MC1of80

Small block or big block? Small block- behind the intake near the distributor. Big block- above the oil filter. Both are stock locations for the factory unit. Just replace the factory for the aftermarket.

Hey T.J. Welcome to the club! I hope you find your unicorn! Doesn't seem impossible to find.

Willie, try The Parts Place. I believe either they or someone on eBay sells the lower trim clip/fastener kit. Not the tailpanel trim though. Haven't seen those. ☹️

Do you have another battery? Try another battery. I have had a few batteries that checked out fine but did the same thing you are describing. Internal short in the battery. Was the battery just checked for 12 v and load tested? Also, check where the small positive wire is connected. The 70 n 71 have the little block on the radiator support by the battery. I believe the 72 is at the horn relay on the firewall behind the brake booster area. Still think it's the battery though.

Since the battery is fully charged. You state that the starter clicks. Which means power and ignition power is present. I say the starter took a poop. How old is it? Is it stored in a damp area? The car that is. The internals of the starter may have corroded/rusted.

Silly question, is the battery fully charged? Did you check it or have it checked. At the moment, it sounds like a dead/weak battery. Also check the connections at the starter. Make sure they are tight. The starter grounds through the body of the starter withe the bolts to the block (engine). The engine should have a ground from the block to the firewall and or frame.

You are very welcome 😊

Any one. Even a 6cyl model will work. Just not a convertible crossmember.

That will work but it's actually for a 4 speed car. The little extension opposite the trans mount is for the Muncie shifter. Also, if it's for a convertible, it will not fit. To short. An El Camino crossmember from 68-72 will fit.

You should have no problem. If you are planning on using an air cleaner you will need a dropped base one.

Rob, this is truly a remarkable feat you have done with the assistance of the Carlisle people. I for one can't thank you enough for all you have done and continue to do for the club! With all you have going on in your personal life, to get this momentus feat done is above and beyond anything I have ever seen! I for one THANK YOU!!!! My brother and I are trying to get back on track to be part of this with our Montes. Again, thank you and to all the other officers for what they all do! Hats off to you all!!!!

What brand paint are you using? My 71 402 4speed is going back to the original classic copper also.

Looks like your first attempt is a keeper! Great job! Can't wait to see the Monte painted! Are you painting it the same color?

Hey Mark. Using the Chevelle crossmember deletes the Monte Carlos rubber mounts. It bolts directly to the crossmember. The G force crossmember bolts directly to the frame also. I did not have to modify it in any way. Bolted right in and gives you great exhaust clearance. You can tuck your exhaust up close to the floor if you like. Thank you for the compliment! The black carb fuel line/log took awhile to find. I believe I bought it from summit.

I believe the reproductions of the Chevelle crossmember is not as bent as the originals like you have stated.

Ok, depends on how you want to go. The reason for replacing the factory Monte Carlo crossmember is due to the rubber isolators at the ends of it. Through time they tend to rot out the crossmember there. With a high horsepower car it usually pulls the crossmember out of the rubber and feels like a broken motor mount when accelerating. The reason for the Chevelle crossmember being used is that it used to be readily available and the only thing that fit and bolted directly to the frame. No aftermarket crossmembers back then. Lolol The one you have pictured is a great piece. I have one in my 70 SS. It will take whatever you throw at it horsepower wise. It is a heavy piece tho if you are looking for weight savings.

Agree with cbolt. Look into a stock replacement cable and an aftermarket or even factory bracket.

Speaking personally for the glasteck hood, it is 4". The hood that Canuck is posting is described to be like the pic he posted. We will have to wait for a pic. 🤔

Looking good Willie! Hope the weather cooperates with you! Can't wait to see her painted!

X2 to what Rob said. Hook the smaller wire up to the fender.

Glad the 9v worked Willie! The rad support gets grounded through the body with the ground strap from the firewall to the frame. You could always add another if you like. I always use the "trifecta" theory. Bigger ground cables, one from the body to the frame, second from the frame to engine and the third from the engine to the body. Bad grounds will always give you weird electrical Gremlins.

Good luck with her! Safe trip home!

Sorry Willie, not quite sure. Something like removing the amp gauge lead at the regulator and touching it to the 9v. Read it on a Chevelle site. Was going to try it on "barn find". Haven't gotten to that issue yet. Lol

I read you can use a 9v battery to move it back or just turn the needle back to where it has to be. Easier said than done.

First and foremost, great fabrication on the tail panel. BUT with all the issues you are having, wouldn't it have been cheaper and faster to have found a good tailpanel from AZ Chevies, dessert valley or the like? Or maybe a member here has a parts car with those pieces that are good? My brother and I are currently "out of stock" on both parts. Same goes for the lower part where the bumper bolts to and meets the chassis. I also have been curious for years if the 68-69 Chevelle tailpanel will mostly work.