overdrive

Great looking car. Given it has an original air cleaner, I seriously doubt it's a Yenko car, even if their history showed they built one. My guess is a previous owner made it his own. Dan

The second photo that Bruce posted above has the hoses routed wrong, because the hoses will pass under the seal and get mashed when the hood closes. Like Aaron said, the nozzles should be further back, above the rear hood seal, for the '70 hose routing. Dan

The rear view is one of my favorite photos that I have. I'm doing a few small jobs on the SS this winter. I've replaced the air cleaner with one of better quality, replaced the original starter with a high torque Chevrolet starter, and converted the taillights to LED. 20200926_220827.mp4

Thanks for the info. Paul, I make the filters. Dan

I put my ARH headers on several years ago and they fit great. I don't know what I was doing wrong the day I was messing with the back drive linkage, but I didn't think it was going to fit and I put it on a shelf for later modification. When Alan asked me recently about my experience with the headers, I mentioned that issue. He asked for pictures, so I tried to install it again. I was glad to find it fits with zero issues. I don't know if I had a wrong piece of linkage the first time, or what. The tubes run close to the brake combination valve on the frame, but it doesn't ever touch and I've had no problems at all with the heat near the valve. I use a 2 quart truck oil filter and have no problem getting it past the headers. Changing the filter without dumping oil out is easy. The headers that were on the car when I got it had terrible clearance there, and I was using a one quart filter at that time. I used the Stage 8 header bolts and they are excellent. I would recommend them to everyone. Dan

You should probably call the gauge manufacturer to get tech help. The temp problem could be the wrong sending unit. That's one possibility. The tach must get the signal from the distributor. It seems like it doesn't. Dan

Have you gotten the parts? I was wondering about the part number. Dan

Glen, thanks for posting. I appreciate it. Dan

What assembly plant? Dan

To those with a '70 SS and a non-black column and steering wheel, what plant was your car assembled in? I have twelve '70 SS build sheet photos on my phone. All have black columns, but only 3 have black interior. I know not all had black columns, but I wonder if it's a plant specific thing. Obviously, the build sheets aren't from Flint cars. Dan

A writer did a good job on a story for me. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/new-products/make-your-chevy-horseshoe-shifter-a-true-slap-stick-gear-changer/

Oil the axles and the ball bearings that the casters rotate on. I have to re-oil mine every year or two. I have a set with plastic casters, and a set with steel casters. I only use the plastic ones under the back of a car. The steel ones work the best under the front of the car. Dan

Excellent progress. You're doing it right and a great job! Dan

I had typed a reply here a few days ago, but it didn't post. I sent you a PM. Dan

Welcome, and thanks for telling us about the car and your history with it. I'm glad you are caring for it. Dan

Great job! You guys are getting it done. Dan

Welcome! Looking forward to more photos sometime. It's beautiful! Dan

Welcome! If the car came from the factory with air shocks, it was because it had the G67 automatic level control option. If so, it would have had the compressor and tank assembly mounted on the inner fender on the driver's side. The compressor operated with engine vacuum and had a pressure line to a level sensing valve on the frame, above the rear axle. If you don't have the compressor, check to see if there are clips and/or an air line that follows the brake line to the rear, to a control valve. It's more likely that someone just added air shocks with a tee to fill them by the rear bumper. Chevrolet didn't offer the air shocks installed that way on Montes. Dan

Welcome to the site! As Willie noted, the partial VIN was not always on the pad by the head. It can be next to the oil filter. The partial VIN was used for warranty purposes, so it should definitely be in 1 of those 2 places. Dan

It's done. It should fit great and there is room for adjusting the solenoid, besides the plunger adjustment on the solenoid. The bracket has bare metal in 2 places to ensure good grounding of the solenoid. Dan

Paul, I made this bracket with your solenoid yesterday. I don't have an original air cleaner to check fit with, but I used my dropped base air cleaner. I would think that if it fits, and it does, the factory one will, but I can't be positive without testing it. I'll finish it up in a day or 2. Dan

I repainted mine. I took out any dings and polished them, then used wax and grease remover to remove the polishing compounds. I then taped over the high edge to sand the wider part with 600 grit. Took the tape off, degreased again, then retaped to have a clean edge after hitting the first tape with the sandpaper. I then screwed some trim clips onto a 2x6 to snap the trim on, with the taped edge up to prevent paint trying to run under the tape. Degreased it again, then used very light coats of satin paint. It covered well. Be careful to remove the tape correctly. Dan

Check with Jim Osborn Reproductions. Da.

Finished your set today. I didn't paint them, as requested. I bead blasted them and then coated them with WD-40 in a zip lock bag. They'll only need to degrease them for powder coat. Dan

As was noted above, the factory trim won't work for a vinyl top reaching the drip rails. Aftermarket tops were installed like you are describing, but I doubt the trim needed to install the top that way exists. Dan