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Blown Head Gasket.... save me!


MonteFox89

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Does it only do this when the engine is relatively cold?.. or it also does it fully warmed up? Can you speed up the engine and keep it going, or does it die anyway?

 

There's a long list of stuff that could cause this (most is a simple fix) but some more info would be nice to narrow down the cause.

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Does it only do this when the engine is relatively cold?.. or it also does it fully warmed up? Can you speed up the engine and keep it going, or does it die anyway?

 

well if it runs for about 5 minutes then dies I would say it's getting slightly warmed up at minimum. I can speed it up. I can keep it going if fluttering the pedal. but in the end it does die.

 

Originally Posted By: Mo's70MCs
I'm confused. What type of ignition? You keep changing the problem & symptoms. grin

 

HEI. I'm trying to keep the symptoms as spot on as I can but it's difficult to explain.

 

I'm going to check my coil, fuel pump, and I can't think of much else at the moment.

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My first thought was the coolant spraying all over the engine got into the dist cap or somehow caused condensation to form inside the cap. When running it is cross firing and arching all over (perhaps from the wire boots too) the place. Look for sparks in the dark when the engine is under load anywhere near the plugs, wires and cap. Good luck.

Bruce

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Thanks Bruce. It's a dark day outside as is so it shouldn't be so hard to check all that out today.

 

Well besides that issue I've gotten the water pump halfway replaced... I need a new bolt. One of the longer bolts holding the pump to the block (not the one holding the power steering pump)stripped and bent and all kinds of fun things. I'm realizing I have very bad luck normally... any idea where I can get a new one, or thread size/length so I can hunt one down myself?

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Measure how thick the water pump is at that hole. Add 1" for the length, if there are no other brackets to go thru. The diameter of the bolt is 3/8" and 16 threads per inch. Example: If the pump measures 2 1/2" thick, buy a 3 1/2 X 3/8-16, grade 5 bolt or higher at the hardware store. Here's a link for hardness. Don't get a soft China made bolt.

Use a lock washer on the bolt and use pipe thread sealer on any threads that go into a hole that has no bottom and could leak coolant.

 

Dan

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Thanks! That was very useful! Now this new water pump shouldn't leak... if it does I'mma kick it....

 

As for the "problem" I have been having. I won't really be able to tell wth is going on until I can get some anti-freeze and water in the system...

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They are a standard 3/8's coarse thread bolt, not sure how long, but you could measure the thickness of the waterpump and add about 1/2" and it would work...

 

Oops did not see the post above. What he said works too smile

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If the Carb is a Rochester Quadrojet, It could be the choke pull off. make sure the vacum hose is good to the pull off Make sure the choke plate is opening as it warms up. The choke linkage could be binding as well not allowing the choke plate to open.

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If the Carb is a Rochester Quadrojet, It could be the choke pull off. make sure the vacum hose is good to the pull off Make sure the choke plate is opening as it warms up. The choke linkage could be binding as well not allowing the choke plate to open.

 

Yeah. I'll really be checking on that choke when I get some antifreeze. don't wanna try warming up the car without it lol might get toooooo warm tooooooo fast lol

 

But to be honest it's an electric choke that I've wired to the fuse box to kick in when I turn the key. I don't know a whole lot about chokes but I do know that I have to press my gas pedal to get my choke to set in the beginning and to get it to open the rest of the way once the car is warm enough. kinda works out really considering I pump the gas about 4 times before I can start it in this cold weather lol

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