them for stealing my door panel, but time had passed and I didn't. Dan

A wire wheel on a 4 ½" hand grinder will clean it up. If I had it, I'd do that and whatever else needed to clean up the backside and paint it silver. Good to go. Dan

It's right here in our forum. https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/forum/22-restorers/ Dan

Yes, the assembly plant codes should match. The rivet on your VIN tag doesn't look original. Dan

Yes, sorry. It's his photo. Dan

Joe, your "non halo" photo is an aftermarket top. Truly non halo. Dan

The partial VIN that is stamped on the deck is missing the first 3 characters. It should start with 1 for the Chevrolet division of GM, then a 0 for 1970, then an F for the Flint assembly plant. The 6 digits of the sequential serial number would follow. Dan

The correct part # is K870007. I've been asked often enough that it's stuck in my head. https://daytonairsuspension.com/products/valve-repair-kit-height-control-k870007 Dan

That's a shame. The carburetor return springs were possibly installed wrong and they went over center. I did that on my '57 Chevy in high school. The pedal stuck to the floor, but I shut it off fast. Lesson learned with no damage done. Dan