bigscaht Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Ok heres the situation..Im in the process of removing the front end suspention..shocks, springs and control arms.(found out I have the oval bushings..lol) My question is is there any specific order to remove these parts? any good tips I should know before i dive into this? and how the heck do you separate the darn ball joints. I noticed when trying to remove the lower control arm thaty you cant get the front bolt out without removing the stering arms and center link cuz it blocks the bolt from comming all the way out...so any tips and tricks would be very helpful... I alerady got the springs chained down so they wont come flying out at me...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Several good write up here someplace, I'll search for them. Caution when working with the coil springs! They are under extream tension and can almost explode out of the pocket if removed incorrectly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Try this one, but I remember someone writing up a step by step "HOW TO" Spring / Ft End work link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hey Scott, Thats a Great link that Bruce has passed onto you...Those lower Balljoints have to be pressed out, your not gonna get em by a hammer or pliers squeezing them out. The uppers are completely diff, you can drill out the factory rivits. One last key thing when putting it all back together only tighten up the upper and lower bolts just over hand tight. if you crank them all up as you put them in you will not be able to set the correct Ride hieght or the "Z" height as they call it on the front end... Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I didn't find what I was looking for. Anyone remember a great write up a member did with pictures and descriptions on how to rebuild a ft suspension? I thought it was in the Tech Article section. sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mcarlo Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Dennis (MCfan) has done some wonderful write-ups documenting front-end work. Â Here's a couple of links to relevant threads: Â http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=310669&page=2 Â http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubb...0711#Post330711 Â Hope this helps. Â I know Dennis posted a separate message that contained links to several of his write-ups, but darned if I can find it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 thanks for that link it is going to be very helpful.....watch out for those springs huh...I think my biggest problem will be the ball joints.. Cant I jus cut the springs to relive the tension since im not going to reuse them???????? thats what I might do although on the drivers side I got the spring tied off wit a spring and 2 straps...kinda over kill but dont wanna get hit wit a flying spring!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 If you are not going to reuse the old springs, cut away. I use a torch and make 2 cuts in them. A sawzall might work too, but they pop when you cut them Be careful how ever you do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mcarlo Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I had a rear coil spring break on my daily driver - it sounded like a .44 magnum! I'd make sure to have a safety chain wrapped through and around the entire spring before cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I didn't find what I was looking for. Anyone remember a great write up a member did with pictures and descriptions on how to rebuild a ft suspension? I thought it was in the Tech Article section. sorry  Bruce, I don't recall the tech article you are remembering but I'd like to see if if you can find it. In the meantime, I will share a link a photo essay I recently finished on my frontend rebuild project last November.  Both the project and the essay were done by a novice (me) so don't have high expectations, but it might help someone who has never done it before. I know I will be a lot better prepared and more efficient when I do it again on my SS car this fall. Hope it helps someone. Here's the link:  http://s912.photobucket.com/albums/ac329/dbengtson4/Front%20suspension%20rebuild/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThirdMC Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 BMR Suspension has instructions on their site. Pull up the control arms for the FGMC and they hace a link to the instructions at the bottom of the page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 bring your car to me, I'll have everything on the ground in about a 1/2 hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 thanks Mcfan...that is super helpful......cant wait to get mine lookin like yours...thanks to everybody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 No problem, Scott. Glad it might be useful to someone. I have benefited so much from what others have shared that I want to at least share a few things I have done that turned out okay. Â It's always challenging to try to explain what you know or feel in words so if anything I wrote under the pictures is too confusing, please feel free to ask for clarification. Â Good luck with your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigscaht Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 alright..I finally won the fight with those stubborn front springs but got em out without too much drama..here are some progress pics! found a good temporary use for the springs...lol Now I jus gotta get the control arms apart!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Congratulations, Scott! Guess I've never seen it done that way but it obviously worked well for you. You ought to be able to take the control arm/spindle assemblies to a work bench and break those ball joints lose from the spindle any of several ways. Same with removing the ball joints from the control arms - several ways to go now. Â You've got the frame looking great already - bet this job is going to be a masterpiece when you get it finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Interesting approach, I am kind of curious to find out how you separate the lower ball joint doing it this way. I've never seen it done this way. I'm suspecting a lot of hammering. The technique I used had the ball joints being separated with some hammering but with the spring doing most of the work before removing the LCA bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 boy that's sure the hard way of doing it  separating the ball joints is so simple and everyone makes such a fuss over it, all you need is a hammer with with a decent size head, a little ball-peen hammer or carpenters hammer isn't going to cut it  do not hit the ball joint itself in any way! you hit the spindle where the stud of the ball joint comes thru, on the side! you are trying to shock the part to release the taper fit, and that's why you need a decent size hammer, the mass of the hammer has much to do with it, you can wack on it all day with a small one and it will never come apart  let the wise-cracks begin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Ditto! On Sam's method..I can't say I've ever seen it done that way Scott, but whatever works. Separating the spindle from both control arms is key, once you've done that, it's really easy to use the car's weight (providing engine is in) and the car on jack stands, to lower the lower control arm slowly using a floor jack until all tension is removed from spring. Remove spring and work on releasing the control arms from frame. The upper control arm requires a little ingenuity, because of the knurled bolts. Anyone that's worked on them, will remember perhaps the aggravation involved with them...once I have the upper control arm loose, I use a C-clamp to release the knurled bolt from the control arm towers and presto, pull control arm off. The re-assembly once you have the upper control arm ready for installation, I slowly place the bolts through the towers holes and control arm shaft and seat the knurled bolt onto the tower with a drift punch, install removed shims and tighten-up the assy. That way most of the upper arm is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudax Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 it's really easy to use the car's weight (providing engine is in) Â Exactly what Rod said, as long as the engine is in. I am right in the middle of this and if you try to use a jack to compress the springs without the engine in, the whole car will lift off the jack stands before the springs are completely compressed enough to nut the bottom ball joint. Â Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 On another note: The use of "offset control arm shafts" most sagging frames require these. Problem Solver; provides additional positive camber adjustment..in most old sagging frames an offset control arm kit is a must. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Originally Posted By: Mo's70MCs it's really easy to use the car's weight (providing engine is in)  Exactly what Rod said, as long as the engine is in. I am right in the middle of this and if you try to use a jack to compress the springs without the engine in, the whole car will lift off the jack stands before the springs are completely compressed enough to nut the bottom ball joint.  Mike  Ditto that's the only time I've ever used an internal spring compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 I will not!!!! do springs without a spring compressor, engine in or not, one slip with the jack can have disastrous results  I am a certified professional mechanic and still have all my fingers and plan on keeping them too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 You know Sam we all have different abilities, one of those is knowing when you're not being safe. Safety is first and foremost.. I don't recommend "not" using a spring compressor. It's just that I've grown to feel lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 How does a frame sag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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