MonteFox89 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Hello everyone! Well, ever hear the theory of, "Fix one thing and another will break"? Well, I've proven it. I fixed the transmission and finally set the car back on 4 tires. Started it up and everything was running fine but it seemed to be missing more than on just 1 cylinder. I shrugged it off and blamed the really cold air (I really didn't wanna think I was missing more than normal!). Well, My Wife and I take the car for a drive and sure enough, it dies while I'm taking a curve. Well, my wife frustrated as can be, walks to the nearest house and catches a ride. I, in the meantime, crawl under the car to find out what's going on because under the hood there is a lot of anti-freeze below. So, I'm under the car and I'm looking and funny that's I've never seen anti-freeze leaking out of my oil pan seal.... I've talked to several people and they've said it's the head gasket blown. Some others mentioned something about a water line had blown somewhere and it was blowback. I haven't the slightest clue. I'm just going to fix the head gaskets and anything I see out of place on my way back to the top. SO. I need to know. What all things will I need for changing the head gaskets (I'm also thinking about putting headers on whilst I'm doing this.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overdrive Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Are you just needing to know what parts to buy? You'll need gaskets for the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and heads. Inspect the old gaskets for bad spots/leak points. Also, check the heads for cracks. Is the anti-freeze dripping from the front pan seal or the rear. You need to make sure the fluid was coming from inside the motor before you buy gaskets and tear into it. If an external hose is leaking, it's possible the fluid was being blown to the rear of the block and oil pan and dripping from the seal area. Unless you have an oil leak there, it won't leak any anti-freeze that gets in the pan. Check the oil level. If it's too high, drain and inspect the oil for anti-freeze. If it's in the pan, it'll come out as soon as the plug is removed. The oil will float on top of any water or anti-freeze. Good luck and let us know what you find. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs70monte Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 It sounds like the intake gasket is shot I would do a cylinder leak down test or some compression testing to make sure the head gaskets are bad why do them if you don't have to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I had a similar problem a few years ago on with a different car. What I would do is drain the oil/coolant mix then start disassembling from top to bottom until you find the problem. Should be fairly obvious based on what you describe. In my case the block had cracked but hopefully yours will be less fatal. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Well, if I didn't have to park the car next to the house and in the weather for the night I would have been digging into it without a second thought. So, I'll probably go out and look at it later tonight. I'll repost when I find something out ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 You need to check and make sure where it is coming from. You could have blown a freeze plug on the rear of the head or block. As mentioned it could be the intake. As far as antifreeze coming out the oil pan gasket never seen that. If it got to the oil pan it would have mixed with the oil and it would look like a cake mix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 ditto on the freeze plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 I got under the hood this morning after pushing the snow off the car. I was looking around and checked the oil and what not. It didn't look like there was anti-freeze in the oil. it was still dark, and slimy (it's 10 degrees this morning). Forgot to mention as well, the oil was at it's normal spot on the dipstick, half a quart below full. So, what other culprits could there be? What is a Freeze plug (I don't think I have one on my car... at least I'm not sure I should say)? Also, which hoses may have busted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 You do have freeze plugs. They are a metal cup-shaped plug that is press fit into the openings in the side of the block. They are supposed to slide out if freezing water inside makes excessive pressure....kind of a relief valve to prevent your block from cracking. I can't say as I've ever seen one pop out that way. Usually they simply rust through because of old age. I think the main reason for their existence is to have a way of pouring out the sand used in the casting process when the engine is made. Here is a picture of an engine upside-down, but the photo shows nice new brass freeze plugs (no rusting). The stock plugs are just zinc plated steel. Really, you're going to have to pressurize the cooling system and see where water runs out to know for sure where your leak is. Hopefully it's something simpler than a freeze plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 SBC? Water pump to block mounting bolts.. specially if locking washers are missing. They'll blow a mounting gasket in a jiffy, and you'll get plenty of anti-freeze all over the place..ask me how I know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 the driver side seal has busted on the water pump. I plan on changing that in the next few weeks... it's winter there is some leniency on working on cars now is there not? lol question to go along with this. Would a lack of anti-freeze/liquid, or even a vacuum leak from the water pump, cause the car to only run for about 5 to 6 seconds at idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs70monte Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 No the car should still run with a coolant leak the coolant has nothing to do with engine vacuum but if you over heated it you could have a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyKenny Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I drove around with one for about 4 days by babying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 No the car should still run with a coolant leak the coolant has nothing to do with engine vacuum but if you over heated it you could have a problem But I hope that isn't the case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs70monte Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 How does it run for the 5 or 6 seconds it does run? How does it start it could be the cold weather how does it normaly start in the cold there's many things it could be if its been sitting the gas could have drianed back ect.... we need some more info on what it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share Posted January 15, 2011 I start it normally and it runs fine for about 5-6 seconds and then it dies. The funny thing is the, first time I start it from letting it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death.... I was testing it around with the "trying to keep it running factor" and noticed it will stay running if I keep the rpm's up to 2500... any where below that, even if I'm giving it slight gas, it will absolutely die. Extra Note: When I say it dies, it doesn't just shut off, it simmers to a death. it will drop all rpm's before it dies, not just a flat shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Sounds like the choke may be not working right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Get the leak fixed first. You don't want to run the engine low on coolant if you can help it. There may be a connection between the two issues, but it might be something external...like the spark plug wires got wet, or the distributor. The ignition system is pretty sensitive to moisture. What happens when it dies? Does it easily restart and go another 5 minutes? When it's running does it run smooth? Even if it runs as if it has a dead cylinder or a missfire, it could be an ignition problem because of all the water that was being sprayed around under the hood from your leak. I've had the same symptoms from washing my engine with a hose. I can think of BAD things that could have happened to the engine as a result of your leak and resulting coolant loss, but you should start on the outside first and make sure everything is in good shape before you start tearing things apart looking for internal problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 the driver side seal has busted on the water pump. so no blown head gasket? As Mark said.. take care of leak first.. as for the car not running at idle..some more info is needed. Too many variables. Is the car bone stock, what year?, Is the ignition std or electronic ? Did it overheat into head gasket blowing temperature?(I'm using that term loosely) I'd check into, ignition dryness, carb related issues, intake manifold leaks. Float level, heavy float, resilient needle not seating could over flow the fuel level? You gotta narrow it down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robs70monte Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 it sounds like the high idle isn't working or the choke isn't working properly but fix the coolent leak so you can warm the car up all the way to see if there is even a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 yeah, just bought a new Water pump and gaskets today. going to tear into it on Wednesday since I work the next 3 days. But yeah to answer a few questions, it runs smooth like it always did, and it will start right back up with about 2 pumps of gas into the carb. The Distributor wasn't wet when the primary issue occurred. The wires were equally dry.... Like I said though, I'm going to change my water pump and see about buying some anti-freeze... that brings me to another question... I'll need about 4 gallons or 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 If you mix it 50/50, two might fit. Your engine run problem is sounding more "non-related" to me. If it starts right back up, it doesn't sound like something your leak had anything to do with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyKenny Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I start it normally and it runs fine for about 5-6 seconds and then it dies. The funny thing is the, first time I start it from letting it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death.... I was testing it around with the "trying to keep it running factor" and noticed it will stay running if I keep the rpm's up to 2500... any where below that, even if I'm giving it slight gas, it will absolutely die. Extra Note: When I say it dies, it doesn't just shut off, it simmers to a death. it will drop all rpm's before it dies, not just a flat shut off. The wires in my distributor, under the cap and rotor used to touch the shaft in the distributor and make my car do the EXACT same thing. And my fuel line was too close to my intake after my head job so the gas evaporated before it had a chance to reach the carb. These two things made me hate my car for a couple months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
400hpmonte Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Hello; Just a thought on your "it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death....". How old is your exhaust system? or condition of exhaust? A plugged (collapsed/rusted/frozen) muffler/piping can cause those types of symptoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Hello; Just a thought on your "it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death....". How old is your exhaust system? or condition of exhaust? A plugged (collapsed/rusted/frozen) muffler/piping can cause those types of symptoms. The exhaust system is fine actually. flowmaster to be exact. I can't name the series but it's about 6-7 years old. The coil getting hot would cause this strange issue... right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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