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Spark Plugs Oil? Carbon , Both ? NGK - AC


snomobeelr

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I've always had an issue running rich and plugs carboned up.  I know lately(last season) seems to blow some blues at start up. I've always used the NGK plugs. The last set was NGK V-Power 7. I was thinking of trying AC's plugs but don't think it will really make a difference.  AC Delco Spark Plug - R43XLS . Pictures are from Plug #7. Any opinions? 

 

 

DUI HEI Distributor

Carburetor:    4140 Holley Pro-System

Engine Cubic Inches:    468
Compression Ratio:      10.1
Intake Manifold Brand:  Edlbrock AIR GAP RPM
Header full American Header     1 7/8"
3 inch Exhaust
....................................................................
Cylinder Head Type:     Brodix race rite oval port
Intake Valve Diameter:    2.250 in.
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.880 in
...................................................................
Type of Camshaft:       Hyrdaulic Roller Lifters
Camshaft - Intake Duration @.050:       232
Camshaft - Exhaust Duration @.050:      244
Camshaft - Intake Lift at Valve:        595
Camshaft - Exhaust Lift at Valve:       581
Lobe Separation:        107
 

plug 1.jpg

plug 2.jpg

plug 3.jpg

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Yeah, that's oil fouled. You mention smoke on start up. I would say it's most likely bad valve seals. I would look at them first. 

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Another way to help pinpoint is to drive vehicle and have someone follow you.  If it smokes on decel, then likely valve seals. If it smokes on acceleration, likely rings. Of course on a manual car its easier to do the decel test, but you could lock it in 2nd for example and test it that way so it does not upshift. Agreed on the answer above regarding start up / valve seals.

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Yup acceleration, rings for sure. I found out the hard way on a motor we built. I cracked the ring on install.OOPs!! I made it right though. Lesson learned.

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It usually just smokes on start up. Either way I am  not going to start a project like that, this late when driving season is within grasp 🙂 . Im really slow it takes me a long time to do projects.  Even ifs its valve seals, if I have to pull the heads I would just pull the motor. Although I do believe those can be done without pulling the heads so Ill see.  For now Im just going to clean or change plugs.  I went with the hotter shorter plug last time.

Question though which spark plug type Profile is better for my situation ? Short or extended profile? 

 

 

plug profile.jpg

plug profile.jpg

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I have a problem with mine fouling number 1 plug also, I put a non fouler in it until I have time and space to do the motor. It's probably valve seals or guides I assume,  I have new heads for it when I do it. Was going to just do heads and cam but not sure if the bottom end will hold up so just going to do it all at once. The non fouler has helped for sure with no ill effects,  I do carry a tool kit and extra plugs with me at all times.

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54 minutes ago, snomobeelr said:

Question though which spark plug type Profile is better for my situation ? Short or extended profile? 

Depends on what type of piston clearance you have. Put the wrong ones in and you'll have more problems.

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Its not just one Plug fouling its all of them and its not thousands of miles.  It is quite a bit of idling or low speeds 35 - 40 mph.  I have to go farther out to get away from traffic and open roads. The picture below is after I cleaned half of the plugs. 

plug  7.jpg

plug  6.jpg

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Just under 10 thousand miles. It was built in 2012 or 2013.  the wasn't  on the road until 2014 or 15. I haven't done a compression test .  Maybe my ignorance but I figure either way rings or seals Im pulling the motor. If Im to do that Ill do it at the end of this driving season being in Northern Illinois.  She still runs good no loss of power or anything like that noticeable. Just some smoke on start up. I always watch oil pressure and temp when driving. If I was having drivability issues it would be a different story.  I was just wondering if there different plug or gap I could use to burn some of it off. Im running a 40 th gap with a DUI distributor. I remeber in younger years friend would run transmission fluid through the carb to clean everything up.. I tant remember if that's an old wise tale or not though.  

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I've heard stories about running trans fluid or kerosene in the oil to clean out inside of engine but with only 10,000 miles I doubt it to dirty in there. I'd bet valve seals or like Larry found a broken inner spring on valve spring which wiped out a couple valve seals. Maybe try a different brand of plug, I use autolite in mine they seem to work well except the one plug fouls after a few thousand miles. I'd say keep tools and plugs with you at all times and enjoy it.

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This appears to be 12 years of stupid. Iv had a problem of the plugs fouling for a while. The car has always run rich even with different carbs.  Base timing @18.  Its always run pretty good but always rich. But it also looks like oil for last two seasons too.  I know it could be Valve seals or rings. Yet the odd thing is its all the plugs that look like this . Not 1 two or three. Its always been all the plugs. I was looking online and came across something I didn't think about. The PCV and breather.  I have had it on there PCV Vale on the driver side and the breather on the passenger side. What I never paid any attention to was the baffle in the Valve covers. The PCV valve is right on the baffle blocking it. So it's Basically a Plug 🙈. I look at the breather and never realized  there is button on the bottom to punch out so air will flow through the breather. So now Im think or know the PVC and breather hasn't been doing anything this whole time .  🤬

baffle.jpg

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