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Update on rear upper control arms


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Well the the installation of the new upper rear control arms is not going well. Lucky I have a lathe, the upper metal bushings were   .016 to large in diameter. Had to turn them down. Then the rear axle rotated down and pulled the drive shaft out of the transmission. Then I had a friend come over to help. It looks like the upper arms are good but we can't push the axle forward. Looks like the parking brake cables are preventing it. So I'm going to remove them. I  need a couple days of rest before I continue. I've pulled engines easier than this job. 

 

 

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Those bushings are designed to be a press fit. There's no way I would turn them down. With the violence of suspension movement during use, it's likely those are going to work their way out during operation. In fact, when I got my current '72, one of the upper bushings wasn't fully seated.

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5 minutes ago, jft69z said:

Those bushings are designed to be a press fit. There's no way I would turn them down. With the violence of suspension movement during use, it's likely those are going to work their way out during operation. In fact, when I got my current '72, one of the upper bushings wasn't fully seated.

Super agree. The bushings are going to move now. 

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Pretty sure I put a couple of small, easily removable tack welds on there to ensure they didn't move as well. 

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49 minutes ago, jft69z said:

Pretty sure I put a couple of small, easily removable tack welds on there to ensure they didn't move as well. 

Sounds like a "Road Trip"

rob

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I don't think you guys are understanding. I made them a good press fit. They were .016 to large. there is now way in heck that you are going to press a bushing into a bore that is .016 larger than the bore. Trust me I made them a good press fit.

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I believe he has done well. Mine from UMI Performance were on the big side also. I betting you used vernier calipers or a set of Mics to see how the size was. To be correct the bores should be+/- .020" as so when you drive them in the bushing takes up the difference, hence they don't move once installed. I'm getting what he's putting down.

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Thanks James. I did use vernier and micrometers.  With the press fit I made them they aren't going to move  

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It ended up being a nice day to take it out. I really had no notice of anything in the rear end. The old bushings were really bad.  I think one time the old bushings moved and one of my exhaust pipes was rubbing on one of the old upper control arms.  So now I have boxed type control arms with grease fittings in the rear.  In the spring I'm going to new springs and control arm bushings on the front. Then my car will have all new suspension. I know the front will be easier. The rear I had to get some help. I'll let you know when I do the front.

 

 

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If you think the front will be easier than the rear you are in for a rude awakening. Be prepared, the front springs are a bear. In my opinion of course. 

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When you do the rears remove one at a time and replace with the new one. My mistake was taking them all off and the axle shifted on me. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Whons said:

When you do the rears remove one at a time and replace with the new one. My mistake was taking them all off and the axle shifted on me. 

 

 

That and having full weight on the car at the time of removal. 

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Yes, I planned on one at a time, which will be a bit of a hassle because I’m going to box them for a sway bar. It just means 2 trips to my cousin who is a certified welder. Which do you recommend doing first, the uppers or lowers?  I’m hoping the sway bar comes with templates to drill the holes so I can get the correct position of the inserts. I plan on doing the uppers one at a time also.

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I did a post in the Brakes and Suspension category looking for opinions on a couple types of bushings on Feb.1. Haven’t heard anything yet. Hope some just missed it, so I thought I’d bring it up here. 

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