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Just because it says High solids does not make a good product. We have several different clears at the store I work at part time. The clears with activator range in price from $66 (USC #10)to over $300(Dupont Chromaclear #72500). The higher the cost the better the product usually. Nason(duponts entry level) products range $100 to $200 per gallon with activator. We have 5 different Dupont Clears. It is all in according to what you want. The Nason and USC clears are considered to be 3 to 5 year clears. I have seen these products last much longer if they do not sit out side in the weather. The best shine comes for the upper grade Dupont clears and most of them have lifetime warranties. Bruce(stangeba) more than likely has a whole lot more technical info than I have.

The rod just slides into the switch before you mount it to your column(slot is on the part that slides inside the switch). On my 72 I replaced my original column with a tilt column. When I went to hook up the plug for the wiring it was backwards, or so I thought. Took the switch off the non tilt column and put it on the tilt column and the column lock worked backwards. I had to switch back to the switch that come on the tilt column and twist the harness 180 degrees and all was well.

My copper gaskets do not leak thankgoodness

I do not remember the gaskets I used on my 72 when I had the headers powder coated last Dec. but they were copper colored. May have been copper I will have to ask my son in-law to see if he remembers.

If my memory serves me at all Friends Magazine was for new Chevrolet owners. I think I remember getting getting it for year after I purchased my 1970 Monte Carlo.

I really loved my 1970 Monte ordered Sept 20th 1969. I missed that car for 38 years until my wife bought me a 72 last Aug.

Yep fiberglass is to rigid. Body Filler is made to be flexible and done properly will longer than the metal on the car. Body filler will not rust.

I had thought about fabricating a receiver type hitch my my 72. My neighbor is a great fabricator and said he would help me do it. A really good neighbor Luke is for sure. I really do not wanting a hitch sticking out where I keep banging my shins on it.

When ever I replace any bolts on my 72 I go with stainless. M ine is not stock and never will be.

Might not be a bad idea to hook up another gauge to double check the present one.

If I ever need to do any spindle work on my 72 that is the way I am going. New spindles and bearings eliminating any future problems.

Surface preparation on any paint dye is of the utmost importance. The cleaner the better the end result is most of the time. The adhesion promoter is also a pretty important step.

Mine were brown tan and painted black. I do not know what the owner at that used but the need redone badly. They are all scratched up and look nasty. SEM has a product that we sell and Anderson Automotive Color that has worked pretty good by the reports we have gotten back from previous users.

I still would call the frgt company and see if there is any way to get a little help telling the person on the other end of the line that the driver was in a hurry and you did not get time to preinspect.

Eastwood also sells a kit to paint the booster to make it look like the cadmium plating. I friend of mine did his 67 Cutlass and it looks really good. I do not know if it is brake fluid resistant or not.

NO strip to these blind eyes. Looked at it in Arc Soft Photo Studio and could not see any strip.

That is good info Rodney TY.

I agree with Jared on that point. The bumper guards look a lot better IMHO.

I got the parts for Shiftworks yesterday and when I checked out the 72 it already had all of the correct stuff. Now I am waiting to hear form them to see if I can return the kit.

Clearing the cache can clear up a lot of computer problems at least it has for me lately.

The fader switch should work for the front to back but not the side to side fade/balance with AM radio wiring.

My 72 has both at the presnt time. The console was added by the previous owner. Cannot see the numbers but they look the same. When I was building these switches in the 70's I only remember there being one style of NSW.

My 700R4 kit came today and will be installed in a day or two according to how energetic I feel. All of the parts look first class.

My SB is inline

I just checked out the shiftworks site and i am really impressed. My 72 has the 700R4 but all of the shifting mechanism is for the Turbo350. I am waiting for my son in-law to take a look see before I order.