overdrive Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 I wasn't made aware of any starter issues when I bought my ARH's in 2016. I used my original Chevrolet starter and have had no problems at all. I also left the brake combination valve in the factory location. Again, zero issues with it. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 You folks that have the ARH, how's your number 8 spark plug accessibility with air conditioning? With what primary tube size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Hey Paul, my crate is still sitting in the cradle waiting on the return of my trans so I can't answer that yet. I know that doesn't help ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Paul, I mocked up the plenum box real quick & it looks like no big deal. Not easy, but not impossible either. I have a couple of different swivel sockets that work, so you may have to try something like that. My plugs are the smaller 5/8" variety. Header primary size is 1 7/8". (spark plugs are just broken off stubs I use for block painting). I'm sure it'll suck even more when the front end is all assembled. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 That looks waayyyy better that the 25+ year old Hooker SC headers I had! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Dropped the crate in today, The driver side header was difficult because I didnt cut the existing exhaust pipes back far enough and between that and the trans sitting under the car in the tunnel I was having clearance issues lol. We set the driver side in place sorta while we were dropping in the crate. Looks like plenty of room on the passenger side for the install but i'm glad Paul brought up the #8 spark plug issue and Joe add'd his work around. My next step is to cut the exhaust back some more and drop in the passenger side and bolt them in. I'll post an update and pic's when I get that done should be this week for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Installed the headers yesterday, the passenger side would not go in through the top but slid in nice from the bottom and bolted right in. The driver side was a PITA and i still have 2 header bolts fighting me not wanting to play well. I will have to do something with the proportioning valve as its basically laying against the header. I should have the starter and trans linkage and stuff addressed this weekend hopefully no issues there with clearance and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 On 3/18/2020 at 6:13 PM, jft69z said: Paul, I mocked up the plenum box real quick & it looks like no big deal. Not easy, but not impossible either. I have a couple of different swivel sockets that work, so you may have to try something like that. My plugs are the smaller 5/8" variety. Header primary size is 1 7/8". (spark plugs are just broken off stubs I use for block painting). I'm sure it'll suck even more when the front end is all assembled. Hey Joe, or Paul, have either of you had an issue with the #4 spark plug access ? Either I need a special plug socket or i'm going to have to remove the header to tighten # 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Hey Mark, my engine is still out so I'm pretty far off from knowing this answer. #4 plug is the second one back, the furthest back is #8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, Paul Bell said: Hey Mark, my engine is still out so I'm pretty far off from knowing this answer. #4 plug is the second one back, the furthest back is #8. Ok Paul, thanks for both posts. Maybe Joe has a fix/work around. And yes #8 is closest to the firewall and #2 is the 2nd back from the front. I haven't made it to the drivers side yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 lolz Mark, put yer glasses on. Passenger side cylinders front to rear are 2,4, 6, 8. 🧐 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 Lol Paul, yes its #4 cylinder plug, and its the second plug back from the front #2 plug. My mind was working faster than my typing fingers. At least I got it right in my original question/post lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 No issues here for the # 4 plug. Straight shot basically, & I just tried it with the same socket I pictured earlier (top one of the two shown) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 5 minutes ago, jft69z said: No issues here for the # 4 plug. Straight shot basically, & I just tried it with the same socket I pictured earlier (top one of the two shown) Ok maybe I need a smaller socket lol. Mine looks a little chubbier than your lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 12 minutes ago, DragCat said: Ok maybe I need a smaller socket lol. Mine looks a little chubbier than your lol As long as I get it off, who cares, lol But really, my socket is actually part of the universal joint. Still, shouldn't make a difference. But....I just noticed your socket is 13/16", my heads take the 5/8" plugs. Are you having trouble even getting the socket on the plug? Maybe a little bit of work with a die grinder or a half round file to open up that flange pocket may help if that's the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 3 minutes ago, jft69z said: As long as I get it off, who cares, lol But really, my socket is actually part of the universal joint. Still, shouldn't make a difference. But....I just noticed your socket is 13/16", my heads take the 5/8" plugs. Yea my socket is from a different set than the "wobble" and extensions. The socket alone won't clear the header pipe to grab the plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 What exactly is the issue then? The socket won't go completely onto the plug (either with or without a universal or extension), or are you having a problem with the angle of attack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 15, 2020 Author Share Posted April 15, 2020 12 hours ago, jft69z said: What exactly is the issue then? The socket won't go completely onto the plug (either with or without a universal or extension), or are you having a problem with the angle of attack. I'm gonna say the angle of attack, the socket alone will not pass the header pipe to slide down onto the spark plug to tighten it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Do you think opening up this part of the header flange a bit with a file or die grinder will help the socket slide in better (this is a different cylinder, # 6 I believe, but you get the point). It won't have any effect on strength or sealing if you just radius that sharp edge maybe, to get a better angle for the socket to slide in. That, or try a dedicated 'spark plug' socket that's shorter than what appears to maybe be a regular deep well socket? I bet that'll make all the difference you need, especially with the narrowed area where the hex end is on the socket. That will probably allow it to slide right in there without any mods to the header flange. A quick search shows that style everywhere, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Amazon has some with a swivel end as well if you look a little. Shop from home, 'social distancing', lol https://www.amazon.com/13-16-spark-plug-socket/s?k=13+16+spark+plug+socket https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Standard-SAE-3-8-in-Drive-6-point-13-16-in-Spark-Plug-Socket/1000594061 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-13-16-in-Spark-Plug-Socket-H3DSPSKT1316/202913555 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragCat Posted April 15, 2020 Author Share Posted April 15, 2020 Thanks for the info I'll try Lowes today the web says they have 1 in stock. I have to return my buddies engine hoist and there is a Lowes down the street. I usually prefer HD but they are making people stand in line outside the store (not complaining) and I can social distance myself in the tool section with my mask and gloves. Of course I have the 5/8 specific spark plug socket lol. I think that should address the clearance, its just a bit to beefy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 I'm betting that'll solve your problem, plus it isn't too expensive either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bell Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 I have a collection of spark plug sockets, some specialty, some custom modified by me. I also have the advantage of aftermarket heads that use 5/8 drive spark plugs. My old Hooker headers made #8 impossible to get to. It looks like the ARH are better, time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1of80 Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 Some FYI. Did you know from about the late 60s on up the big block Chevy head (stock) can accept both style of spark plugs. The 13/16 with the metal gasket and the more common 5/8 tapered seat plug. Just look at the spark plugs seat to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy's Auto Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 1 hour ago, MC1of80 said: Some FYI. Did you know from about the late 60s on up the big block Chevy head (stock) can accept both style of spark plugs. The 13/16 with the metal gasket and the more common 5/8 tapered seat plug. Just look at the spark plugs seat to make sure. This is absolutely correct. Trying to figure out why the big plugs are in there in the first place. I'd put simple Delco R45TS in it. To dig out number 4, find a plug socket with the 7/8 nut on the end and wrench it out. Unless those are 65-67 big block heads, skip the big plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 On my SBC number six plug has to be loosened and tightened from the bottom side with a end wrench. Hooker headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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