Monte123 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I was just wondering if there is a special tool for removal/installation of the drip rail molding? I have ruined 2 sets now and am also looking for another set but am afraid to pursue this endeavor until I know more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonym0828 Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Tony when I had my car painted the body guy said if I wanted to save them leave them on. But if he removed them he would not guarantee not to destroy them. But he said putting new ones on would not be a problem. He would use a rag and rubber mallet and also molding adhesive and tape them till they dried. My were in nice shape so I told him to just mask them off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I used a couple of pieces of 1X2's and very slowly went along using the metal on the window seals. Some places one board did the trick and other I needed both of them. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to get them off but the were not damaged during the removal. I twisted the board slightly and kept moving along being careful not to bend them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmall Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I removed mine by sitting in the seat and using a scrap piece of wood and a hammer to slowly remove them, just driving them off slowly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte123 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks everyone, I will keep those suggestions in mind the next time I have to remove them. Are there any suggestions for install, I was able to install both front pieces without incident but damaged the long molding on the drivers side and not the passenger side, I also damaged the molding on the drivers side at the quarter glass but not the passenger side. Feeling rather frustrated. I had a spare for the drivers side but damaged it as well and it won't stay on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 On my install I used another piece of wood with a micro fiber towel wrapped around it and started at the front and slowly pushed it on and kept moving towards the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 On my drip molding I simply sat on the seat and used a piece of thin wood and a hammer. I placed the edge of the wood on the bottom edge of the molding and lightly tapped. After a few taps in one area I moved it a couple inches and tapped and them moved a few inches again all the way to the end. I then started again in the front. I kept this up until it popped all the way off. It did take a little while but it was worth it to keep from damaging it. after it was off, I took a small tack hammer and lightly tapped the bottom edge to allow it to snap back into place. You would not want to tap/bend the bottom edge back in very much because it would then chip the while reinstalling. Reinstall is not all that hard. Hooking the upper edge in (you can take a light coat of dawn dish washing liquid and either coat the lower edge of the trim or the drip rail to allow it to slip on easier) and then like you removed it, start at either the front or rear and with a rag protecting the trim, lay the rag onto the trim, place a six inch piece of wood lengthwise on the trim and tap it in the middle. I say six inch but any length is good. Six inch worked for me because it distributes the pressure of the blow over a wider area rather than in one spot. For the quarter glass leading chrome and rubber window seal. to remove mine ( I was not worried about saving mine because they were pitted and I already had new ones but I got them off without damaging them any further. Again, I took a piece of furring strip and started tapping it. I tapped it from the inside and outside. I also used a wide blade putty knife and tapped it into the area between the chrome piece and glass. I urge you to NOT try prying the metal away from the glass with a screw driver or putty knife because you may chip or break the glass. On my drivers side it took me about 25 minutes to remove but on the passenger side only about 15 minutes to remove. To reinstall..... If you purchase new chrome 1/4 glass leading edge chrome pieces they should come with a piece of rubber. You take this piece off rubber that fits on the leading edge of the glass. Again, use some dawn dish washing soap and lightly coat the outer side off this rubber. Using the small hammer and piece of wood, line up the top edge (the top edge is closed to fit nicely over the glass) of the chrome piece to the glass and start tapping it into position, again, moving slowly along the channel until it is fully in place.. The dawn dish washing soap helps it slip into position and it washes off nicely and will not harm anything. If you are replacing the rubber weather strip dawn dish soap also makes it easier to slip it into place because they fit very tightly into the channel. Note: I do not have any stock in Dawn Dish Washing soap. Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostnFound Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Here is the product Rob is speaking of. It can be found in a grocery store. Also... Mix one gallon of white vinegar, 2 cups of Epson salts and a quarter cup blue Dawn dish washing soap and you have a great version of "wipe out" that kills weeds and grass. http://www.hometalk.com/1903802/natural-weed-control-that-works 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Richey Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I use the end of a can opener that you punch a hole in a can with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monte Jim Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I used on of the old style can openers. The one that is pointy on on end & flat on the other. I used the flat end to slowly work it off. Time consuming but worth it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
restodude Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yes can openers work , if you chase it gently with a paint stir stick or something under the chrome as you move down it's easier , just don't pry hard it's a gentle process I moved about an inch or 2 at a time and sometimes you need to go back a bit , if you keep the wood stick behind it for a bit of pressure it's quite easy...there's a few you tube videos on this as well .... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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