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I've used solder (not silver solder) when putting quarter panels on in the past, but in a case like yours....wouldn't be worth the effort in regards to getting all the tools etc to do the repair. Plus if you're not careful, adding more heat to repair may open the whole thing up and make a bigger mess. All-Metal filler by USC will work. It's waterproof, and very durable. You could probably use Dura-Glas from them as well. It's a green, fiber reinforced filler, very durable too.

Hey James, If you're talking about the hydroboost in my car above, it seemed to work good. I only drove it a little before tearing into it (no plates, registration, snow & salt everywhere at the time). Little different than a regular booster, but the same as driving my truck I guess, GMC 2500HD. The cam that's in the motor presently is a little lopey, makes about 10-11 inHg vacuum at idle, figure that's why the previous owner converted it. If I put the LS6 454 in the car, I may go back as the stock solid lifter cam makes enough vacuum to work with the original style booster, at least it worked fine when I had that motor in my old Monte years ago. Then again, it's already there...

Thanks! Yeah Paul, behind the house. 65x40, 12 foot ceilings in the main part, an office/parts area and added a spray booth area later. I did a lot of work out there until a year or so ago. Finally got tired of burning the candle at 3 ends. Started by peeling off the collision and restoration work a few years ago and then stopped the mechanical and diagnostic work too. Apparently I got bored, or nostalgic and ended up with the '72... At least it's my stuff now instead of everyone else's vehicles.

They're not learning too much, their nicknames are 'dumb and dumber' 😁. In all fairness the little one is a 5 month old puppy. Just lost the 8 yrs old to cancer recently. Put a real damper on wanting to do anything out in the shop for the last month and a half.

Finally starting to dig in on the disassembly to get the body off to clean and paint everything. Had some little helpers...

Find the dead cylinder first, either by an IR gun as suggested above or pulling a plug wire at a time. Then I'd probably pull the valve covers and look for loose or broken rocker arms or broken valve springs. If you find a loose one, it may suggest a bad cam lobe too. You'd maybe hear some type of ticking noise though if it was sloppy enough. A compression test may point you in a direction as well. Just a couple of thoughts.

Those parts for the horn contact are included in the K137 kit.

I ordered all the stuff from Classic Industries (same as a Camaro wheel). Available from most places though. Parts I ordered were: Horn Cap Mounting set (makes the horn work) - K137 Horn Cap Retainer (plastic part that goes inside cover & snaps into the metal horn ring) - 329738 Horn Cap (bowtie emblem slips into the center, this may have come from OPGI because I forgot it with the Classic Ind. order) - 459003 Horn Cap Emblem (just a Chevy Bowtie)- 3992304

I've always had good luck with the Aircraft Stripper, usually Kleenstrip brand I think. Usually get it from the auto paint supply store (looks like advance auto, etc has it though now). If you do use the stripper, maybe try to keep it out of seams and places like door skin flanges, trunk flanges, etc where the sheetmetal folds over. You don't want that stuff leaching out down the road and possibly bubble up after you refinish the car. A strip of masking tape to cover them up may help keep the chemical from accidently getting in there. I usually just stay away from the edges and DA or wire wheel those areas after. If it turns out there's a clearcoat or something tough and the stripper doesn't seem to work, you can rough the paint up with some coarse sandpaper real quick and that will help the stripper work much better. Just a couple of thoughts. Crappy job no matter how you look at it

Someone makes gauges that fit into the idiot light spots, however you mentioned you wanted to keep them. Here is the info for you to at least look at as an option. Made by Shiftworks, but available from Summit, Jegs, etc. Says it only works on dashes with idiot lights. Certainly will keep the 'covert' look you want. https://shiftworks.com/collections/gauges-upgrades/products/1970-72-chevelle-gauge-conversion https://www.summitracing.com/parts/siw-s511-w https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/siw-s511-g.pdf

The windshield seal on my 72 appears to be original, and failed completely. I can push the window out by hand. However.... there are also some minor holes in the A-pillar where water can find its way thru that I'll need to repair as well. Saw it after I pulled the stainless window molding. My prior 72 had the same A-pillar issue on the passenger side, way back in the late 80's that needed to be addressed when I had a new windshield put in. Hopefully you don't run into that on your car.

We just had Dairy Queen tonight here at work , sent the boss out to pick it up.

Not in the least. The McD around here has the most inept, slowest misfits I've ever seen. More than enough times the veins in my head had almost exploded waiting for a couple of Eggamuffins, only to be met with attitude at the window, and crappy hockey pucks for a meal besides. Talked to the manager one time after I got to work and she was beat down by the jackholes as well. I felt sorry for HER. It was semi-tolerable when they had 2 for $3 or something like that, not now at full price. I go back every year or so when I have to, but same disappointment. By contrast, Burger King has a decent breakfast sandwich, they're very quick and the girls are always wonderful. Plus they have 2 for $4.

My first 72 Custom with dark saddle interior, tilt and NK4 steering wheel had a black column. The present 72 Custom with dark saddle interior and NK33 wheel has a black column as well (as Canuck has just pointed out). I was thinking about spraying the column dark saddle when I get it out, but it'll probably look stupid with the black steering wheel, so I'll re-spray it black. If I was putting an aftermarket steering wheel on it, that may have swayed my choice.

I'm sort of in the same boat, looking for all of that stuff. I did a lot of searching thru the old posts here and it seemed like a lot of people recommended 'Metro Moulded' as a supplier for the door, trunk, and hood seals. Soft Seal seemed like it has a good following too. I think some liked that the Metro seals were soft, as others had trouble with some vendors seals being too stiff and interfering with the trunk closing, etc. I've run into that before, big pain.... I saw those complete kits from OPG last week, but decided to order them separately based on the above. I ordered this paint seal kit from OPG though, and it should be here this week (20% off last week so I got it there): https://www.opgi.com/monte-carlo/PSK977/ Seems like it is a "RESTOPARTS' branded part (OPGI's brand I think), but it is also available at Summit. Some things are, and somethings aren't from what I've noticed. If you had a bunch of stuff to get from Summit anyways, things like this might push you towards the free shipping threshold. I haven't called Metro yet to order, but from what it seems on their website, they would have all of the other seals needed in my case.

PM'd. Thank you both! Edit: After talking with Dan, there is a definite difference between the 2 types. It appears that the inlet hole on the non-AC vent is almost a 1/2" larger, and the overall length is shorter as well. Square peg in a round hole for my purposes. He had a passenger replacement vent in stock and is sending it out. Couldn't be happier!

Thanks Thomas, Yeah, my passenger side has all the ears broken. The louvers are crappy and so is the chrome on the vents as well. Figured it would be easier to just replace everything. On my 72, there are NO levers or flap doors at all. The car is an original AC car, and my old 72 Custom was an AC car as well with no levers or flappers. Maybe in 72 they didn't have them? Also one of the pictures shows a flat surface where the tubes from the plenum attach, but that may just be a generic photo. Both of mine definitely have a round inlet for the tube to connect to on the backside of the assembly.

I need these, but my car has A/C. OPG specifically says 'for non-AC cars'. Just wondering why they are saying non-AC, and what the actual differences may be. If it's just the lack of the deflector side lever as I've seen on some cars, no big deal, mine don't have them anyways. If it's going to be a square peg in a round hole though, that's another story then. Worst case, I can repair the housing (broken mounting tabs), but the vents need replaced anyways. https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/product/1972/dash-side-outer-vent-deflector-assemblies-pr/55376 https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CH26361/

Does anyone sell the side vent assemblies for an A/C car? My 72 has a busted passenger side housing, plus the vents need replaced anyways. I figured I would just get the assemblies, but noticed on the OPGI site they mentioned non-AC. Saw them at the Parts Place as you mentioned and figured they're the same as OPGI's. From the pictures they look similar but what are the differences?

"He who dies with the most toys, wins" is a quote I hear often. Granted, you're still dead I tell people, but in theory it sounds good.

Hope you have a speedy recovery and get well soon. Joe T

Spenser-For Hire, with Robert Urich and Avery Brooks. Hunter, with Fred Dryer One of my all time favorites was NYPD Blue, but think it started after 1990

Columbo with Peter Falk

By all indications it's a 2-series carrier. The pinion gear is going to pretty much be a 'fixed' location (proper depth required though for proper tooth engagement with ring gear). The carrier assembly is going to be set left/right based on that to get proper tooth engagement & backlash. With that spacer and 2-series carrier, it's pretty much going to land where it is with shims to get set up for an acceptable pattern. Most sources will agree though, that the spacer & the ring gear bolts in a double shear situation aren't ideal for any high horsepower use.

Sort of in a similar situation here. Going with Legendary to re-do my front & rear seats, and the front & rear door panels. The fronts were done by the prior owner with PUI (from Tamraz, took forever he said). Look nice, but the pattern probably won't match the new seats, and the rears need done anyways. If I get PUI for the back I just won't be happy. Spoke with Chris over there and seems like all will be good with them. Also got an email from them with a 15% off coupon good for a day, but he said they will honor it for all my stuff. They're about an hour away from me so I plan to drop everything off the week after next. It'll be a good opportunity to see what their shop looks like too. Sounds like they're a one stop shop for anything interior related because he asked about everything. Everything pretty much made to order so the timing could be from 4-8 weeks possibly (at least that's what he said in my case, but I may go with their 'Rally' style front seat covers & foam), so that may figure into your plans as well. They'll assess everything when it gets there to check out the foam, springs, seat frames, etc. I'll report back what I find after I go there if you're interested to see what the place seems like. Joe T