MC1of80

Yes, those holes are supposed to be there and open. I believe they are for letting any water that may get by the outer window felts out of the car by going into the rocker panels and out. Instead of sitting there and/or going into the interior.

So what happens when the car sits, any car with an automatic transmission, is the fluid in the torque converter drains back into the transmission. Fluid naturally seeks to be level. That's why when some cars sit, they tend to leak. The little hole is to relieve air pressure when the yoke goes in and out of the transmission tailshaft over bumps. Only transmission tailshaft a that have the o-ring inside should have this hole. I recommend replacing the o-ring with a new pliable one or replacing the yoke with one without a hole. Just remember if you do, to remove the o-ring completely.

Hi Rick! Welcome to the club! Looks like you started with a great example and have done it justice. Looks great! Love the pics!

Great job Patrick!! Looks beautiful!

It's coming out of the driveshaft yolk. In the center. There is most likely a small hole. It's very common.

I have gotten a complete fabricated set up from Dan as well as another set of air compressor brackets and I will tell you his craftsmanship is second to none!!!! Highly recommend!!!

Hey everyone. Been a moment between the rain. Lol we finished the engine install. Swapped out the th400 for one we had "in stock" from my 70 SS. Installed a 2500 stall Hughes torque converter that was "in stock". Installed new steel transmission lines that I had kicking around for too long. Lol. After that we installed the 2 1/2inch flowmaster exhaust system that was also "in stock" with new SS exhaust tips. Then while it was still on the stands we swapped out the upper and lower control arms with polyurethane bushings previously installed, that, I know you are tired of hearing this (I'm sorry) were "in stock", well they were. Lol and then swapped the steering box and all the steering linkage. The box was, you know by now, "in stock" LOL but the linkage was not. Here are a few pics....

Looking great Walter! Keep up the great work!

Planning to be there Rob. As long as the event is held. Who knows at this point if it will be. Fingers crossed that it will be held. 🙏

Glad it worked. If you get to NY, we will have that beverage! Lolol

The only ways I know are, use a wrench and manually take the nuts/bolts out. Or if you can, take the cables off of the motor/engine going to the transmissions and put a drill on the end and try to move the motor that way. The cables are like speedometer cable.

Hey Thomas, hope this helps. I have it saved for myself from eBay. It's The Parts Place though.

Hey Wayne, HEI distributors need a 12v constant keyed power source. Meaning you should have constant 12v with the ignition key turned on only. There may be a terminal on your fuse block, between the banks of fuses, where power accessories would have been plugged into. I would find one that has 12v switched power and tap into that for the HEI distributor.

You will most likely starve the pump of fuel on right hand turns with the way the sump is mounted. Just saying.

Again, great work. I understand the reasoning for the sump. I have drag raced numerous cars with sumps. The question is why the sidways mounting? The lines should be facing the rear bumper for the theory of the sump to work properly feeding the fuel pump fuel. I have never seen a sideways mounted one. Not saying it's wrong, just questioning.

Welcome to the club! You have done alot of work. She looks great! Why the sideways sump in the tank?

Wow Bob. So sorry, I typed a response Sunday to you but didn't finalize sending it. Ughhhhhh! Main reasons for me are... Longer cable More positive retention at the carb bracket (which will need to be replaced also) as compared to the stock rubber slip on design More positive retention at the carb. (Need to change from stock ball style to stud style.) With the stock style cable, in some situations/set ups it is too short. The longer cable let's you use just about any set up. (Intake/spacer combo) Plus, it's new. Lol Photo- 1- comparison of new cable (top) to old (bottom) lengths. 2- cable retention at carburetor bracket 3- cable retention at the carburetor 4- the part that goes through the firewall to gas pedal 5- the 2 "things" that need to be trimmed, filed, grinded, cut from both sides of the g-body cable for it to lock into the firewall. 6- after modification Before installing the cable through the firewall, slice/cut the white bushing from the gas pedal side and remove from the cable. After installing the cable to the firewall, pull the cable through the hole in the gas pedal bracket and reinstall the previously removed bushing. Then snap the bushing into the gas pedal bracket. 7- new cable installed and secured. All fluids done, gauges installed MSD installsed. Just got delivery of the fuel fittings and lines. Probably tomorrow's project and then fire up! Lol

Not sure how the lines attach but Ground Up has a couple of rear disc brake kits on clearance. They are listed under Chevelle. Just happen to be bouncing around their site a few minutes ago.

Well, here's today's progress. Have the MSD, throttle cable conversion (To longer 78-88 g-body) fuel line from the pump to carb, and fluids. Then we see how it goes. Lol

She's looking really great! Fantastic job you are doing!

Hey Todd. The vacuum pump kit I used, I purchased from summit. I looked real quick and didn't see it. I believe it was this one made by SSBC. The pic is just for a reference. Again, I purchased mine thru Summit.

If only hi works on the blower motor check/change the blower resistor. 9 out of 10 times it's the resistor.

Messed around a little today between rain drops.

Hey Artie! We spoke about this already. Lol. Face to face. Yes you can run a 275/60r15 with a 4.5 backspace on a 8in rim. On some Montes you may have to slightly trim the inner lip of the quarter panel. Depending on how low your car sits. I have 275/60r15 bfg drag radials and radial t/a on 15x8 with 4.5 bs rally rims with no issues.

Hey Ronald. I used m&h wiring harnesses for the engine and front lamps in my 70 SS. Fit great and all the correct connectors. I will use all their harnesses when I'm up to it in my 71 402 4 speed resto.