Jump to content

Over Heating issue


Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, EVC said:

Good luck Bryan,, sounds like you have the right parts…  

Thanks for the tip on the thermostat…  Water Temps of 220 from the passenger side head are not uncommon in traffic, especially with the AC on and the air temps above 80… We live in the hill country and it amazes me to watch people speed up on the hills and race to the top… I'll never get it… !!!  

I can only imagine the exhaust temps and stress that puts on the engine and transmissions…    But what do I know ?

I've been behind the wheel of my Monte, Pontiacs and Cadillacs for well over 50 years and logged perhaps over a million miles of seat time. Driving cross country with the family, often with a trailer, makes one weary and alert in those long desert drives.

300 miles to the next gas station on the original route 66 was common….  Breaking down wasn't an option. 

Ed C.. 

P5160289.JPG.bad70a5d99dbbf0a42e2198a4ea33279.JPG

Thanks Ed. I'll be updating this thread once I receive the radiator. They said it would be 4-6 weeks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the same overheating issue with my recently purchased (May 2022) 70 ss454.  It runs right at 210 most of the time.
This is so order

I’ve changed the water pump twice thinking the first one (hi flow Stewart ) was possibly wrong direction. Second  pump is just stock replacement. Changed the thermostat a couple of times, currently running 185.  Discovered original current radiator was blocked…did the high flow pump break something lose? Replaced radiator with us radiator 4 core heavy duty. Still runs hot…if I drive it to dinner and come back out after dinner it will be 230-250 until it runs for 2-3 minutes and then back to 210.  I changed the original temp gauge with OER temp gauge …no change. Changed clutch on fan as well. I should mention it has never boiled over.  
 

So I’m stumped. Do I take it and get it flushed…could there be a blockage in the block? …heater core?

its the numbers matching engine that I was told was rebuilt in 2005 and only had about 4K miles on it when I purchased it in 2023. Who knows what cam is in it.  Nothing big because I have 21” of vacuum at idle. I’m running pertronix electronic ignition and timing at 15 degrees.  
 

What should I try next?

IMG_1178.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Believe it or not, after a vehicle is shut off after being warmed up the engine/cooling system will "heat soak" , meaning your observation of 230-250 is "normal". 

Try a 160 thermostat, also did you "burp" the cooling system with the heater core open (meaning heat on) you could be air bound. 

How much air flow in front of the radiator do you have? Is the fan pulling enough air? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, MC1of80 said:

Believe it or not, after a vehicle is shut off after being warmed up the engine/cooling system will "heat soak" , meaning your observation of 230-250 is "normal". 

Try a 160 thermostat, also did you "burp" the cooling system with the heater core open (meaning heat on) you could be air bound. 

How much air flow in front of the radiator do you have? Is the fan pulling enough air? 

I did burp the system. The fan is a factor at low speeds but at highway speeds it doesn’t matter. This is an AC car so has a lot going on in front of radiator. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Joselk1 said:

I did burp the system. The fan is a factor at low speeds but at highway speeds it doesn’t matter. This is an AC car so has a lot going on in front of radiator. 

Again, how is the airflow at idle? Also how is the idle mixture? A lean air fuel ratio will run hot. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, MC1of80 said:

Again, how is the airflow at idle? Also how is the idle mixture? A lean air fuel ratio will run hot. 

I adjusted idle mixture with a vacuum gauge. I’m going to look at air flow tomorrow….

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heating info…. 

 

The outside temps were 103 to 107. 

AC on full blast. Stock 7 blade fan and clutch, 160 thermostat. Radiator is 3 row stock and in great condition. 

HWY, 60 mph light on the pedal at about 1700 rpm , vs …. Heavy city driving stopped and idle at about 650 to 700rpm... 

Screenshot2023-08-15at4_38_42PM.thumb.png.6e3e44b8ae5cfd0d577791f1ea171b3c.pngIMG_0548.thumb.jpeg.70fffbff4ff5be365233c114b50f57e6.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: I have installed the U.S. Radiator 4-row and it appears to have solved the creeping temp issue. I've driven it (and idled it) in 85 degree weather and it never went above 200°. It's going to be in the mid 90s here tomorrow but I won't be able to drive it. I'm happy with the purchase. It was expensive but worth it - and it's freaking gorgeous. The workmanship is outstanding. Look at the density of the rows. They are 1/2" rows on 3/8" centers rather than the stock 1/2" row on 9/16"centers. It's something like 40% more cooling capacity. Direct bolt-in replacement, too. 👍

The old 3-row radiator is for sale. Nothing wrong with it, only a few months old. 

side-by-side-1.jpg

side-by-side-2.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...