Mike S Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Has anyone pulled a turbo 400 without pulling the motor. 402 with headers. Those upper casing bolts seem impossible to get at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Very long extension with a swivel socket. I do it all the time. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike S Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Any other pointers? I have pulled many TH 350’s and just huffed them down laying under the car but that was literally 42 years ago. The car is up on stands and the plan is to lower the 400 with a floor Jack. It shifts nice no issues but has a leak from what looks like the front pump seal. I’m just looking at cleaning it up and resealing. Any advice would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Remove the driveshaft, cross member and mount. But make sure you drained the pan before this. Lower the back of the trans, remove the cooler lines, kick down wires, shifter linkage, inspection cover, if it's still there, 3 torque converter bolts. With the back of the trans "hanging" you can get to the bell housing bolts. I have a 3 ft extension with a Mac tools impact swivel that I used when I installed transmissions for a living. Aamco and LeeMyles. Lolol a long time ago. You will have an issue with the headers. The Ears that the inspection coverbolts to will hit both headers. Either twist the trans so one gets past the header then the other or move the back of the trans to one side of the car and lower it that way. I usually cut those ears off of the trans with a sawsall or cutoff wheel. For easier installation and in worst case scenario, removal again. I advise against this IF it is the numbers matching case to the car. I hope this helps. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I used a floor jack with a piece of wood on it so as not to mess up the pan. I don’t have a lift. Be careful with the balance act. Unbolt but don’t remove the crossmember that way you can still adjust the jack and transmission for balance. Make sure the lines are out of the way so they don’t catch. Joe is correct on the top bolts. Stay out of the way if it falls. The older we get the longer it takes to heal. Be careful. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Get a trans jack adapter that works with the floor jack, it'll be a lot safer, especially now that 42 years have passed by. Mr. Gravity didn't make that thing any lighter 😁. It will help when installing it too, as you can vary the angle of attack, when re-inserting it. You've done enough of them from the sound of it, to make sure the torque converter is bottomed out before trying to tighten the bolts to draw the trans up to the engine. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Tom’s response is much more detailed than mine and on point. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike S Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 That’s it! Let the trans hang to get to the bolts. The things you only learn by having done it a bunch of times. Perfect. I was looking at that floorjack adapter especially for reinstall. Probably will fight the headers and not cut the trans. Really appreciate the quick responses from everyone. Thankyou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 X2 what everyone else has said.............check to see if HF has their trans jack on sale . If you can get a friend to help its not a bad thing. Check the trans mount condition, if original might not be a bad idea to replace. Also the rubber grommets for the crossmember may hang in the frame, I thought mine were missing so ordered new. Its not fun but can be done 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 The jack will also help with relieving pressure on the input shaft making it easier to slide the trans out. I normally put my jack in first, then start tackling the bell housing bolts and all the crazy angles, swivels, and arm contortions needed to remove them. I actually own a trans jack which you can attach straps around the trans, keeping it stable while maneuvering the jack during removal. Regardless of how you do it, be careful. Those things get heavier with age. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott S. Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I used 2 short rachet straps hooked to the frame to lower and re install my th350..... Bit of a balancing act, but it got the job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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