amsterdam84 Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Alright between doing the strut in my mazda and trying to get a ragjoint for the steering conversion I have noticed I keep getting high temps. From startup I have the temp climb up to the 210 to 240 degree range. Then it will drop to around 180-190. Then it will slowly climb up to over 210. Thermostat is a 190 degree and it has been replaced 3 times with the same results. Water pump was replaced 3 years ago. Small leak on the waterneck hose as they are swollen but not enough to cause this heating issue. Does not matter how I drive, spirited, crusing etc. If I just let it idle up to 170ish it will not go over 190 right away but will eventually crawl to over 210 over time. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Check the flow through the Radiator. A restriction there will cause poor cooling. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 restricted radiator or not big enough radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 The rad came with the car and I was told it was a non aluminum 3 core radiator. Motor is a mostly original with MAYBE a slightly more lumpy cam yet have not been able to verify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Would it be good to remove the rad and run a garden hose through it in reverse to clear any blockages? Or should I just replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 are you by chance running aftermarket pulleys on your engine? I had the same issue when I used the smaller (overdrive) crank pulley, that slows the waterpump. Changed back to stock pulley and have had no more cooling issues since you could take it to a radiator shop and have it checked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 All belts and pulleys are original in setup. Could it be air in the engine? Any way for me to burp it out so to speak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 the cooling system should be sealed and able to hold 15 psi of pressure. if you have seepage you have pressure loss. each 1 psi of pressure equates to nearly 3 degrees of added boiling point. if the system cant hold pressure it cannot perform as it was designed. fix youre leaks and replkace the radiator cap. my 2 cents. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972mc Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Having the same issue since getting A/C compressor working again. It'll run from 200 to 210 and on hill or under heavy accel to 220. I think I used to run 180-190 before compressor. Running stock fan/shroud, 3 core OEM style radiator. All components were replaced during resto 4 years and 12 K ago. Wow have you seen the prices on all aluminum radiators? I did just clamp off the heater hoses, and am running straight water with water wetter. Will try test of driving in heat with no A/C to see what temps are running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 It will run cooler with a 50/50 water/anti freeze mixture. At least mine did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Is this a factory water temp. gauge or aftermarket? Either way is it reliable? It will run cooler with a 50/50 water/anti freeze mixture. At least mine did Everything I ever read always said nothing runs cooler than straight water. Mixtures are for lubrication of the cooling system, anti rust, and antifreeze purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiham Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The ethylene glycol in anti-freeze doesn't just raise the freezing point of water, it also raises the boiling point. The higher boiling point allows the fluid to transfer more heat before converting to steam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 I have to agree with Bill. Antifreeze does raise the boiling point of water, but it does not transfer heat as well as water. A 15 lb radiator cap raises the boiling point of plain water about 35 to 45 degrees. 2 1/2 to 3 degrees per pound of pressure. I run water and a corrosion inhibitor and water pump lube. You don;t want to take a chance of dumping antifreeze at a drag strip. you will anger a lot of people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.