MC1of80

X2 to what Rob said. Hook the smaller wire up to the fender.

Glad the 9v worked Willie! The rad support gets grounded through the body with the ground strap from the firewall to the frame. You could always add another if you like. I always use the "trifecta" theory. Bigger ground cables, one from the body to the frame, second from the frame to engine and the third from the engine to the body. Bad grounds will always give you weird electrical Gremlins.

Good luck with her! Safe trip home!

Sorry Willie, not quite sure. Something like removing the amp gauge lead at the regulator and touching it to the 9v. Read it on a Chevelle site. Was going to try it on "barn find". Haven't gotten to that issue yet. Lol

I read you can use a 9v battery to move it back or just turn the needle back to where it has to be. Easier said than done.

First and foremost, great fabrication on the tail panel. BUT with all the issues you are having, wouldn't it have been cheaper and faster to have found a good tailpanel from AZ Chevies, dessert valley or the like? Or maybe a member here has a parts car with those pieces that are good? My brother and I are currently "out of stock" on both parts. Same goes for the lower part where the bumper bolts to and meets the chassis. I also have been curious for years if the 68-69 Chevelle tailpanel will mostly work.

Hey Willie. There are threads on the amp gauge pointing down and how to "reset" it. Mostly on Chevelle sites. Sounds like the regulators contacts "cooked" from the battery being on and going dead causing the vibrating noise.

Hey Willie. Could that 72 be an early built 72 and have some leftover 71 stuff?

Congrats!!! Glad you fixed your issue! Next!!! Lol. They're never done....

Looks great! Quick simple answer? A piece of electrical tape from behind. Not trying to sound like a smartass.

Have a safe trip Jared! I also want to drive ol Route 66 in one of my Montes. Someday........ 🤔

Go to the sponsors section on this site for a bunch. I also like Ground Up, the Parts Place, eBay, craigslist, and most of all the fellow members here. Ask for what you need and someone will have it. Those are just a few.

I'm not saying that's why. Just possibly/most likely why. Glad to hear she runs. That most likely means that the rod moved enough to let the cam turn. So it may not be as bad as thought. 😁 Once freed up, if in ok shape you could hold the rod against the cam and crank the engine. The rod should go in and out of the block to check the fuel pump rod lobe on the cam.

On the block, under the fuel pump rod is a threaded "plug". Remove that so when you free up the pushrod it will pass through the block. Try spraying the rod with some penatrating fluid. In your pics, the bolts spoken about are not there. Spray the penatrating oil in those holes. Most likely that's how the rod rusted in the block in the first place and why that part of the engine has excessive oil on it. Then using a heat source, torch, propane torch, heat up the rod and block a few cycles. Try and loosen up the rod with long nose vise grips locked onto the rod.

You state the front brakes dont work like you feel they should. I would also check the front rubber lines to the front calipers. Over time some tend to swell up inside and hamper the calipers from providing the correct pressure to stop properly.

That would be your best and safest bet. Like I stated somewhere. Lol my eagle rotating assy could have been either also. Happens to be a neutral balance 496 crank.

Look at the spec card that came with it or call Callies

Yes indeed they do. I used them on another Monte project years ago.

What Canuck and RealRed70 said and pictured. No bowtie emblem, those are repops. Only the derby caps that say Chevrolet motor division are correct. RealRed70, PM sent.

You're welcome. I believe you should be able to do it that way also.

I would put them in. Keeps the body and chassis from "meeting" when flexing.

Looks to be some " backyard engineering" I have seen worse. Lol the bracket you have pictures should bolt directly to the frame. Maybe your binding issue is from the height of the installed set up?

Alot of parts are like that. Just a "phantom" fit.

Looking good! Especially with the slight overhang, I vote for all the tail mouldings. I feel the 72 should have it/them. That's one of the unique parts that make the 72 distinct from the 70 and 71.

Lolol apologies Rob