Murphy Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 When I begin my 4-speed conversion, I planning on replacing the oil pan gasket, since I'm not planning to remove the engine (possibly jack it up some) should I use a 1 piece gasket? It obviously costs more, but thinking about installation might be easier...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 That is definitely the way to go. You'll need to get the longer oil pan bolts as this gasket is thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Excellant! Thanks......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtankjones Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 FelPro is the way to go for the one piece gasket. The one I bought had 4 plastic alignment pins that screwed into the 4 corners of the engine to hold the gasket in place while I installed the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 used the felpro on my sons truck and it went in great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vince Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I recently replaced my old dented oil pan cause it was leaking around the drain plug and it was ugly. I used the Felpro one piece and now it has a small/ very small drip at the bottom of the crank. In this case it's probable the installers fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 In this case it's probable the installers fault. Not my fault this time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Vince, which oil pan did you go with? A stock replacement pan or something different............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 That is definitely the way to go. You'll need to get the longer oil pan bolts as this gasket is thicker. Looking things over in preparation for lifting the motor as I'm starting my 4-speed conversion, doesn't look like I have much play with the power steering hoses, how high am I going to need to lift the motor to remove the oil pan? And the oil pan bolts, what a half inch longer bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I would try to find a stock original pan, the aftermarket one I bought, I had trouble with some of the bolt holes lining up, had to tweek! some of them you will have to turn the crank so the counterweights are up to give you clearance to slide the pan back, having the flywheel/trans/starter out will help a bunch too the oil pan bolts should only need to be a 1/4" longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Thanks Sam....what about lifting the motor & the power steering hose situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 worst case, unbolt the pump and lay it off to the side, I didn't have to take mine off when I did this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 OK, I guess once I get the pan loose, crank positioned correctly, the height needed to get the pan out is apparently minimal. Also, I'm not replacing the pan, mine's in good shape, just need to paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 if you have the trans out while trying to do this, you won't be able to jack up the engine, also remove the engine fan, you will have to use a engine hoist/cherry picker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Correct, I realize that. My nephew has a cherry picker that he's bringing to help with this gasket replacement. I was going to loosen up the fan shroud vs the fan.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Also be careful at the distributor so it doesn't hit the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 When I bought the Felpro gasket last week at O'Rielley's another customer mentioned that I should use an RTV sealant also around the rear main seal area. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I think that is excellent advise! The Rear Mains in particular are most problematic for leakage. Applying a good sealant on Main Seal contact surfaces greatly reduces risk. Just ensure all possible exits are covered & overlap joints. Perform same with Front Main Seals. Taking extra care will give you good security from future problems and follow instructions on sealant tube for best results. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Absolutely NOT. If you have a one piece Felpro oil pan gasket, you are NOT to use any sealant. I've done three of these installs and no leaks and I didn't use any RTV, etc. Even the instrustions/felpro state "no sealant". Sealant on the rear main seal, of course, yes. Just nothing on the oil pan gasket. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I used this gasket many times too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIL' Mac Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Speaking of rear main seal, if it is old I would pull that rear cap and do it. I assume it is a two piece seal(pre '87). It will be right there, and so much easier with the trans out. If there is any age on it, now is the time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 On no sealant and replacing rear main while you are right there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 HEY MURPH! I think that snowball is starting to move! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 AARRRR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CKZ03 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 These guys got me confused now. I'm about to do the same oil pan gasket change and some say use longer bolts and some say no silicone. My kit came with what I would guess are longer bolts included and the instructions say to use sealant in designated areas. Follow the instructions or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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