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Paint and body work?


jacob

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I got a brand new paint gun yesterday its gravity feed and is low pressure has any one painted with one before.my 30 gal air compressor runs it with no problem.It was 30 dollars and so far is worth the money I love that little gun.also has any one painted there cars them selves I dont have a paint booth I was wondering how you kept the dust out of the air and off the car.

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Was it a new gun or used. I work in an automotive paint store and cheapest gun we sell is $100.54. Wee have tried cheaper guns but they all caused our customers a lot of problems and headaches for us to send back. I have painted several cars over the last 40 years and have always used a very good gun. DevilBiss JGA suction feed. The gravity feeds came out after I had quit doing my own body work.

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Those Harbor Freight and Lowes and Home Depot guns arent really too good for painting much, but it will work I suppose. As for keeping the dirt out of your paint, wet down the floor, and for god sakes please at least wear a respirator eek Explosion proof exhaust fans are a pretty good idea as well, but I can honestly say I did plenty of jobs without one of them in my past!

Larry, the old JGA gun was a great one, I still have one here at the house for the kids to spray water out of, but I use Devilbiss to this day, 6 or more paint jobs a day, and Ive had my 3 Devilbiss guns for at least 10 years now with no issues at all

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As tony said plus if your garage has a open ceiling put up plastic will keep the dust from getting on the finish paint work. Tape up anything you don't want painted. The blue painters tape has a 30 time frame after 30 days its a pain to get the glue off. A large area to lay everything out in is a good idea so you have room to walk around the items getting all the edges.

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well I got it from harbor frieght but I keep my stuff clean also our garage has a cieling.Where do you get those fans from also I have seen those resperator mask but what kind do you suggest for fumes and painting?

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I got a disposable one from the automotive body supply store. I see Harbor Freight has them also.

http://www.harborfreight.com/p95-mainten...r:referralID=NA

 

Make sure you adjust it properly. Adjust it so it is tight but not too tight. When you think you have a good seal, cover both cartridges at the same time with the palm of your hands and inhale. If air goes by the rubber mask it needs to be tighter

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I did mine in my garage. The day before I blew all the dust off the flat surfaces like the tops of the lights and the beam that runs down the center than ran fans for a couple hours. The day I painted it I wet down the walls and floor and shot it in the morning (less chance for bugs) It didnt come out bad for my first time with b/c c/c its far from perfect but looks good from 15 feet or so. Good luck.

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Wow I will try that with my gun and I adjusted it so it its tight but not to tight and I messed with the how much paint it uses.My grand dad said the same thing about wetting the floor down I was also told that wet sanding would help with the the dust in the clear coat has any one tryed it?

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Hey Jacob, I did some of my own painting many years ago and wetting down the whole inside of the garage with a garden hose before bringing the car in worked well for me. Once you are finished shooting the car, bring only what you need to address like the gun and open paint outside with you, shut the door and don't enter again for several hours until you figure the paint is dry. Every spec of dust is your enemy and this procedure will go a long way in giving you a better finished product.

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As mentioned by others, all good tips. I once painted a car in my garage. The paint was very outdoor friendly and had a faster drying time which minimizes dust trapping. The room temperature will also affect your drying time so take that into consideration.

 

Good luck

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes I have wet sanded before I like it alot am getting my dads tuck ready for priming and painting. And I just got a new book on auto painting so I will be good to go. By the way before I go prime this thing is there any tips Ishould know? And it might be a few days before I write back computer died.

 

computer rest in peace I will not miss you

 

 

 

Jacob

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3M makes a good disposable one I think there around 20 bucks or so the one I used worked great.

 

Are they certified against isocyanates?

Also, that stuff can get into you through the skin or eyes...

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Originally Posted By: cny first gen 71
3M makes a good disposable one I think there around 20 bucks or so the one I used worked great.

 

Are they certified against isocyanates?

Also, that stuff can get into you through the skin or eyes...

 

ditto I second that.

I have one that is specifically designed for this purpose or is one of the things it will work (isocyanates).

It has replaceable cartridges which you should change it recommends after a painting session. When I did my bike a while back I had it and a disposable painters coveralls that covered head as well and had the mask and eye protection.

Looked like on of those guys that does the asbestos removal, but didn't want to take a chance. It was HOT and uncomfortable but did the trick. I think for that and decent gloves (again that will not leach) like mechanics blue nitrite gloves. Total on this safety I spent about 100.00 and got the respirator on sale with 2 extra cartridges.

Even if you don't need it better to have this set-up and not risk it.... nutz

 

Scott

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Gerson also makes an acceptable respirator. We sell about a case a week of those. They are less than $21 each. They will also last longer if you keep them in their zip lock bag and in the refrigerator. I have kept mine useable for up to a year by using this method.

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I painted a car using PPG 2-stage urethane back in 1995. The color coats didn't have isocyanates, but all but one clear coat did. Fresh air respirators where required for isocyanates. PPG NCT Clear did not have them and only required an auto paint face mask filter. I will be painting my Monte next couple years and hope to find a replacement urethane clear without isocyanates.

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Wow Is the black monte the that was painted if so it looks wonderfull! I hope you find the perefect paint for it and it turns out looking like the show car I could only dream of. Jacob

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  • 1 month later...

What type of bondo should I use Or should I not even use bondo and go for welding a new piece of metal in? I am not using bondo right now but there are so many kinds and I thought I would ask.

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The brand of Bondo is your choice. I have found the cheap Bondo Brand bondo to be a pain to sand. I hear lots of good things about Rage or some of the other higher end fillers. I have been using one of the in between brands to off set the cost. I can't remember the brand right now...

 

Please, DO NOT use Bondo to fill in rust holes! You will hate yourself. The rust will continue and start bubling in a few months to a year or two most likely and then when you fix it again you will have a biger hole to fix. Go ahead and weld in fresh metal. It is the only way to get rid of the rust.

 

Then use an epoxy primer and your filler (Bondo). Some say use the filler first then epoxy, some say epoxy, filler, another coat of epoxy then a high build 2K primer, the choice is yours. The epoxy primer is suppose to be the best out right now to prevent rust. Try to use the thinest coats of filler you can. You can get the metal straight with out filler but I have no where near mastered the art of metal work to that extent. But I have watched you-tube videos of people that can.. It's pretty amazing.

 

I am no pro just a guy that is trying to bring mine back from the dead and have been trying to do it right this time. My $0.02.

 

Steve

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On bare metal an etch primer is the best. It bites into the metal and makes adhesion of all toppers last longer. Epoxy primer is really good if the vehicle will be exposed to any kind of weather or going to sit a long time before finishing. Bondo can be applied over the etch primer with no problems that we have found at the automotive paint store.

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