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Original paint scheme for booster/mc assy


MCfan

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Seems I read something on the forums quite awhile ago that there may be a color scheme reference guide for restoring first gen Montes. If anyone knows a source of such information and is willing to share it, I would certainly appreciate knowing.

 

My immediate need is to correctly (or at least closely) paint a remanufactured vacuum booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve assembly for my '70 SS car. The brakes worked but began to fade away at idle so I suspected the master cylinder needed rebuilding/replacing. After reading all the warnings about rebuilding a master cylinder, I decided to replace it and also replace the vacuum booster as an assembly so it would all be new. I did not consider the smaller diameter, dual diaphram boosters as I am trying to keep this car looking as close to original as is practical. The remanufactured unit has a Bendix master cylinder instead of the Delco unit, but my '70 Chasis Service Manual says they are completely interchangable and were both used in production (hope that is true).

 

P9033517.jpg

 

 

I realize that the factory booster may have been plated and not painted but this remanufacured unit already has a dull silver paint on it (and the master cylinder). I had painted my original booster gold because it was horribly discolored. I also painted my original Delco master cylinder and proportioning valve with Cast Blast which looks very much like virgin cast iron.

 

P9033542.jpg

 

Does anyone happen to know what the original factory coatings and colors were on these brake system components? Many thanks for any advice or references!

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Bill posted this in another post. I'm not sure if it is what you are looking for Dennis

 

Underhood Detailing:

 Frame and upper/lower control arms and upper shafts = semi-gloss black

 Front coil springs = gloss black or natural (better detail contrast)

 Firewall, inner fenders, radiator support = semi-gloss black

 Radiator and fan = gloss black

 Fan clutch = natural aluminum

 Radiator shroud = natural black plastic or gloss black

 Steering box = natural cast iron gray

 Steering linkage = natural steel

 Front sway bar = natural cast iron gray

 Heater or AC housing = semigloss black

 Hood hinges, latch, catch and springs = gray phosphate plated

 Brackets and steel pulleys = semi-gloss or gloss black (gloss gives more detail contrast)

 Cast iron pulleys = natural cast iron

 Master cylinder = natural cast iron (some use gloss black)

 Brake booster = gold cadmium plated (master cylinder lid also)

 Windshield wiper motor = gloss black

 Alternator = natural aluminum

 Power steering pump = gloss black

 AC compressor = semi-gloss black

 Steering column shaft = natural steel

 Horns = gloss black

 Coil = gloss black

 Voltage regulator = gloss black

 Distributor = natural aluminum with gloss black cap

 Fuel and brake lines = natural steel

Undercarriage Details:

 Transmission = natural aluminum

 Bellhousing = natural aluminum

 Transmission support = semi-gloss black

 Driveshaft = natural steel

 Rear axle = semi-gloss black

 Rear swaybar = semi-gloss black

 Rear coil springs = gloss black

 Rear control arms = semi-gloss black

 Gas tank = natural steel (shiny)

 Gas tank straps = gloss black

 Parking brake cables = natural steel

_________________________

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IMO, anything is better than RUST! I was lucky and had someone with connections to have my booster gold cadmium plated. It was / is subtle, not looking like 14K gold plate like some spray cans. My M/C is black but should be natural cast iron gray (Eastwood sells a nice cast iron gray spray paint) M/C lid should look like the booster. If you use DOT-3 brake fluid most spray paint's will come off when you spill brake fluid on the paint.

Bruce

 

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Eastwood also sells a kit to paint the booster to make it look like the cadmium plating. I friend of mine did his 67 Cutlass and it looks really good. I do not know if it is brake fluid resistant or not.

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I know already that you bought that Cardone item. Why not take it back and buy one from our vendors. SS396.com has 11" w/delco for 179.95 #BMK-11SD and 169.95 without delco. That also has no bleeders. I would go with #BMK-11BD 194.95 different master cyl. with bleeders. I put that in my Monte and it really stops great. Check them out.

 

Carl

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Thanks for the feedback, guys!

 

Bob, the list you sent from Bill is probably what I remembered (vaugely) seeing awhile back. Thanks for sending that. I will print it and file it in my Monte library for future reference.

 

Bruce, it would be great to have the gold cadnium plating but I'm going to have to settle for something less this time. I need to find a satin gold paint, but that will still be subject to brake fluid spills. frown

 

Larry, the kit from Eastwood sounds promising so thanks for that lead.

 

Carl, glad to know about your parts source. By the time I saw your reply, I had already started paint prep on this Cardone unit but I'll sure check out your site for parts in the future.

 

Based on everyone's input and a review of the engines section of our Members Montes forum, I plan to go with a gold booster and master cylinder lid and a virgin cast iron look on the master cylinder and proportioning valve. My SS car will never be a serious show car (at least while I own it) but I do want to keep it close to original so I can enter in local car shows in the stock class.

 

I've entered two shows here in MN this summer and have one to go. Haven't placed yet and don't really expect to but the Monte sure gets its share of attention from the older generation.

 

Thanks again for your replies and advice!

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Just wanted to share what I've been playing around with the past two days in case anyone else is interested. Needing to replace the master cylinder and vacuum booster on my '70 SS, I decided to try for a more "original" look on a budget.

 

The Gold Cad Kit from Eastwood that Larry mentioned sounded interesting but also gave me the idea to try their approach with locally available paint supplies - most I already had. The Eastwood approach is to paint the booster and reservior cover with a base coat of bright gold metallic and then mist red and green highlights over that followed by a clear coat. You can see it at the following web address: http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/905/

 

After degreasing the new (remanufactured) parts, I applied a base coat of Dupli-Color Gold Metallic Lacquer which dries quickly. Then I misted highlights randomly onto the dry base coat using banner red gloss enamel and spruce satin enamel. That really "tones down" the bright gold and makes the surface almost iridescent, much like gold cadnium plating. Finally, a coat of clear matt was applied (although clear semi-gloss or satin may have been better). Sunlight is best for bringing out the highlights as seen in the photo below.

 

P9043566.jpg

 

Before removing the original booster and master cylinder (which I had painted with bright gold metallic and cast iron paints last summer), I set the freshly painted booster up beside them for comparison. You can definitely see a difference in color tint and brightness (below).

 

P9053570.jpg

 

After pulling the original booster out, I again compared them side by side in natural light. You can see more of the green highlights when viewed straight on but the red highlights really show up better when viewed from an angle.

 

P9053605.jpg

 

The remanufactured Bendix master cylinder and original proportioning valve were stripped to bare cast iron and a coat of clear matt was applied. After installing the freshly painted parts, the look is certainly not perfect, but it seems a lot closer to "original" than what I had before and it was a cheap and fun addition to an otherwise boring repair project.

 

P9053617.jpg

 

The wire bale is not on the reservoir cover because I haven't yet filled the new master cylinder with fluid. I will do that tomorrow and then bleed the entire system so I can get the Monte back on the road. I'm sure better results can be achieved with this painting process with more practice. The base coat of lacquer allows the red and green enamel highlights to be easily removed with mineral spirits if the desired look is not achieved on the first try. I hope to make a more complete photo journal of the entire repair project when I find some time. Replacing a vacuum booster is simple ... but not what I would call easy! smile

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