Mike Brichta

That's where lots of patience, several stages of wet sanding and several stages of buffing come in to play. Good luck!! Mike

I have always had great success with Dupont products. They use what they call a "Value Shade" paint that you spray on the primer before you spray the base coat. A value shade of "7" is the darkest color (looks like ink) and that is what I used before spraying the basecoat. The basecoat is called "Super Jet Black" and is the blackest paint I have ever used. I have sprayed 3 cars so far and it always comes out great. For clearcoat I have been using something called Keystone Euro-clear and usually put on about 3-4 coats of clear followed by wet sanding and several stages of compounding/buffing. After 10 years the paint still looks great. Let me know if you would like more info. Mike

Do you still have a voltage regulator on the car? That is what determines how much current the alternator needs to put out. I cycles back and forth with the current based on the load. If you still are using a voltage regulator, I would strongly suggest upgrading to a high output (105amp) 1 wire alternator and eliminate the voltage regulator. All of your lights will be super bright and your battery will thank you. I have done the conversion an all of my cars. Good luck!! Mike

Wait!! What year is this? Well at least they still have Monte Carlos back then...

All of a sudden my speedometer needle won't go below 40 mph. It still works fine over 40. The odometer is working correctly. It's just like there is something dirty or sticking which won't allow the needle to go below 40. What are my options? - Keep driving and see if it resolves itself? - Ignore the problem? - Try to fix myself? (Preferred method) - Send for rebuild? - By aftermarket? Anyone else have a similar problem? Any suggestions? Thanks!! Mike

Here is the link (around the 11:45 mark) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-pEPE4LCFE

Would Rock Auto give you a credit or refund? If so, I would do that and look for a nice set of OEM vents. I would always use OEM over aftermarket. Just my two cents. Good luck!! Mike

What year is your Monte? I know that on my 72 there is a different wiring harness then my 70 and the high speed has an inline barrel fuse. Thanks!! Mike

When I first bought them years ago my girlfriend had to sleep on the couch too lol ...

No problem Phil. Glad to help out with your project. Good to meet another member. Good luck tomorrow at Englishtown and have a safe trip back home. Thanks!! Mike

Yes, that's the same place that I got mine repaired by. (hoodhingerepair.com) I was very satisfied with their process and product. Good luck!! Mike

I would suggest having yours rebuilt rather then aftermarket. I had a few sets of mine done and they are great. The guys who does them is an expert. Thanks!! Mike

I have a Custom also. Original info: - Baltimore MD Plant - 350 cu in/TH350/12 bolt posi (2.78) - Bronze color - Black Interior, bench seat - Factory gauges - Factory AC Now: - ZZ4 engine, Muncie 4 speed, 12 bolt posi (3.45) - Maroon paint (2" Cowl Induction Hood) - Black Interior, Bucket Seat/Console - Factory Gauges - Factory AC - Power Windows Thanks!! Mike

You think I will have it figured out by then? I've had this 4 speed in and out so many times I'm considering using zippers instead of bolts and nuts this time around. Maybe it will still be snowing in June ????? Thanks!! Mike

Hey Rob, I'm already on it because we all know "there is no crying in Monte projects" ... Thanks!! Mike

Mystery Solved!! After much research and many phone calls I was finally able to get GM to admit that a "batch of defective flywheels" were sold. The flywheels have the tooth ring incorrectly pressed onto the flywheel making the teeth to far from the starter to engage. Good news: I got a full refund for the flywheel including shipping Bad News: I have to purchase a new flywheel and pull the drivetrain apart to install it (again!!). I was hoping GM was going to do this for me (lol). I guess this is why we love this hobby so much, right? Thanks!! Mike

Is it possible that I need a different starter and bellhousing for my zz4 setup? I am currently trying to use the starter and bellhousing from a stock 4 speed car.

How can I determine what bellhousing I have? How many different belhousings did they make?

I would love to believe the problem is the starter but when I look at the picture of the recommended GM starter it looks like any other starter. Also, what reason would there be to move the ring gear back from the edge and make different flywheels and starters for so many cars?

Hey Guys, Boy, why is it that when I have a problem it always turns out to be one of those "I've never heard of that before" kind of problem? Here is what is going on. I just completed putting a GM ZZ4 engine with a Muncie M20 4-speed into my 72 Monte Custom. The last step was to install the starter and kick it off. When I hit the key, the starter spun but did not engage with the gears of the flywheel. That's strange. So when I crawled back under the car to check it out, I see that the starter gear was too far away from the ring gear on the flywheel. What I mean by that is the starter gear would have to extend about another 1/2" or more to be fully engaged with the gears on the flywheel. As it was it was not even making contact at all. The flywheel is brand new GM PN 14088648 (168 tooth, 14" outside diameter). I'm pretty sure that the ring gears around the flywheels are pressed on at the factory. When I looked at other Chevy flywheels I had around, they all have the ring gear on the back edge of the flywheel. My new one has the ring gear further front on the flywheel. If the ring gear on the new flywheel was at the same position as stock flywheels, my problem would be solved and I would be out driving right now. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this? I can only see (2) scenarios at this point: 1) The flywheel ring gear was pressed on incorrectly at the factory and I have to get another flywheel and pull everything apart again. Crap!! 2) There is a special starter with a longer nose and gear to extend to the deeper flywheel ring gear. I don't seem to see any starters like that. The suggested GM starter for my setup is PN 19302919. I'm thinking my best option at this point is to call around to a local Chevy dealer to see if they have a flywheel like mine in stock and then go to look at it. That will tell me if my flywheel is messed up. Any other thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated? Thanks!! Mike

Hey Chris, I'm sure a lot of members have done this and you will get lots of input. This is what I remember: - crossmember is the same, just moved to a different set of holes in the frame. th400 is further back on the frame. - trans mount is the same. - downshift mechanism is different - th350 uses a detent cable from carb to the trans. th400 uses a switch behind the gas pedal. You will need to make up some wires to supply power to pedal switch and then to downshift switch on th400. - dipsticks are different. - driveshaft is different, I believe the th400 is shorter. - driveshaft yoke is different. - shifter lockout mechanism is the same. If I think of anything else I will let you know. Good luck!! Mike

I have been using it in my 36 Packard for many years. I chose it for (2) reasons: - To protect my engine and engine rebuild investment. My engine is not easy to find any more and the cost to rebuild is significant compared to a SBC. No water means no rust. It is best to start using it after all of the water is removed from the cooling system (like an engine rebuild) since the product contains no water. - To prevent boil over. Cooling systems in the 1930's are not pressurized and when the engines get too hot in the summer they can boil over. Waterless coolant raises the boiling temperature to something really high and lowers the freezing point to something really low and since I have installed it, I never worry about either one. It is kind of expensive but I thought it was worth it in this case. I don't use it in any other cars because I am always changing things around on them. The product does what it claims in the ads. I know my local street rod shop sells a lot of it. Hope that helps!! Mike

I purchase this one for my 70 with AC and had no issues or complaints. Bolted right in and cools perfectly. Take the time to read their description as to why theirs is better. I thought it made a lot of sense. https://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-BEST-1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-Monte-Carlo-Aluminum-Radiator-NO-3-ROW-JUNK/322726215819?fits=Year%3A1970|Model%3AMonte+Carlo&hash=item4b23fb408b:g:IhsAAOxyzGlQ8IWJ&vxp=mtr Good luck!! Mike

What brand did you purchase?

Radio Shack was the first place I looked but I'm not sure they are in business anymore. They were nice to have around. I am looking to do just what you suggested, add some resistance to what it is already providing. I will keep trying to locate a place that sells inline resistors. Maybe a multi-pack. Thanks!! Mike