MC1of80

You should have no problem. If you are planning on using an air cleaner you will need a dropped base one.

Rob, this is truly a remarkable feat you have done with the assistance of the Carlisle people. I for one can't thank you enough for all you have done and continue to do for the club! With all you have going on in your personal life, to get this momentus feat done is above and beyond anything I have ever seen! I for one THANK YOU!!!! My brother and I are trying to get back on track to be part of this with our Montes. Again, thank you and to all the other officers for what they all do! Hats off to you all!!!!

What brand paint are you using? My 71 402 4speed is going back to the original classic copper also.

Looks like your first attempt is a keeper! Great job! Can't wait to see the Monte painted! Are you painting it the same color?

Hey Mark. Using the Chevelle crossmember deletes the Monte Carlos rubber mounts. It bolts directly to the crossmember. The G force crossmember bolts directly to the frame also. I did not have to modify it in any way. Bolted right in and gives you great exhaust clearance. You can tuck your exhaust up close to the floor if you like. Thank you for the compliment! The black carb fuel line/log took awhile to find. I believe I bought it from summit.

I believe the reproductions of the Chevelle crossmember is not as bent as the originals like you have stated.

Ok, depends on how you want to go. The reason for replacing the factory Monte Carlo crossmember is due to the rubber isolators at the ends of it. Through time they tend to rot out the crossmember there. With a high horsepower car it usually pulls the crossmember out of the rubber and feels like a broken motor mount when accelerating. The reason for the Chevelle crossmember being used is that it used to be readily available and the only thing that fit and bolted directly to the frame. No aftermarket crossmembers back then. Lolol The one you have pictured is a great piece. I have one in my 70 SS. It will take whatever you throw at it horsepower wise. It is a heavy piece tho if you are looking for weight savings.

Agree with cbolt. Look into a stock replacement cable and an aftermarket or even factory bracket.

Speaking personally for the glasteck hood, it is 4". The hood that Canuck is posting is described to be like the pic he posted. We will have to wait for a pic. 🤔

Looking good Willie! Hope the weather cooperates with you! Can't wait to see her painted!

X2 to what Rob said. Hook the smaller wire up to the fender.

Glad the 9v worked Willie! The rad support gets grounded through the body with the ground strap from the firewall to the frame. You could always add another if you like. I always use the "trifecta" theory. Bigger ground cables, one from the body to the frame, second from the frame to engine and the third from the engine to the body. Bad grounds will always give you weird electrical Gremlins.

Good luck with her! Safe trip home!

Sorry Willie, not quite sure. Something like removing the amp gauge lead at the regulator and touching it to the 9v. Read it on a Chevelle site. Was going to try it on "barn find". Haven't gotten to that issue yet. Lol

I read you can use a 9v battery to move it back or just turn the needle back to where it has to be. Easier said than done.

First and foremost, great fabrication on the tail panel. BUT with all the issues you are having, wouldn't it have been cheaper and faster to have found a good tailpanel from AZ Chevies, dessert valley or the like? Or maybe a member here has a parts car with those pieces that are good? My brother and I are currently "out of stock" on both parts. Same goes for the lower part where the bumper bolts to and meets the chassis. I also have been curious for years if the 68-69 Chevelle tailpanel will mostly work.

Hey Willie. There are threads on the amp gauge pointing down and how to "reset" it. Mostly on Chevelle sites. Sounds like the regulators contacts "cooked" from the battery being on and going dead causing the vibrating noise.

Hey Willie. Could that 72 be an early built 72 and have some leftover 71 stuff?

Congrats!!! Glad you fixed your issue! Next!!! Lol. They're never done....

Looks great! Quick simple answer? A piece of electrical tape from behind. Not trying to sound like a smartass.

Have a safe trip Jared! I also want to drive ol Route 66 in one of my Montes. Someday........ 🤔

Go to the sponsors section on this site for a bunch. I also like Ground Up, the Parts Place, eBay, craigslist, and most of all the fellow members here. Ask for what you need and someone will have it. Those are just a few.

I'm not saying that's why. Just possibly/most likely why. Glad to hear she runs. That most likely means that the rod moved enough to let the cam turn. So it may not be as bad as thought. 😁 Once freed up, if in ok shape you could hold the rod against the cam and crank the engine. The rod should go in and out of the block to check the fuel pump rod lobe on the cam.

On the block, under the fuel pump rod is a threaded "plug". Remove that so when you free up the pushrod it will pass through the block. Try spraying the rod with some penatrating fluid. In your pics, the bolts spoken about are not there. Spray the penatrating oil in those holes. Most likely that's how the rod rusted in the block in the first place and why that part of the engine has excessive oil on it. Then using a heat source, torch, propane torch, heat up the rod and block a few cycles. Try and loosen up the rod with long nose vise grips locked onto the rod.

You state the front brakes dont work like you feel they should. I would also check the front rubber lines to the front calipers. Over time some tend to swell up inside and hamper the calipers from providing the correct pressure to stop properly.