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There is usually some fine-tuning of linkage when doing a carb swap. The new carbs are sort of "universal" and may not be exactly the way you are used to. I am putting together a small block right now with that same carb, and the relation of the throttle to the kickdown is a bit different than GM carbs had. It would seem that the linkage attachment points on the new carb are a bit closer together than on the original carb...(more compact, if you will)...and it messes with the cable travel on both the throttle and the kickdown. You can start by loosening the bolt on the back of the carb that also holds down the throttle cable bracket, and doing your best to rotate that bracket as far rearward as it will go to eliminate some of the cable slack. I had to modify my bracket a bit to get a good fit, so maybe a new bracket would be better to experiment with...rather than messing with the bracket you have? I also made myself a bushing that goes in the large hole where you presently have your return spring, so I can mount my cable connection there. A washer or 2 of the correct outer diameter might fill that hole like a thin bushing. With a larger washer on both sides to sandwich the bushing in place, you can mount your throttle connection pin through it all to hold the whole mess together.. So the idea is to move the cable connection point forward, and the cable housing mount rearward. Once you have that set up to your liking, the trans kickdown can be hooked up and adjusted. My setup was good, but it didn't pull the kickdown cable far enough. The plastic clip used for cable adjustment has plenty of travel to make the cable longer, but limited travel for making it shorter. I had to enlarge the holes in the bracket that bolts to the rear of the intake so I could move that bracket a bit further rearward to make my cable a bit shorter. Adjustment of the kickdown is simple...Lift the plastic clip on your cable adjustment. Open the choke on your carb with your finger, and with the other hand open the throttle fully. While holding the throttle fully open, push the cable plastic clip back down to lock it in place. (it will snap when it seats fully) The cable adjustment should be correct then. There should be a tiny gap between the pin on the carb and the end of the long slot on the cable end....you want to achieve full throttle just before the cable reaches full extension, but you also want the cable to be pulled as far as possible without hindering the carb movement.

I'll miss you buddy! Not the news I wanted Donny to call and tell me today!

Hey everyone! My name is Kade. I recently took full ownership of a 72 Monte Carlo that has been in the family since my Grandpa rolled it off the dealership lot. I learned how to drive with this car many years ago and fell in love with this car when I was just a kid and my grandpa decided it was time to officially give me the keys. Over the years I’ve been taking care of it and adding upgraded parts to it. Nothing huge but enough to keep her alive and rolling for years to come. I’m excited to be a part of a group who’s member have so much knowledge about these cars!

I am so sorry to report that long time club member Jim Crockett has passed away. From what I have learned from a friend of his, Jim was recovering from a recent stroke. Jim fell down some steps and hit his head and was placed on life support and was not able to recover. As soon as I find out any details on arrangements I will pass them on along with an address where sympathy cards can be sent. You may remember, Jim's wife passed away very recently. Please keep Jim's family in your thoughts and prayers. Jim was a wonderful person with a big heart. Jim had invited us to stay with him at his house for the Eastern Meet this August. Jim and his son Aaron are our clubs Tax People. God Bless You Jim. Rob

Poured 30 yards of concrete today. They were short a guy, so I had to drive the concrete buggy, (could have been put on a worse job), lol. Then spent the day behind a shovel getting the next pad ready to pour later in the week hopefully. Once they set the forms, I had to remove some stone and a bit more clay we found to get it to the proper grade for another 6" pad in front of the building. Gonna saw cut the lines on the new pad in a couple more hours.

It’s like sweatpants. One size fits all. Lol

I would get 8" wide wheels with a 4.25" or 4.5" backspace to center the wheel in the wheel well. Corvette wheels typically cause issues unless the car is raised. Wheel Vintiques and Jegs have rally wheels available, Wheel Vintiques in 4.5" backspacing and Jegs in 4.25" backspacing (but also a dual bolt pattern).

I'm also a fan of the ViKing front coil overs. I have the dual adjustable fronts on my Chevelle and they are great. Made in the US (Minnesota) and the best value out there. Give them a call, they are great to work with and will set you up with what you need. If I put a big block in my Monte, it will be a no-brainer to swap out to ViKing coil-overs as part of the project. Let us know what you do. Scott

I have the Viking coil overs on all four corners. I bought mine directly from viking they were great to deal with... The main thing you can adjust the height of the car bottom line. You can do that with coil springs to a point but thats a PITA and you can't change it back to and forth or readjust. You can use the coil over from viking with stock control arms if you want. The rears bring the bottom shock mounts inward to the dif about 1.5 inches on each side . Thats good for getting a fatter tire back there. That was a bonus I did not know about. I run 245/60-15 in front and 295/50/15 in back. good luck

Well I FINALLY made it to the track last night lol, gawd its taken forever. Was having fun, made a few passes and was playing with air pressure on the drag radials as I was spinning off the line. Last pass Monte died after the burnout, had to get pushed back off the track. Something in the trans arena went south, console shifter is all out of whack. Park is in gear, couldn't find neutral to idle the car, and wherever reverse is the car instantly dies. Also no matter where the shifter is car rolls freely. Pretty much had to power brake (lack of better wording) the Monte back onto the trailer. Now THAT was fun! Oh well at least it doesn't seem catastrophic, no huge puddle of ATF but my planned fun race weekend just turned into work and repair lol. I'm sure I'll post a thread after I crawl under the car and nothing is blatantly obvious.