Clever Idiot Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Anyone have some kind of trick for getting the top hooks of a coil spring compressor out from inside the front coil spring?! I've busted more knuckles and thrown every curse at it that I know (and even made some up). I've done it before. It always seems to be the same procedure of frustrating me to the point of being homicidal, and then it falls out with magic or something; I don't know. What a PITA!! There has to be a better way to get that beast out through the lower A-arm shock hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Du does ur spring compressor come apart? Not the threaded rod part but the fingers that rest on the coil spring? If so undo it at that point once you got the arm down far enough and flip it inside the coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toppless72 Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 If I understand your problem... When installing the spring compressor on the spring don't hook the arms on the outer most coil. leave one coil at the top so that when you set the spring in the pocket you won't be trapping the compressor arms between the spring and the pocket seat. Like I said, I may not be understanding you problem so... for what it's worth, my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 If I understand your problem... When installing the spring compressor on the spring don't hook the arms on the outer most coil. leave one coil at the top so that when you set the spring in the pocket you won't be trapping the compressor arms between the spring and the pocket seat. Like I said, I may not be understanding you problem so... for what it's worth, my 2 cents. That's the way I understood it as well. I was always able to hook the compressor down 2 or three coils and still get the spring in with little problems. Also, which spring compressor are you using? The correct compressor is the unit with 2 hooks at the top and a "spoon like" insert at the bottom. The "spoon like" insert slides into the bottom coils about 2 coils up and stradles the long threaded shaft. I have found this unit to be easier to use than the unit with 2 hooks on one end and 2 hooks on the opposite end. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 so is it pinched in the coils? if so you'll have to probably re-do it sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 The correct compressor is the unit with 2 hooks at the top and a "spoon like" insert at the bottom. The "spoon like" insert slides into the bottom coils about 2 coils up and stradles the long threaded shaft. I have found this unit to be easier to use than the unit with 2 hooks on one end and 2 hooks on the opposite end. - Dave Yep, this. I'm re-installing the springs right now so I can pick up the body. I'm bringing the rolling chassis and they're mounting the body on it using their lift. I hooked in about 3 coils down from the top, and put the spoon in about 2 coils up from the bottom. I've hooked it too high before where the hooks were too high in the frame pocket and I couldn't unhook them, but not this time. The hooks/fingers don't come off the block on mine. It's a solid block with the thread hole and the two pivoting hooks. The hooks are off the coils, the threaded part is completely threaded out, the spoon is removed. It's the block that the hooks attach to that is just a millimeter too large or awkward to drop through the shock hole in the bottom a-arm. I've had the front coils out and back in 2 or 3 times (I think this is my third time installing them) all due to needing to move it after disassembling it. I have had to fight this block getting in and out of the lower a-arm shock hole EVERY time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 try jacking up the lower a frames to compress the springs a bit more and stick a pry bar in there and pry the compressor out it may take some doing and be carefull when it comes out it may jump out hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Finally got it last night after posting. I used my jack handle to wedge in between coils and a tie-rod separator to force the short hook down a couple coils, rotating the block/hook assembly. After I got the short hook past two coils, I was able to orient the assembly so the long hook was facing up and the short hook was facing down, with the block straight in between them. Easily fit through the hole then. Tonight I get to tackle the passenger side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Never had to use a spring compressor and I have had at least 3 sets of coils in and out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 Frame's totally stripped, so there's no weight where I could put a jack under the lower a-arm and do that instead. Plus I just don't feel comfortable doing it without the compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 This is the one I have. That big rectangular aluminum block is the problem. Perfectly the wrong size to drop out or flip inside the spring (without multiple pry bars). But this looks like it would be easier to maneuver in and out of the installed spring (due to the bottom of the block being angular instead of a perfect rectangle). What made this one more difficult? Would it not compress the spring as much, because of the reduced available thread travel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 The second one you posted is the one I have. Never had a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 This is the one I have. That big rectangular aluminum block is the problem. Perfectly the wrong size to drop out or flip inside the spring (without multiple pry bars). But this looks like it would be easier to maneuver in and out of the installed spring (due to the bottom of the block being angular instead of a perfect rectangle). What made this one more difficult? Would it not compress the spring as much, because of the reduced available thread travel? The first one is the one I perfer. I did slightly round the corners on the square block and had zero problems getting it and out of the lower arm. On my old lower arms, I believe I even took a square file and grooved the entry hole slightly on two corners. If my memory serves me correctly, both procedures involved very little material removal from the metal surfaces. I have the second one as well but don't really like it compared to the first. I guess which ever works. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Frame's totally stripped, so there's no weight where I could put a jack under the lower a-arm and do that instead. Plus I just don't feel comfortable doing it without the compressor. Ah that would explain why you needed the compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 You could always put a 2x4 between the frame and ceiling and jack up the A frame. Yea I have lived dangrously in the past thats why I am no longer turning wrenches, it was hurting to many body parts. Maybe I should have just gotten a little smarter. Naw with flat rate you had to get it all done and get on to the next one thats how you make a living. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clever Idiot Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 I did slightly round the corners on the square block and had zero problems getting it and out of the lower arm. Yeah, I'm thinking that's what I'll do before taking those springs out again. I don't want to have to pry and pop and scratch up new springs and a-arms when I go to put them on, and I just don't want the headache when I go to take this old stuff back off. Originally Posted By: cny first gen 71 You could always put a 2x4 between the frame and ceiling and jack up the A frame. Way to risky for my blood! Besides, that would crush my drywall ceiling in the garage. I'll stick to the PITA compressor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The second one you posted is the one I have. Never had a problem with it. same here, I almost never use the floating set of hooks, I run the threaded rod thru the shock hole and compress the spring into the frame, but you have to make sure you position the spring correctly before you start to compress it, I have done dozens of springs this way on GM cars/trucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 cents Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Had the same problem. de compressed the springs. moved down the compressor in the spring (more toward center) recompressed the springs lowered the a arm w a floor jack a bit & removed the spring compressor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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