monte70car

Darren, here is one option: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-60109/ Or this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500412/ A cruise control brake switch is in my 70 and a manual toggle switch. The toggle switch stays in off and when the brakes are applied it disengages.

Darren, here is one option: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-60109/ Or this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500412/ A cruise control brake switch is in my 70 and a manual toggle switch. The toggle switch stays in off and when the brakes are applied it disengages.

Darren, there used to a 700r4 harness available at Summit racing. There is a pressure port on the drivers side of the transmission. Having a threaded Speedo cable sounds like an older trans or maybe someone changed the trail housing.

I have two Bow tie overdrive 700r4 their stage 2 transmission. Both transmissions have a 2200-2400 stall and B&M trick shift fluid. One of the 700r4 is in a 3200lbs car with a 355 small block and a 3.70 rear gear. Car moves really great, at one time we threw a 5.13 gear in the rear and was able to cruise in the 2,000 rpm at 55mph. The other one is in a 3820lbs Monte with a 402 big block and a stock 2.73. Yes a 2.73 gear ain’t ideal when you are trying to cruise in the 2,000 rpm range. But the car is perfectly happy stays right in the 1,650-1,700 range running 55-60 mph. And when you get down on it the car doesn’t wait it picks up and goes. Now the 2.73 gear does make it slow off the line but it makes up for it by speed. If you call bow tie overdrive they will take the time and go over everything with you on the phone they will suggest a stall that will work with your setup and supply what you. On ours they even tested they before they were shipped across country. With a 700r4 they recommend using a turbo350 yoke as it’s the same spline as the 700 but it’s thicker. A 200r4 has a closet gear set in it where the 700r4 has a deep first gear (3.06).

You can add a water temp sender to the intake if you have an opening. Or you can get a spacer to raise the thermostat and allow for a sending unit to go there. If the TCS is hooked up you may want to leave it, if it’s not hooked up you can remove the TCS. Just remember to drain the coolant below the head or you will have a mess.

My is behind the dash and all the wires run through the firewall. I removed the a/c.

Someone at a eastern meet had the same problem and it came down to the calipers being bad.

Holley just came out with a sniper spreadbore EFI system.

Can you post a picture of your headlight plug? What Rod stated above is true the right side is connected to the left plug. So you would have two light green wires and two tan wires on the drivers side.

Here is a complete console kit http://www.chevelle.com/1970-72-Automatic-Console-Kit-wshifter-P7887.aspx here is a carpet kit http://www.chevelle.com/1968-72-Molded-Carpet-Deadener-Sill-Plate-Kit-P5004.aspx floor shift column http://www.chevelle.com/1969-72-Steering-Column-Floor-Shift-Automatic-P5728.aspx here is the 4 piece bracket kit http://www.chevelle.com/1964-72-Chevelle-Original-Style-Seat-Brackets-P3839.aspx

You shouldn’t need the NSS for the shifter as it should come with it installed. The padding under the carpet I would do sound and heat control on the floors. Also before you buy shop other suppliers as OPGI will cost more for the same part you can get for less. I like to shop at yearone.com and chevelle.com

Light would be good, but you can have copper traces that are burnt or broken which will cause the the lights not to work.

Paul does the horn blow? How about testing the wire where it plugs on to the horn does it have power there? If it had power there then it could be the horns.

Here is where one firewall padding plug is at. It’s just above the connection point for under the hood .

So there is plugs that hold the firewall padding on the firewall. The end of the plugs stick into the engine bay. If you cut the end of the plug off you can run the wires or line through that plug. I’ll post a picture once I get to one of my cars.

An oil port will work for the oil garage, mine is above the oil filter. As for the water gauge you also have a port on the passenger head like the drivers. If you want it in the intake you might have to get a t-stat housing that has a sensor port. For drilling holes cut the end of the firewall plugs this will allow you to run wires inside the car.

Its been awhile since my has run, but it is wired so the fans run after the car has been turned off and once it reaches the cool down temp the control box then cuts off.

Number 3 is within 5psi of the rest. 5 and 7 could have stickie valves which is allowing air to go out or could be a crack ring on both of those pistons. Sine you are unable to to smell have some smell the oil on the dipstick. A crack ring will let gas into the engine wiping oil off the cylinder walls. I know I had an engine in my 70 with a 750 Holley and it ran so rich it would make you cry.

Burning the eyes sounds like its running rich. Looking at the plugs you pulled on the right side there is one that's black compared to the rest on the side. Check the plug wire and make sure it doesn't have a burnt section on it maybe even change that wire. What type of carb are you running on your 396? could have too much gas going in the motor. I had a similar issue back when I had a Holley on my 402 and even changing the jet size and the pump cam still had a rich smell. Now it has a Q--jet on it and it runs better.

I would see how the rest of the metal feels ( usually tapping on it with a punch or a flat blade screw driver). Then cut the area out and make a patch panel.

Are you putting the ignition switch back in the correct way? I’m trying to remember if the switch comes out in the run/start mode or in the off position. Have you removed the nss switch on the column? That might need to be adjusted. It slides on the column once two screws are unlosen.

Larry it did something and it’s always in the same place. It always looks like there wasn’t enough paint in that spot but when you run your hand over it you feel holes like fisheyes. I know the primer was smooth before the color went down. I think it dried to fast, activator was 70-80 it was 75 when I painted it but probably hotter in the garage.

Not where I had hope to be this weekend seems like the top has my number. Up close it has all the flake like I want but it doesn't buff good. https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/33744619_1909262475775383_3544854466094170112_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=1117676676ec33ba5dd93a25dfbd674e&oe=5B8DC506

Shoot some color on the 72 this morning doesn’t look to bad. It’s black cherry pearl with 1 teaspoon of dry copper penny from HOK

Are you sure its Sandalwood? what does the trim tag list for trim? The only Sandalwood I see is cloth. I believe this is what your looking for https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-72-chevelle-monte-carlo-el-camino/cf771m41b