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AUTO BODY REPAIR - RUST REPAIR Typo corrected-question answered-moderator appointed


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LOL well i guess everyone figured out that i made a typo earlier today when i created the forum......lol. As everyone can tell huked on fonix did not work for me wink.gif

 

I had to delete the original post when i corrected the typo, which is why it is now gone.

 

I would however like to address a question that was asked earlier today. The question was why can only club members become forum moderators....excellent question i think.

 

Well i could go through a bunch of double talk on it, and bore everyone, or heck i could even pass the buck on to Kevin.....lol. But i wont.

Simply put the reason is because it is the members who in fact pay for the site with their yearly dues....bottom line. I wont even attempt to sugarcoat that. I am sure that is completely understandable, without the members dues, we would not have this site, thus they have first crack at the positions.

 

So now i would like to take this chance to welcome ADGTRUNKLID (Lloyd) to the wonderful stress filled world of being a moderator......lol.

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Congradulations Lloyd!!!!! Monte

 

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70 Monte Carlo. 355, 10.4 to 1, AFR 210's, 1 3/4" super comps, solid roller 585/597 260/266 @.050 on 112LSA, Edelbrock tunnel ram w/2 600 hp's, 4,000 stall, 4.11. 3800 lbs. 4000lbs with me in it, 12.4 @ 111 mph, 2.000 60' time, launching at 1/2 throttle for 60' to keep from spinning the tires. With that mph it should be between 11.8 and 12.2 once I get it to hook up. New Times coming for the new rear end set up and 200 shot of nitrous.

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Congratulations Lloyd! Now you can sand away at your forum duties. May I be the first to ask (since you are the Auto Body Repair Guy)to come to Chicago this spring and finish the details on my Monte? LOL

Fred

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Hey LID,

Congrats on the Moderatorship (I guess that's what it's called)! biggrin.gif

Good Luck,

Ben N

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Well Super, I would love to be able to do just that, are you buying all the beer? Oh wait I do not drink sorry. biggrin.gif It does not look like you have very much detail work to do, as far as I can tell it is one sharp looking Monte you have there Super.

Well Aaron I hold no prejudice against any swear words, as I have learned a wide assortment over the years of working on cars and turning wrenches, but I still have no control over swear word so I guess I just ask we keep it as clean as possible. Thanks for the welcome people!

 

 

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by superstk:

Congratulations Lloyd! Now you can sand away at your forum duties. May I be the first to ask (since you are the Auto Body Repair Guy)to come to Chicago this spring and finish the details on my Monte? LOL

Fred</font>

 

 

 

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My 1970 Monte Restore Pages

 

 

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logo_org_pub.gifLLOYD@FIRSTGENERATIONMONTECARLO.COM logo_org_pub.gif

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Congrats Lloyd, I couldn't think of a better choice, if fact, somehow I thought you already were a moderator. You and a few others on FGMCC have saved me hundreds of $'s in advice and avoided mistakes. Hooray, finally, a forum where I can give back instead of taking all the time!

 

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Charlie

72 Monte - Mohave Gold Paint - Lt Tan Vinyl Top - Dark Sandelwood Int - 350/350 - Quadrajet, 12 bolt rear - 181,000 Miles on original engine and tranny.

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congrats Lloyd

and also thx Markss454 for the window resto pics, coincidently i just sent my monte into the shop yesterday to get the very same problem sorted, but fortunate for me, i dont think my problem is any where near as bad as yours.

Tally-Ho pip pip smile.gif

jon

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Welcome to the crowd of moderators, Lloyd... Keep your forum clean... smile.gif

 

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71 Monte 454 HO 5- Speed "FULMNTE"

86 Monte LS "The Gray Mouse" FOR SALE!

01 Camaro V6

Andreas' Monte Carlo Site

Member NMCOA, FGMCC (Event Coordinator)

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Awesome, a new forum! And congratulations Lloyd, as well!

 

Anybody wanna offer tips on halting surface rust on my front fenders before it becomes holy metal? smile.gif

 

I swear, one day somebody's gonna ask a question that I *know* I know the answer to, and when that happens, I will feel much better about always asking questions and not saying too much else smile.gif KnightTime mentioned being able to give back.

 

Is there gonna be a forum started up dealing with how to tell when non-car-obsessed people are tired of hearing you babble on? If so, I could definitely help on that one smile.gif lol

 

-MCB

 

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MCBeast's Lair

1970 Monte Carlo 350 4bbl, (supposed to be) Maroon w/ black interior

Now accepting donations for a paint job! smile

 

FGMCC_mc_driver_front_3-4.jpgFGMCC_MC_nose.jpgFGMCC_MC_engine_driver.jpg

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Well MCBeast, that is a tricky one as you are probably aware that rust never sleeps. Therefore, if you try just covering it up, it will still be eating away under the covering. Therefore, the best way is to get it in a warm dry place and start sanding. As these cars were painted with real paint unlike today’s cars, a tiny scratch and it goes all the way thru. So prepare yourself for some hard work.

 

If you have a compressor, it would simplify things greatly. With the compressor, you may want an air DA sander and an air long board sander. Then take her down to the metal, you want to go lightly once you get to the metal as to not deform the body, but just get off the paint and old primer.

 

Then of course, once you are there you will probably want some Bondo filler and spot putty for the small dings. Once you get it straightened, you will want a base primer fill and sand, to prime for the paint. This way you can use your long board and some light sanding while looking for body imperfections, than some more Bondo or spot putty. After all that is said and done you will want to get some primer sealer on there so when you roll it out of that dry warm place it will not rust, and you should be ready for paint on the fenders.

 

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MCBeast:

Awesome, a new forum! And congratulations Lloyd, as well!

 

Anybody wanna offer tips on halting surface rust on my front fenders before it becomes holy metal? smile.gif

 

 

</font>

 

 

P.S. Thank you for the congrats!

 

 

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My 1970 Monte Restore Pages

 

 

graphic_org_pub.jpg

 

logo_org_pub.gifLLOYD@FIRSTGENERATIONMONTECARLO.COM logo_org_pub.gif

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Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MCBeast:
Is there gonna be a forum started up dealing with how to tell when non-car-obsessed people are tired of hearing you babble on? If so, I could definitely help on that one smile.gif lol</font>


ROFLOL!!!!!!!! I'm right there with you!!! I could have a field day with that forum smile.gif.

Cort S . http://www.aros.net/~rbuck/cort . 29/swm
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Gb=2000-200?...00...1st owner *****FOR SALE*****
RIP: 1976=Parents' [my] car ... 1988=Silver Bullet
**********WANTED: 87 MC LS (or) Olds Cutlass**********
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Trunk - thank you very much for the incredibly detailed reply. With those directions, I would feel confident going at it myself, and I have so far flat-out refused to touch body work (since I wasn't about to 'learn' on my Monte). Unfortunately, from what you're saying, I should start selling my blood and body for a paintjob, as the only place I have to keep the Monte is at my mom's driveway in the swamp where I grew up (where it's pictured).

 

knight - All I have to say is my girlfriend is a SAINT. Over 2 years of putting up with me assaulting her ears and she still takes it with a smile. smile.gif Bought the ring today biggrin.gif

 

-MCB

 

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MCBeast's Lair

1970 Monte Carlo 350 4bbl, (supposed to be) Maroon w/ black interior

Now accepting donations for a paint job! smile

 

FGMCC_mc_driver_front_3-4.jpgFGMCC_MC_nose.jpgFGMCC_MC_engine_driver.jpg

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Trunk - just thought of something. The only place where there's rust appearing is very small, along the top edge of the fenders (unless there's some hiding under the lower trim, which there probably is). I already had the rear window completely (primered) repaired professionally as a Christmas present (he filled with all new metal, no Bondo, very happy). With such a small area, what if I did just that small area in one day/weekend (it almost never rains in South Florida) and primered that?

 

Also:

 

1) I don't have an air compressor.

2) What is/where do I get a 'long board sander', or is that only for compressors?

3) What grit sandpaper, and what kind of primer/where to get?

 

RAPID FIRE!! POW POW PA-POW!! hehehe... sorry, it's late, I'm punchy.

 

Thanks again,

MCB

 

P.S. here're pics of the rust damage and window repair completed:

(that grey area is where the paint has dusted off, not primer I put on. Somebody slapped a $300 job on it a couple years before I got it)

 

Rear window repair

Rust damage driver

Rust damage passenger

 

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MCBeast's Lair

1970 Monte Carlo 350 4bbl, (supposed to be) Maroon w/ black interior

Now accepting donations for a paint job! smile.gif

 

FGMCC_mc_driver_front_3-4.jpgFGMCC_MC_nose.jpgFGMCC_MC_engine_driver.jpg

 

[This message has been edited by MCBeast (edited 02-21-2003).]

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Oh, yes it does look like that needs to be taken care of. You could get an electric sander with the stick on sand paper instead of an air DA. Most long boards were hand operated before air came along. It is a long and somewhat skinny board, which has sand paper the same length and width, used to sand longer flatter surfaces without getting wows in the sanding. Check out your local Sears store if you have one, or an auto body paint & supply store.

 

Hand sanding is not highly recommended either, as the paper will form to your hand once again leaving wows. If nothing else you can always get a rubber sanding block from most auto part stores. You could spot sand and just take care of those areas, although I would recommend taking one of the fenders off, and sanding it down to the metal do all the prep work on it, and if any body repairs behind the moldings.

 

Then maybe taking a break, and do the other side when you have more time. It would be less work you would have to do once you are ready for a full paint job, and would not be a spotty primer job that everyone would always be asking you questions about, what’s with the spots etc. It would take a little longer but you could take pride in a job well done!

 

As far as grit, I would use probably 100 grit to get off the rust, very lightly though followed by 220 grit, and maybe 320 on the rest, I would hope the rust is not too deep. They also have that naval jelly stuff you might want to try to get rid of some of the rust before sanding. However, I have never had that good of luck with it, though being on the crease like that it might be worth a try.

 

If you do not have a compressor I guess you will have to use the rattle can stuff for the primer. Get some sand able primer first as you may need to re-sand once you get it primed and then use a sealer primer. I believe you can get both of these in the rattle can.

 

 

 

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My 1970 Monte Restore Pages

 

 

graphic_org_pub.jpg

 

logo_org_pub.gifLLOYD@FIRSTGENERATIONMONTECARLO.COM logo_org_pub.gif

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Well MCBeast, that would also very much depend on the market or you local economy. In addition, I do not know how your girl would take it, oh by the way congratulations. If you had to, I would just focus on the rusted part until you could get around to doing more.

Quote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MCBeast:

Trunk - thank you very much for the incredibly detailed reply. Unfortunately, from what you're saying, I should start selling my blood and body for a paintjob,

 

Over 2 years of putting up with me assaulting her ears and she still takes it with a smile. smile.gif Bought the ring today biggrin.gif

 

-MCB

 

</font>

 

 

 

------------------

My 1970 Monte Restore Pages

 

 

graphic_org_pub.jpg

 

logo_org_pub.gifLLOYD@FIRSTGENERATIONMONTECARLO.COM logo_org_pub.gif

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